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Well im in the progress of re-welding my trunk/ frame rail back in on my 65 coupe i completely cut the floor and half the frame rail(rear) on the drivers side out. before cutting i took a bunch of measurement hoping to get it back where it was. Long story short roof leaked on my papers and my father tossed em in the trash. Now here i am with a new floor in place and no measurements to figure where my frame rail goes! :: Now i plan to race the car a bit and am worryng about wheel hop so i sorta need my geometry correct.
Is there a specific measurement between the leaf spring eyes i can take and mock the assembly up? Any other ideas? The passenger side is still fully intact if that helps. Any help would be greatly appreciated. ::
 

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Is the original rear cross brace under the tail light panel still in place? If so, you should be able to line up to that using the old spot welds.

Sorry, don't have measurement from frame rail to frame rail back there.

Ken
 
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Yes its still there good idea. only thing is how percise does it have to be if its a little off think it would make a huge difference? ::
 

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Good question ::

This was the method I used when replacing my PS rear frame rail extension and have had no problems so far.

I don't know that 1/4" too wide or too narrow is going to mess things up too much at the spring plates. Any minor rearward placement will be compensated by the shackle. But with the cross member still in place that shouldn't even be an issue.
 

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Use your gas tank.
Attach the left and right trunk floors to the tank.
Line up with the front of the trunk floor and bolt in.
That pretty well lines up the trunk floors.
Now peer through the trunk floor access holes in the rear. They're fairly well centered on the frame rails.
Take the bumper brackets and attach them to the bumper.
Clamp onto rear and that will tell you where the frame rails need to be, because the bumper brackets attach to the frame rail through the trunk floor.
I second using the rear crossmember as a line up help.
I also use the tailight panel.
Also, get your rear valence and make sure it lines up quarter to quarter (that's your width).

Use Teco screws to hold all of this together prior to doing any welding. If this doesn't fit using screws, back up and see why.
 

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DO NOT depend on the shackels to take up the forward/backward distance... if you are off, one side of your car will sit lower than the other. of course, 1/16 of an inch is not going to be noticeable, but if you are off by 3/4ths of an inch, your gona have a lopsided car.
good luck on getting it all back together!

- Jason
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for all the help fellas! I managed to find the original frame i cut out so i just tacked it back in place and took my measurement s over. :: What a relief!
 
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