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Hi , I'm first time user of this forum . I hope someone can help . I've recently had , amongst other things , a front disc brake conversion done to my 1966 stock 289 Mustang Convertible in California . The problem is that even with extended bolts the wheel rims now apparently snag with the callipers . Does anyone have an any recommendations as to how to fix the problem ? I'd be very grateful .
 

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It doesn't sound like the shop installed the correct Kelsey Hayes style disc brakes that were the factory disc brake option.
 

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Can you provide more information about the brake setup? Which parts are used? Pictures might also help.


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Hi , I'm first time user of this forum . I hope someone can help . I've recently had , amongst other things , a front disc brake conversion done to my 1966 stock 289 Mustang Convertible in California . The problem is that even with extended bolts the wheel rims now apparently snag with the callipers . Does anyone have an any recommendations as to how to fix the problem ? I'd be very grateful .
Welcome to the board!

Who did the work and what are they saying?

That’s where I’d start.
 

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A local garage in Salinas , not a Mustang Specialist , but a very competent and caring mechanic . He's telling me only that the wheel rims are snagging and either I need different sized wheels or possibly spacers but the wheels are already sticking out with extended bolts ...... I'll try and get him to take pictures and get back to you . Thanks .
 

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Are you currently using adapters or spacers on the wheels now?
 

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Well , all I can ascertain from this distance ( the mechanic is in California , I'm in London ! ) , is that he's used longer bolts , not spacers , as part of the conversion to try and distance the wheel rim from the callipers but I'll try and get you pictures . Really appreciate your concern .
 

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A lot of aftermarket Disc brake conversions require bigger then stock rims. Usually 16" or bigger. What size rims are on your Mustang? If the stock 14" rims then you should have stuck with he Kelsey Hayes disc conversion or get larger rims.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
5 lug 15x7's on the front and 15x8's on the back I believe . I'll ask the guy to look at fitting 16's all round . Thanks .
 

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Well , all I can ascertain from this distance ( the mechanic is in California , I'm in London ! ) , is that he's used longer bolts , not spacers , as part of the conversion to try and distance the wheel rim from the callipers but I'll try and get you pictures . Really appreciate your concern .
This board is Great!
 

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Did the mechanic say where the wheel was snagging? Meaning if the wheel is hitting the top of the caliper, then the wheel may be too small of a diameter. If the wheel is hitting the front of the caliper, then the wheel off set is wrong. Two completely different issues with different solutions. You need to find out before spending more money on a solution that will not work.
 

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wow, confusion abounds
The OP has been on here with 2 different accounts dealing with a car 3400 miles away from there location
How about some pics , part numbers , or at least some clue as to what these extend bolts are ???????????
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thank you for the suggestions / advice . Much appreciated . I'll try and get photos to post and find out whereabouts on the callipers the wheel is snagging .
 

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Thank you for the suggestions / advice . Much appreciated . I'll try and get photos to post and find out whereabouts on the callipers the wheel is snagging .
Thank you for the suggestions / advice . Much appreciated . I'll try and get photos to post and find out whereabouts on the callipers the wheel is snagging .
When I put Kelsey Hayes replicas on my 69 with factory 14" rims, the calipers slightly touched the rim center section by the wheel hoop on some locations. I turned the wheels slowly by hand and let the caliper scrape those areas and mark them for me, then I ground those areas of the center section a little bit and it has been fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
While I'm still waiting photos my daughter tells me the " the tyre of the wheel rubs the fender ( she means front wing ) when turning " .... that would surely infer the wheels are mounted too far out ?
Again , they're standard 15 x 7 wheels on Coker red line tyres ... just seems odd . Car is driving and braking - but only in a straight line !!
 

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it could be a problem with backspacing of the rim...putting the rim too far out....

OR

it could be that the alignment process has the front knuckle pulled too far forward in the wheel well. This will cause the tire to rub the fender, especially when turning...it could be an alignment problem...wheel is not centered in the wheel well due to the strut rod pulling the tire forward. PICS will help....but I am only guessing here.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So , pics finally here ... gap on passenger side between wheel and bodywork ( right ) is fine , drivers side not so much ! What's gone wrong ? Any idea's ? Thanks , Andy

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Yes, as in my post above...your strut rod adjustment has pulled the tire forward. This happens when trying to get more caster when doing an alignment. That is why aftermarket A arms, and strut rods are popular. They address shortcomings in factory parts. This also happens if your parts are worn and most cars suffer from that. To fix you can add shims to upper A-Arm, specifically the front bolt. That will allow you to pull that tire more towards the center of wheel well, but that would be AFTER verifying all parts are in good working condition, and doing a proper alignment . Most alignment shops cannot perform this type of alignment on our cars. Did your shop do an alignment for you?
 
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