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Just some guy
67 coupe, 69 Sportsroof, 86 hatchback
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Pretty much just what I built out of my junk box some years ago after I came across a nice thick piece of allthread for five dollars at a swap meet. I don't use it a whole bunch and when I do I always forget to initially double nut the bottom so at some point the allthread goes down into the arm instead of the nuts going as expected. I've considered tack welding them to get around that but it's nice that it completely disassembles when I want it too. Like for heavy big block springs. I actually threw it together temporarily to save going to get a commercial style compressor or retrieving my other compressor that someone had borrowed. But it ended up working so well I kept it and it's my go-to compressor for old Mustang type springs.
What I threw together bears amazing resemblance to what Pete has pictured above, so it's not like I invented anything new.
 

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I used the Ebay type that bolts to the spring perch on my 68. It's not ideal when not removing the upper control arm but it can be done with a little persuasion. I was having an issue with ride height so I changed out 3 sets of springs without removing the upper arms. Why won't this type work on a big block car? In this picture I am removing the spring with the A-arm still attached to the car. All I had to do is pry the spring outwards over top of the upper ball joint. Then release the pressure and the spring drops right out. Installation is simply the reverse but it is critical to get the bolt holes on the spring perch lined up with the holes in the upper control arm before getting a lot of pressure on the spring (which makes it very difficult to move afterwards).
 

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I have 390 BB springs in my car, almost destroyed the tool trying to get them in, I played hell trying to get the spring compressed straight. Without removing the lower control arm that is. The springs are a LOT stiffer


I used the Ebay type that bolts to the spring perch on my 68. It's not ideal when not removing the upper control arm but it can be done with a little persuasion. I was having an issue with ride height so I changed out 3 sets of springs without removing the upper arms. Why won't this type work on a big block car? In this picture I am removing the spring with the A-arm still attached to the car. All I had to do is pry the spring outwards over top of the upper ball joint. Then release the pressure and the spring drops right out. Installation is simply the reverse but it is critical to get the bolt holes on the spring perch lined up with the holes in the upper control arm before getting a lot of pressure on the spring (which makes it very difficult to move afterwards).
 
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I have done the springs for 1 '68 1/2 R cars with my home made tool. Greasing the threads and washers is an important step. But no problem as long as you do it. Even SB springs would mess up the threads eventually, with them dry.
 

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I have an el cheapo Harbor freight spring compressor... I don't use it very often...but it does work.
 

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On my 69 390 I just completed going through front and rear suspension last week. I made my spring compressor that bolts in place of the shock and ball joint tools. I did not have to take my UCA out to replace my springs. To make the angle better for sliding the spring out I left the 2 shock bolts out on top so it could rotate it a little. Having a thought, a crescent radius for the large nut to ride on could be a nice feature to this type of spring compressor. After I removed the springs then I pulled the UCA's to lower them an Inch and yea that is time consuming.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
This is the one I picked up last week. I have one question about it. On the one I got, the fork points are not level. One is closer to straight while the other point is curved. Is that the way they are made?

Weather is now down to 5 above and ice so I am camped in front of the fire and the computer, wasting time. If the temps get above 25 or 30, I will be pulling the springs.
 

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This is the one I picked up last week. I have one question about it. On the one I got, the fork points are not level. One is closer to straight while the other point is curved. Is that the way they are made?

Weather is now down to 5 above and ice so I am camped in front of the fire and the computer, wasting time. If the temps get above 25 or 30, I will be pulling the springs.
Correct, as the coil on one side is not the same height as on the other. Is that what you are referring to?
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Thanks for the reply. That is the answer I was hoping for. That is made out of some tough steel. I would hope it was not bent from use or misuse.
 

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I just got my new MM ..monday has a article on susp... funny taking out the spring using FLOOR JACK never heard that .. and they install the spring same way ! no need for fr spr compressor ...
 
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