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Discussion Starter #1
Just got my steering box back from chockostang (looks great). I knew there was a problem when I took it the steering box out as one of the bolts broke because it was rusted to a thread. What I didn’t notice until reinstalling was a portion of that frame area is rusted through on the bottom of rail. It’s about a 2” hole! If my rusted portion is just this 2” hole, am I damaging or bending the frame.?
 

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Just got my steering box back from chockostang (looks great). I knew there was a problem when I took it the steering box out as one of the bolts broke because it was rusted to a thread. What I didn’t notice until reinstalling was a portion of that frame area is rusted through on the bottom of rail. It’s about a 2” hole! If my rusted portion is just this 2” hole, am I damaging or bending the frame.?
The question you should be asking yourself is why you are installing the steering box over known rot? Take a day or two, cut out the rotted area, weld in a patch of good metal, grind and paint, then reinstall the steering box.
 

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I'd be a bit hesitant about bolting a steering box back to a rotted subframe rail. Perhaps now is the time to cut out the bad section and weld in a repair? If it were me, I'd use 2 pieces for the repair, one shaped like a "C" with the steering box piece containing "tabs" to weld inside the existing subframe rail and the piece opposite the steering box used as a "cover". I'd also weld some "anti-crush" tubes to the plate.
 

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If its just 2 sides, you can patch that without engine and suspension removal...but 3 sides(think I can see through one area) its certainly better to unload the front end as much as possible
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It is 3 sides. I agree, I want to take off as much weight as possible. Before I remove anything I’m going to do some measurements.
 

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Make sure you remove all the bad metal and not just the holes.
 

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If its just 2 sides, you can patch that without engine and suspension removal...but 3 sides(think I can see through one area) its certainly better to unload the front end as much as possible
The other option is just to patch one side at a time...saves you the effort of pulling the engine(not that its much effort in these cars)
 

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Is the baseline in this page from the manual the bottom edge of the body?
No. It's the same as a datum line, where all vertical measurements are taken. As long as all measurements have the same difference of the listed numbers, you can add or subtract 2 or 20 inches to the numbers in the drawing.

The crush tubes are a nice touch Bart.
The OP will find factory installed crush tubes in his rails when he removes the rusted metal. But it's a very good reminder.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Found more rot forward on the frame rail extensions when I pulled the radiator. I know the last owner did zero work on this car. It’s the guy before him that used cake frosting and undercoating to hide rot. I did not expect this car to be rust free, but it’s frustrating (as we all know) to find more and more problems that are a Must Fix. 😩
736274
736275
 

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If it's that rusted right there on the inside you should take your bumper supports off and check the outside of that area. The metal there is probably shot too.

Not trying to pile on to your list of projects, just speaking from experience.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
If it's that rusted right there on the inside you should take your bumper supports off and check the outside of that area. The metal there is probably shot too.

Not trying to pile on to your list of projects, just speaking from experience.
Yeah, as soon as I get the engine out I will be “peeling back” the front end. Good thing I’m taking a welding class 😂
 

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Disappointing to find that people really do that. My first car in high school was a 68 Mustang Coupe. It had a fresh paint job and looked pretty darn good. Not knowing what I know now we did not inspect thoroughly. Within 8 months I had bubbling on the lower rear quarter panels. Decided to take a big wire wheel to it one weekend. Found out there was about an inch of bondo spread over completely rusted quarter panels. Turned out the back of the front fenders were the same. They basically took a rusted car, did no body work, and slapped on bondo and paint. And that was the beginning of my learning curve. I tried stick welding sheet metal because that was the only welder available to me and that succeeded in only blowing large holes in the body panels. I ended up using galvanized sheet metal and pop rivets and bondo. it was quite the hack job but it looked pretty darn good for a number of years before the rest of the car rusted apart including the front frame members.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I had a 67, one owner before me. At 16, I became the guy we are complaining about. I used rivets and bondo to fix minor rust. That’s all I had for my budget at the time.
Initially I was considering stick welding frame rails with 3/32 rod. From research I have done, It is doable. MiG will be much easier. The class I’m taking is covering stick, mig,tig and oxygen acetylene.
 

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Surprise!!!! That sux..I would just get a lower rail assy from NPD to test out your new welding skills. Better get a tetanus booster as well, I see more rust repairs in your future. While your at it, might as well get a z-ray cross member and a good export brace, do the shelby drop, send the gear box to chock for a rebuild, etc etc etc...sigh :)
 
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