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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 69 coupe with non-power 4 wheel drum brakes. A local person around here (Bay Area) has a power front disc set up from a 68 stang for sale. My question is, will this work with the spindles I have? I want to keep the non power set up. Do I need a different master cylinder than what I already have on my 69? I there a difference between the power-non/ power proportioning valve? Any help would be great, I want to jump on this deal ASAP.
 
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Since no one else has posted I thought I would through a little of the info I have as I did kinda the opposite thing. I took stock disk brake parts that were originally on a 70 mach 1 and put them on my 67.

Proportioning valve will need to be changed. My suggestion is to use an aftermarket adjustable one. Its just so much simpler.

Mastercylinder. You will need one for a disk brake car.

Pedals, you will need to convert the pedal to one from a disk car if I am correct (this is necessary for 67/68s).

Another option is to go with nonpower disks and use the 73 non power DB MC from a maverick. This will bolt right in, but will require some brake lines to be made to get the fittings to work. (I went this route because I didn't want to pony up the cost of the new power booster, mine works really nice with the manual disks)

The spindles from the 70 bolted right up to my 67, I would guess the 68 will bolt up to your 69. You will need to use the tie rod ends from the car the spindles came from.
(I cannot tell if you are asking if the spindles on your car will work with the disk brake stuff, but that answer is no. You will need to change the spindles over)

Wheel fitment is not a problem in this swap (65-66 cars rims will not bolt up because of clearance issues)
 

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68/69 were the same size bearings for discs. 70+ were the larger bearings and both are bolt-ins. If you can get the 68 set-up, see if it comes with the distribution block and proportioning valve. Otherwise, the adjustable is a good replacement. The 74 Mav M/cyl is a bolt-in. I'm not sure about the brake pedal. If you go 68, you won't have to change the tie rods. Forget rears. There isn't enough to justify a $1000 rear brake job. As was said, the drums are fine for this car.
 

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I do not know if I am too late however some of the info you have gotten conflicts with the info I have. The disc brake setup from 68 is identical to the 69 disc setup. In 68 ford started using different spindles for disc brake cars. The caliper mount is integrated into the spindle. So for you to use the 68 discs you will need a 68 or 69 disc brake spindle. You will need a proportioning valve and master cylinder from a front disc rear drum car. The 74 maverick master will fit and bolt up perfectly. You will need to use the pushrod from your 69. The prop valve can be an adjustable one from summit for around $40 bucks in conjuntion with your original distribution block. Or you can find a prop valve for a disc brake car like a mid 70's granada/monarch/comet/maverick. The 68's and IIRC also 69 do not have a combination prop/distribution block. They just have a distribution block. Then the prop valve (a seperate valve) is actually mounted in the rear line back towards the axle. If you want to go with power you will need a different pedal assembly. Since you want non-power you can use your existing pedal setup. Hope that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for everyones great info. I have just one more question then I think I will have this under control. I have also done the rear disc conversion, what master cylinder can I use? Can I still use the front disc 74' mavrick with my push rod or should I use a Granada of some sort? Thanks again.
 

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I thought your name looked familar. You put an 8.8 inch rear with discs in your stang right? The master of choice for that scenario is from a (not 100% on the years) 84-86 mustang svo. Those turbo cars had four wheel discs. Now a question for you. How did you remove the mounts on the 8.8 rear? Did you torch them off? I am looking at getting an explorer 8.8 rear end with discs for my 68 and I will have to move the spring perchs so I am interested in how you did that. Also mustangsplus sells a master for disc/disc setups. It is about $90. I assume the svo master is cheaper. Let me know what you find.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yep thats me, I had to cut off all of the 8.8 mounts with air cutting wheel. It took a while, but by doing it like that I had more precision to my cuts. I think a torch might be a bit much. You will only have to remove the old perches so it shouldn't be as bad as my rear. I had to remove all the suspension mounting points and quad shock attachments. I bought new spring perches from a local 4x4 place. I have also seen the exact same perches for sale in JEGS for $20 I think. (they are Mopar perches) You may not need this info but..... I also have done a T-5 conversion so I had to change the drive shaft as well. I originally wanted to shorten my 69 shaft and put the late model ends on it but the drive shaft shop thought it would be better to just make the late model shaft longer. It seems to work great (as far as I can tell on a car with no brakes). What are you doing for a drive shaft?

Thanks for your help.
 

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I too will be doing a t-5 swap. The driveshaft is one of those things I had thought about but....I wasn't really concerning myself with at this point in time. But I think what your driveshaft guy said actually makes a lot of sense. I still have to rebuild my t-5 and find a usable rear that isn't $1000 dollars. Thanks for the advice. I'm sure I will have some questions this winter when the sparks start flying.
 
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