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The distributor vacuum line goes to one of the two ports on the carb, cap the other one.
Originally, they used "timed" vacuum, which is the top port.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Like I said, I will raise the fuel level in the float bowls to about less than half, hook up vacuum gauge and start from seated and back out all screws 1.5 turns, then start up and let it warm up. Then, start with front right screw, turning in, and get the highest vacuum reading. Then adjust all screws the same. I will take pictures and let you know how it all goes. Today is SUPPOSE to be a nice day out, so Ill be able to take it out and test out the vacuum secondary opening. If it bogs and hesitates when I hit the gas, needs to be opening faster (turn screw out) correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Here are a few pictures...
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These are the front two ports closed off, side port closed off with screw? Nothing hooks up there correct? Also, with a mechanical fuel pump and this type of carb...I dont see a fuel pressure regulator. Sound right?

Other pictures of before adjustments after car was running for at least 20 min...
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Then after adjusting fuel level, and backed out idle mixture screws to about 1 and a quarter from seated...maybe a little more in...
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Runs and starts up great...EXCEPT that when I hit the gas, it seems sluggish. Almost like a decrease in power? Could this just be from the adjustment of the vacuum secondary screw?
 

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It could be cos you don't have vacuum advance to a distributor that needs it, post a pic of the dissy.
 

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Just my 2 centavos....
The front float bowl looks a little low and the rear float bowl looks too low. You want the fuel level to be nominally in the middle of The round window. It’s weird (but not unheard of) that you don’t have a Vacuum advance distributor.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
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I noticed at the bottom here, there were 2 little notches and you could turn the distributor left and right...I wander if one of those notches have to be to the left of that chrome bolt? Also, if raising the fuel level in those bowls, couldn't it cause it to flood? Maybe when I hit the gas, it's not getting enough?
 

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Raising the float level to where it should be will not cause the carb to flood the engine. Tiny adjustments to the fuel level can change when the main circuit comes in. Slightly higher makes it come in sooner IIRC. You secondary level looks too low. The gas level should be dead center of the circular sight glass.
loosen the rear float adjustment screw. Turn the nut a little counterclockwise and the tighten the screw. Rev the engine and then see where the level settles. You have to use fuel from the secondary to see how the level change reacts.
Looks like you don’t have any vacuum advance so you might need more static advance than normal.
I believe the 289 Hipo specs call for 34 degrees total, so measure your timing at around 4000 rpm and see what it is. I ran a similar Mallory Unilite years ago. From the factory they add around 20 degrees advance all in by 4000 rpm. So 14 degrees static timing might be a Good starting point. You really have to have the timing right to ever get the carb tuned properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Raising the float level to where it should be will not cause the carb to flood the engine. Tiny adjustments to the fuel level can change when the main circuit comes in. Slightly higher makes it come in sooner IIRC. You secondary level looks too low. The gas level should be dead center of the circular sight glass.
loosen the rear float adjustment screw. Turn the nut a little counterclockwise and the tighten the screw. Rev the engine and then see where the level settles. You have to use fuel from the secondary to see how the level change reacts.
Looks like you don’t have any vacuum advance so you might need more static advance than normal.
I believe the 289 Hipo specs call for 34 degrees total, so measure your timing at around 4000 rpm and see what it is. I ran a similar Mallory Unilite years ago. From the factory they add around 20 degrees advance all in by 4000 rpm. So 14 degrees static timing might be a Good starting point. You really have to have the timing right to ever get the carb tuned properly.
Ok thanks for the info! I will FIRST...raise the fuel level so that BOTH are at halfway, then, I will set idle to 4000 rpm. I do have a timing light but have never used it. It was passed down with the car. I have vaguely read up on how to use a timing light to see how many degrees I am at. So, at 4000 rpm, I should hit the light at the small "point" and see what it reads correct? So if it reads at 34 degrees, I need to turn the distributor a certain way, then measure again and my goal would be to get it to 14 degrees above the 34 to start with? Or do I need to get it to 34 degrees at 4000 rpm, drop it down to a good idle, then measure it and try to get it to 14 degrees about the 34?

And once again...if anyone in the Indianapolis Indiana area sees this, would greatly appreciate ANY help. Thanks again for all the help on here guys!
 

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Ok for timing I meant that at 4000 it should read 34 degrees. At idle that should correlate to 14 degrees. If it reads close to 34 at 4000, and around 14 at idle I would leave the timing alone.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Ok for timing I meant that at 4000 it should read 34 degrees. At idle that should correlate to 14 degrees. If it reads close to 34 at 4000, and around 14 at idle I would leave the timing alone.
Ok will do. Thanks and I will check it out and post an update later on.
 
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