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Hello,

Yesterday i tried to repack the bearings with grease and check/lubricate the brake mechanism in the front wheels.. After cleaning and repacking the bearings I could not find out how to tighten the bearings correctly. I have the Haynes manual and they said I first had to tighten the adjuster to seat the bearings to 17 to 25 lbs ft. After that I had to loosen the adjuster a half turn and then re torque it to 10 to 15 lbs ft.
I did this but the bearing seemed a bit tight this way so I searched the forums and heard that it finally should be torqued to 10 to 15 lbs inch instead of lbs ft which is a lot looser.

Finally I turned the adjuster by hand and just some more to remove the slack in the drum and installed the cotter pin. After putting on the road wheel I noticed there was still a tiny little bit slop in the bearing.

Does anybody know how to tighten the wheel bearings correctly? Should a front wheel bearing have some play or not at all?

Thanks in advance!
 

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sounds like the hub was not seated correctly. make sure the hub is torqued against the bearing, at 10 ft lbs (or more).
 

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There should be NO play in the bearing at all. Are you sure your play isn't in the tie rods? I torque mine just as the Haynes manual says. You should be rotating the drum/hub while seating it with the initial 17-25 ft. lbs.

Oh, and there's no way 10-15 inch lbs. is going to hold a wheel on ... it should be, as the Haynes says, Foot lbs.
 

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I spin the drum/rotor as I tighten it until the nut bottoms out, then I back off about a 1/4 turn. The nut should be just tight enough that you can't take it off with your fingers.
 
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I always turned the drum or rotor, as I tightened the nut. When I was satisfied (no torque wrench available) that there was no play or looseness, I'd back the nut off just enough to install the cotter pin. You should not have to turn the nut very much at all, no where near 1/4 of a turn, as I recall. It has worked for me.
 

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Yup,

Turn the hub as you tighten the nut, tighten the nut until it's tight...very firm. Then without turnung the hub, loosen the nut about 1/2 turn, then tighten, gently until there is contact. The washer behind the nut should barely move when wiggled with a screwdriver.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
There is no play in the tie rods, i can feel the play when i put my finger between the drum and the backing plate.

Before i disassembled the wheel bearing there was much more play in the wheel. It sounded reallly like a clunk when i tried to rock the wheel. I could spin the adjuster right off after i removed the cotter pin.

Johnpro : how long are you driving the bearings with 10 15 lbs ft?
 
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