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I'm trying to get the front bolt of the leaf spring out. The nut is off and the bolt turns but wont come out. Am I missing something? There is no weight on the spring. Differential is out. Shock mounting plate is off. Getting a little frustrated. Help.

66 Coupe, Sauterne Gold (aka goose sh** green) rust bucket
order parts...wait....parts arrive....wait....look at parts...wait....scratch crotch...wait....look at rust bucket...sigh...scratch again
 

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What you have is the same thing I have, the bolt is rusted inside the metal sleeve in the spring bushing. Unless anti sieze fluid will get in there and free up the rust, be prepared to cut the bolt between the spring and the frame with something like a sawsall.

[color:blue]68 GT500</font color=blue>
[color:green]68 1/2 CJ Coupe</font color=green>

MCA# 18519
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I've banged on it pretty hard.What gets me is the darn bolt turns. I'll take a break...soak...drink coffee..try again. If not, I'll cut it off.

66 Coupe, Sauterne Gold (aka goose sh** green) rust bucket
order parts...wait....parts arrive....wait....look at parts...wait....scratch crotch...wait....look at rust bucket...sigh...scratch again<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by STR8SIX on 04/15/01 05:02 PM (server time).</FONT></P>
 

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Let it soak, bang it out a little bang it back in to get it freed up and eventually after a couple of times of doing this it should come out. I did mine a couple of months ago and put five leaf springs in mine and I did exactly what I'm telling you and it came right out. Maybe I was lucky but that is exactly what I did and I didn't have to cut a thing.
 
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It is turning because the bolt is rusted to the inside of the metal sleeve and the sleeve is turning inside of the rubber bushing. Soak the heck out of it with penetrating spray oil but althought it may not get all the way down in there. Like others have said, you may have to cut the bolt. If you don't care about the bushing then you may even be able to put a little heat using a propane torch. Heat does wonders.
 

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I just did this and it was a huge PITA.

I even rented a sawzall and all I ended up doing was chewing the crap out of the whole thing. Due to the size of the sawzall, the lack of jack height, etc. I just could get the angle right.

I soaked the &@%! of the the thing with penetrating oil and let it sit. I then put the two 1/2" drive extensions that came with my tool set together and set the rachet end up against the end of the bolt at an angle. I protected the rocker panel and then smacked the extension with a 3lb sledgehammer a few times and it came right through.

This was cheaper than the sawzall and it worked better for me. Just be REALLY careful when wielding that 3lb hammer around your rocker panel.

-Aaron

Houston, TX - 67 Fastback in restoration. A-code, C-4, 9" Traction-Loc rear.

"If you wish to make an apple pie from scratch, you must first invent the universe" - Carl Sagan
 
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Glad to see I wasnt the only who experienced this... I knew there wasn't anything else holding it in there, but I kept looking in books to see if there was a secret pin or c-clip.... 5lb sledge, 3-in-1 oil, 1/2" drive 12
inch extension and a few beers... PRESTO!!!

64.5 convertible (restomod in progress)
sold the COBRA for family sedan (new addition)


I dont need my wifes permission....
I'm not above begging forgiveness!!
 
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If soaking doesn't work here is a way to cut it out, at least it worked easily for me... Get a cutting wheel, like the ones you can buy for a skill saw for example. Then mount the cutting wheel on a high speed drill. To do this you can use the adaptor from a polishing wheel. The cutting blade needs to be big enough to reach. I used a 7 1/4 metal cutting wheel. This setup will allow you to cut the bolt from the inside of the frame support quite quickly and easily. Good luck.

Adrien.

65 GT Coupe, dismantled waiting for resto.
67 Restomod Coupe, in assy.
69 Mach 1 S code, SWMBO say don't take it apart!
91 5.0 LX HB, driver.
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1594363&a=12146434&p=44060413
 
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I had this happen to me a couple weeks back. After fighting with the reciprocating saw for hours, I bought a $5.00 ARCO WHIZZ-DISK for my drill. It cut through the bolt in about 10 minutes. It's flexible so there is no risk of shattering like with a skill saw blade and there's hardly any sparks.


mike
 

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I seem to recall a method to extract the bolt without resorting to fire or mechanical mayhem. It involved a threaded stud and a 2" long hex nut. Or was it two 1" long hex nut. Unfortunately the brain cell that held that info died on me. I think the nut is same thread size as the stuck bolt and threaded stud. Thread stud in nut and nut and thread on stuck bolt end. use a 1/4" plate to protect the rocker and unthread the stud untill it stops at the 1/4" plate. Use a wrench to hold the stuck bolt and use another wrench to unscrew nut from stuck bolt. It can't move much but it should be enough to break it loose. Some how I thought there is a way to unthread the nut and have the stud push against the stuck bolt but I can't visualize it. I hope someone can remember - I got this from the Courtave.Mustang.talk days...

Regards,

Dean T

Shikatta Ga Nai - "It cannot be helped"
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Now thats ingenious. The brain cells havent gone into total meltdown. Thanx

66 Coupe, Sauterne Gold (aka goose sh** green) rust bucket
order parts...wait....parts arrive....wait....look at parts...wait....scratch crotch...wait....look at rust bucket...sigh...scratch again
 
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Had the same problem. I tried most of the suggestions listed, but to no avail.
Finally, I grabbed my pneumatic air chisel and put a "punch" (tapered, blunt end) bit in it.
There's just enough room to squeeze the the chisel in at an angle.
Viola, out came the bolt. I can't remember, but I think I marred the end of the bolt and may have had to cut it off to pass it through the bushing. I was throwing the springs away, so I didn't really take much care to protect anything but the mounts.
 
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