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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Not at all questioning your knowledge, just wanting to make sure you know what the Arning Drop is. You say you removed it is the only reason I ask.

To be clear, you do know what it is, correct?

Good looking ride btw...

Allen
Here, I just took this. You can see where the holes are.
Everything I've read says it drops the car .5-1"

789812
 
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
++ for Opentracker - I decided to might as well go all in (but not overboard) on front suspension 'rebuild.' Got the package I wanted that included the most parts you have but went for the roller perches, bilsteins, z-ray crossmember, etc. since I plan on enjoying driving the heck out my 66 coupe knowing handling will be much better than when it came out of the factory.
I don't want to go all out. I know this sounds dumb, but I don't like the car.
My grandmother bought it in 1969. My dad and I pulled it out of storage in 2007 and restored it.
In 2014 he died before the car was ever driven. So I inherited. I am terrified of the car. Its irreplaceable.
Its nerve racking to drive and I get zero enjoyment.
I basically just want it running and driving so I can move it out of the shop, drive it once in a while to pick my kids up from school and maybe the occasional weekend meet.
I have another restoration project on my hands already and a 700hp truck that is my real toy.
 
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Here, I just took this. You can see where the holes are.
Everything I've read says it drops the car .5-1"

View attachment 789812
I've read ~5/8" so yeah, we're in agreement. Your car looks like the front wheels are greater than 1" off the fender. Is that an illusion?

I'm not pushing into the drop, just trying to help you figure out what's going on.

Sounds like you have a few projects to keep you busy. Good luck on this one and your daughters as well.

Allen
 

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Rebuilding with stock components is fine.

Just make sure that is what you want so that you dont buy a bunch of parts then decide you want something else.

Careful shopping will get you the best prices.

I just bought new shocks for my motorhome, they run $114 ea. I found one of them on ebay from a reseller for $74 shipped, I saved $40. The shock arrived and it is no different than the other shock that I paid $114 for.

That car has been in the family for a long time, maybe a cousin or one of the kids may want it one day.
 

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There is also the WHOOPS I bought too much Store.

Post in the WANTED ads here, and you MAY find a good chunk of what you need for less.

For example, I have a set of coil spring saddles and insulators, person paid $60 for them, still in the bags, never used, and will not be used.

I would be happy to get $30 out of them. There are other new parts, not going to be used, out in the shop. I dare say there is a lot of that hanging around if you ask, you could get new parts for a fraction of paying new part prices,
 

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1967 fastback Mustang 289 to hipo specs with fitech, 4r70w auto, Shelby drop.
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I think you are on the right track with all things considered. Sounds like you don't want to fuss with the ride height issue right now, and that might be smart. I say this knowing that once you get started down a rabbit hole cost and the scope of a project can spiral out of control quickly. The shocks and parts you are doing will be a significant improvement. I went the rock auto route as well, and was very pleased with the outcome. I would aim for springs and the roller perch setup combined with the arning drop when you come back to the project. Keep us updated and let us know how it rides when you are finished.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I've read ~5/8" so yeah, we're in agreement. Your car looks like the front wheels are greater than 1" off the fender. Is that an illusion?

I'm not pushing into the drop, just trying to help you figure out what's going on.

Sounds like you have a few projects to keep you busy. Good luck on this one and your daughters as well.

Allen
Greater than 1"?

Offset or gap at the stop of the tire?
 

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Answer to the original question: Have done several mustangs, still struggle with that same question. Kind of looking at Global West suspension for the built in caster and better greasing locations. There is no correct answer except avoid cheap parts.

Where the real problem is:
Unsure what is causing you to think the suspension needs rebuilt, but presuming handling and the fender damage.
I suspect it handles like crap and you are trying to determine how to prevent the damage.
So here is what I am seeing:

The oversized tires are what caused the rub/damage/crappy handling.
Car had to be lifted for fat tires to clear fenders, looks like you are ready for some off roading.
Tires are supposed to go inside the fender.
If you must keep the rims/tires, then leave it high, but if you want it to drive like a mustang, U gotta change your rims/tires and use the space inside the fenders.
From the picts. it looks like your uca is new, so I bet the actual parts (other than rims and tires) are just fine.
Try an experiment where borrow some correct sized tires/rims and take it for a drive, If you are in Dallas Ft. Worth, I will come look and bring my car/wheels for a test.
Remember these were originally designed to be a lady's car, and a small family car. They drive totally normal/fine when allowed to be normal.
Have a look at my profile pict, 100% stock, worn out parts, springs sagging making it look lowered, wheels inside the fenders, but it still drives great.

As far as being afraid.
Totally understand, had my heart broken by having my first car rear-ended in a chain reaction.

My advice is:
1. Search for Kelly, to see her story of being hit and bringing "jane" back. They can be fixed if something happens.
2. It is a CAR, a tool, a machine, intended to be driven and enjoyed, is it not a human being. Get over it.
3. I guarantee it was not restored to sit in a garage, it was restored for someone to enjoy, sounds like it is your turn so you should regain the spirit of the restoration.
4. Get agreed value insurance from Haggarty.
5. Get in it RIGHT NOW and go to sonic for a burger and shake.
 

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Curious...would the 245/45/17 sized tires on the front be a major issue why they were hitting the fenders?
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Where the real problem is:
Unsure what is causing you to think the suspension needs rebuilt, but presuming handling and the fender damage.
I suspect it handles like crap and you are trying to determine how to prevent the damage.
The car handles exactly like I would expect a 68 mustang to handle.
The damage occurred in 2014. I drove the car for 3 years after the damage. I went to a smaller tire and removed the Shelby drop and never had issues again with the fenders. The handling and damage are not why I assume the front end needs to be rebuilt. The excess play in a ball joint and a worn tie rod is what makes me know the suspension needs to be rebuilt. Along with worn strut rod bushings and sway bar bushings.
I also had them rolled, welded, and painted. The damage is gone, as are my concerns with rubbing.

So here is what I am seeing:

The oversized tires are what caused the rub/damage/crappy handling.
Car had to be lifted for fat tires to clear fenders, looks like you are ready for some off-roading.
The car is at stock ride height.

If you must keep the rims/tires, then leave it high, but if you want it to drive like a mustang, U gotta change your rims/tires and use the space inside the fenders.
I have stated several times I intend to install new wheels and tires this winter. I don't yet have plans for what wheels I want, although I am leaning towards a set of weld S77's
I have no desire to "drive it like a mustang"
I have other cars that are faster, and better handling. This is never going to be more than a put-around town car.

From the picts. it looks like your uca is new, so I bet the actual parts (other than rims and tires) are just fine.
Try an experiment where borrow some correct sized tires/rims and take it for a drive, If you are in Dallas Ft. Worth, I will come look and bring my car/wheels for a test.
I am in Washington, not Dallas
Some of the parts are new, many are worn. So rather than replace a few new parts I am going to replace everything.
The parts are not fine. There is a very worn tie rod end and on the passenger side, the upper ball joint has excessive play.

[/quote]

As far as being afraid.
Totally understand, had my heart broken by having my first car rear-ended in a chain reaction.

My advice is:
1. Search for Kelly, to see her story of being hit and bringing "jane" back. They can be fixed if something happens.
2. It is a CAR, a tool, a machine, intended to be driven and enjoyed, is it not a human being. Get over it.
3. I guarantee it was not restored to sit in a garage, it was restored for someone to enjoy, sounds like it is your turn so you should regain the spirit of the restoration.
4. Get agreed value insurance from Haggarty.
5. Get in it RIGHT NOW and go to sonic for a burger and shake.
1) I don't care if it can be fixed. I don't want to risk it.
2) I enjoy just owning a car. I don't need to drive it to enjoy it. And you weren't there when my father died, you have no idea how his death has affected me and the ptsd I went through.
3) See above, I enjoy simply owning a car. That said, I am not a fan of classic mustangs, so i don't feel the attachment many of you do.
4) It already has an agreed value policy, all my cars other than my dd do, and they have had for a decade.
5) It's undrivable. It's also so buried in the shop that i need 2 people to help get it out. It's not going anywhere right now.


Curious...would the 245/45/17 sized tires on the front be a major issue why they were hitting the fenders?
One would think right?
That was part of the reason, yes. I didn't put those tires on. My father did. He passed and when I went to get the car from his shop the damage occurred.



Look people, I don't need a lesson on classic mustangs. I am a very good mechanic, with a great shop, lift, tools, welder and the likes.
This isn't my first classic vehicle(58 F100, 74 Bronco, 78 Bronco, 66 F100) so I am well aware of the pitfalls and joys of owning them.
I also don't need to be badgered on whether or not I should or shouldn't drive my mustang. Its mine. I will do with it as I please.

I simply wanted advice on buying parts ala carte of trying to get a lower buck kit from a vendor.

I have my answer. Moog parts from rock auto is a fine choice and the kit from CJ pony parts is trash.
 

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(y)

Keep in mind when posting on open forums with literally thousands of members and “asking” for help or suggestions you will get many ideologies. Some good, others maybe not so much. At the end of the day it’s up to you to decide.

Another suggestion, you need to be prepared for some push back when you ask for advice and then seemingly ignore or argue against it. Most people will tend to shy away from helping those that are perceived to have made up their mind prior to coming here and asking.

I don’t feel as if anyone here has badgered you. Some of us might be a little more passionate with suggestions, but I saw no one make demands upon you.

We are all apologetic for the loss of your father. However, I’m not so certain that joining a vintage Mustang forum and stating that you have no Interest in vintage Mustangs followed with help me fix this, is the best approach. Nonetheless, best of luck to you Sir.
 

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I bought Moog upper and lower control arms and steering linkage from Rockauto, My 1" sway bar and links from Mustangs Unlimited but they were recently bought out, My Gas-Adjust Shocks from Amazon, export brace from Summit Racing, Eaton Improved handling (GT) springs from NPD. I saved several hundred $$$ buying it like that. I also did the Shelby Arning drop $80 for the alignment. It depends how you want your car to sit. On my wife's 65 I6 200 Vert, I did everything but springs and shocks I used a Grab-A-Trak spring and shock kit. I'm happy with the results with that kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
(y)

Keep in mind when posting on open forums with literally thousands of members and “asking” for help or suggestions you will get many ideologies. Some good, others maybe not so much. At the end of the day it’s up to you to decide.

Another suggestion, you need to be prepared for some push back when you ask for advice and then seemingly ignore or argue against it. Most people will tend to shy away from helping those that are perceived to have made up their mind prior to coming here and asking.

I don’t feel as if anyone here has badgered you. Some of us might be a little more passionate with suggestions, but I saw no one make demands upon you.

We are all apologetic for the loss of your father. However, I’m not so certain that joining a vintage Mustang forum and stating that you have no Interest in vintage Mustangs followed with help me fix this, is the best approach. Nonetheless, best of luck to you Sir.
I've been around forums for years
I am well aware of how they work.
But, the comments about just drive it, or just get over it aren't helpful, nor what I asked for. I don't need advice on enjoying a car. I simply asked for advice on a specific suspension kit vs piecing it together.
I didn't have my mind made up. I was leaning towards the cj pony parts kit until I posted here. Instead I ordered about $600 in parts from rockauto.
I asked about option a and b. Everyone came at me with option c. I told them I had looked at option c and it was not in my budget. This resulted in numerous posts telling me to reconsider it.

I will also likely buy open trackers kit this winter. So those are both met positives from this thread.
So I should lie and pretend I like vintage mustangs?
I don't hate them. I just have never felt a draw to them.
I'm a truck person. I have a truck that runs mid 10s, has 295/305 tires and has 15" 6 piston brakes.
 

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In our defense, we all live and breathe these cars and are very well versed on what works well and what doesn’t. I would go so far to say that 99.999999% (that’s six nines) of the members are extremely compassionate about our cars. Many of us have been through the exact things you are asking about. In fact, there are hundreds of threads discussing nothing but this. So when you ask, you receive based on our personal experiences. It’s free expertise at that. We try our best to encourage members not to waste money when we actually do know what is best...even though we can be overbearing sometimes. 😃
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
In our defense, we all live and breathe these cars and are very well versed on what works well and what doesn’t. I would go so far to say that 99.999999% (that’s six nines) of the members are extremely compassionate about our cars. Many of us have been through the exact things you are asking about. In fact, there are hundreds of threads discussing nothing but this. So when you ask, you receive based on our personal experiences. It’s free expertise at that. We try our best to encourage members not to waste money when we actually do know what is best...even though we can be overbearing sometimes. 😃
I understand that. And live it daily on the lightning forums. I've owned one for 16 years. I know them top to bottom front to back. Mine makes north of 700hp and has dd reliability.

But look at it from my perspective. I have a car that while it's value it priceless, the things it's used for in it's life don't appeal to me.
I find it awkward to sit in.
It's nerve wracking to drive because I'm terrified of rock chips, door dings and accidents.
My dad painted the car. I did the wiring and drivetrain. So while it can be repaired, it's not going to be the same.

And to be told to get over it. And drive it. It's very off putting. I was basically told to accept their idealogy with no regard for my mindset or situation.
 
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