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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I havent driven my mustang in probably 4 years. Lots of reasons. But lets not get into that.

The front suspension needs rebuilt. I just plan to replace the stock parts with stock type parts for now.
It needs lowered but I haven't decided on a wheel tire setup and I don't want to lower it until I know that answer.

CJ pony parts has a basic rebuild kit for about $450
I pieced together the same setup on rockauto for about the same price, but it's all moog parts.

Which route would you take? Why?

Link to CJ's kit

I have read a ton of posts on kits here and they've all been over the top for what I need at this point.
 

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1966 Mustang GT 4spd
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1. Opentracker Racing
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3. Forum Supporting Vendor
Agreed! And now is the time to do the arning drop which is FOC(free of charge) :)

Chris
 

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I generally don't buy stock replacement parts from restoration parts dealers and CJ has a reputation for some of the worst customer service. You can spend much less, be guaranteed of what you are actually getting, and have less issues with after sales service by getting these type of parts from an actual auto parts vendor. I threw together a quick cart of the parts required on the Rock Auto website, and it's about $200 less, even with using Moog parts as available. That CJ's kit comes up as $555 for me. You can save even more if you use other brands.

Opentracker makes great stuff, but if you're just looking for stock replacement items on a budget, he's not your guy.


789723
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
1. Opentracker Racing
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As I said, I reviewed the threads. I just want to drive it this summer, and the open tracker stuff is not in the budget.
My mustang and I have a love-hate relationship. Mostly hate. But the car is a family heirloom that I hold onto.

Hemikiller
That setup you posted in rockauto is basically what I have, but I added shocks, sway bar end links and an idler arm.

I think I'll just go that route.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Agreed! And now is the time to do the arning drop which is FOC(free of charge) :)

Chris
With the wheels and tires on the car I can't currently lower it. It was lowered previously and the tires contacted the fenders.
I just want to get it running and drive it. I will work on wheels/tires and lowering it this fall.
 

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1966 Mustang Coupe, 289 4V, A-Code
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++ for Opentracker - I decided to might as well go all in (but not overboard) on front suspension 'rebuild.' Got the package I wanted that included the most parts you have but went for the roller perches, bilsteins, z-ray crossmember, etc. since I plan on enjoying driving the heck out my 66 coupe knowing handling will be much better than when it came out of the factory.
 

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I havent driven my mustang in probably 4 years. Lots of reasons. But lets not get into that.

The front suspension needs rebuilt. I just plan to replace the stock parts with stock type parts for now.
It needs lowered but I haven't decided on a wheel tire setup and I don't want to lower it until I know that answer.

CJ pony parts has a basic rebuild kit for about $450
I pieced together the same setup on rockauto for about the same price, but it's all moog parts.

Which route would you take? Why?

Link to CJ's kit

I have read a ton of posts on kits here and they've all been over the top for what I need at this point.
PST is another very good source (Performance Suspension Technologies).... but,

IMHO, I have rebuilt several on my cars over the past 30+ years, and regardless of what a mfg may publish in their PR materials..........

1) I always stick with a name brand name brand (MOOG, MC, TRW, AC DELCO, etc.)

2) Each will have 2-3 lines of parts (grade wise) and I always use "Professional Grade" (some have different terminology)

3) Avoid the use of "Thermoplastic" at all costs!!!!!!

With this in mind, I have never had any issues with durability (typically 15+ years) , alignment, etc.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
+1 great guy to work with
when I decided to lower the car and such I will definitely go that route as I have checked out their parts. I just finished round two of a massive build on my lightning(20k in the last year)
and I acquired a 66 F100 for my daughter that we are building. So I have to spend wisely.
 
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Opentracker has many options for rebuilds. At least give him a call and see what he has in your price range. All of the reasons given are worth the time to check them out.

Rusty
 

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Most kits are usually thrown together for maximum profit disregarding the quality of the components often containing stuff not needed that you still have to pay for.
You can "roll" your own from places like Rock Auto and get quality parts at a discount.
 
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when I decided to lower the car and such I will definitely go that route as I have checked out their parts. I just finished round two of a massive build on my lightning(20k in the last year)
and I acquired a 66 F100 for my daughter that we are building. So I have to spend wisely.
Opentracker has many options for rebuilds. At least give him a call and see what he has in your price range. All of the reasons given are worth the time to check them out.
Rusty
I agree, at least give him a call. No harm no foul. Too if you are going to do the arning drop, now is the time. Its a lot easier changing springs to lower it later than to pull the control arm off again, drill the holes and reassemble.

Chris
 

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when I decided to lower the car and such I will definitely go that route as I have checked out their parts. I just finished round two of a massive build on my lightning(20k in the last year)
and I acquired a 66 F100 for my daughter that we are building. So I have to spend wisely.

The Arning / Shelby drop doesn't "lower" the car, its a geometry change for performance and handling, not cosmetics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The Arning / Shelby drop doesn't "lower" the car, its a geometry change for performance and handling, not cosmetics.
It was on the car prior. The wheels hit the fenders. It is off the car now, and they don't touch. So regardless of what it does, it caused damage. I don't have a good wheel and tire setup on the car now, but I figure I will drive the car for the summer and deal with lowering and wheels and tires


I agree, at least give him a call. No harm no foul. Too if you are going to do the arning drop, now is the time. Its a lot easier changing springs to lower it later than to pull the control arm off again, drill the holes and reassemble.

Chris
See above. The wholes are already drilled. I actually removed the drop from the car.

Let me see if I can dig up before and after pictures.

Here is the fender gap with the shelby drop on.


789806



Here you can see where the tire hit the fender
789807


Here is the car after the drop was removed. So whether it lowers it or not, it raised the car when I removed it.
789808


Here is how the car sits now. I have smaller tires on the front than in that picture.
789809


Again, I have no desire to spend any serious money right now. I just want to get the car so I can drive it. It's been sitting in the corner of my shop on dollies for 4 years.

This fall the car is getting torn down so I can rebuild the T5, add heads to the roller motor that is in the car and add holley sniper EFI. So I don't mind a little extra work like adding a drop kit.
I am semi retired and have all the time in the world.
 

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It was on the car prior. The wheels hit the fenders. It is off the car now, and they don't touch. So regardless of what it does, it caused damage. I don't have a good wheel and tire setup on the car now, but I figure I will drive the car for the summer and deal with lowering and wheels and tires




See above. The wholes are already drilled. I actually removed the drop from the car.

Let me see if I can dig up before and after pictures.

Here is the fender gap with the shelby drop on.


View attachment 789806


Here you can see where the tire hit the fender
View attachment 789807

Here is the car after the drop was removed. So whether it lowers it or not, it raised the car when I removed it.
View attachment 789808

Here is how the car sits now. I have smaller tires on the front than in that picture.
View attachment 789809

Again, I have no desire to spend any serious money right now. I just want to get the car so I can drive it. It's been sitting in the corner of my shop on dollies for 4 years.

This fall the car is getting torn down so I can rebuild the T5, add heads to the roller motor that is in the car and add holley sniper EFI. So I don't mind a little extra work like adding a drop kit.
I am semi retired and have all the time in the world.
Not at all questioning your knowledge, just wanting to make sure you know what the Arning Drop is. You say you removed it is the only reason I ask.

To be clear, you do know what it is, correct?

Good looking ride btw...

Allen
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Not at all questioning your knowledge, just wanting to make sure you know what the Arning Drop is. You say you removed it is the only reason I ask.

To be clear, you do know what it is, correct?

Good looking ride btw...

Allen

Yes, its a setup that moves the mounting point of the upper arms.
 
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