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The 3/8 fuel line will go over your 5/16 sender outlet. Just clamp it down.

Are you using the stock tank? I have a Ron Morris fuel sender with a 3/8th outlet and a built in 5/16 return I can sell you.

I have been using Russell pro classic hose as a feed for many years with no problems. But, that is with a carb. I am switching to the Vaporguard for the efi install.
 

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I have the 20 gal on order. I know it's 2 gallons less than my original tank. With fold down seat there is no room in the trunk so I could use the 1" more room on the floor (it's not as tall). 20 gallons is enough.

Really like the lines are in the original location and not in the trunk. Ordered through Summit and just got an email est ship at the end of the month.

Right now the Stealth II might be the best deal. Also got $50 off Summit deal they just ran, $450 out the door Aeromotive seams to be all USA stuff. Just concerned how long the foam will hold up. I heard the people with Tank inc set up experience fuel starvation on turns and hard accel below 1/2 tank.

Although the Spectra tank has an attractive price that tray or baffle is even smaller and causes starvation sooner. Then figure in our members that used these tanks had black junk in the tanks and ruined fuel pumps.

Using Nickel-copper 3/8th hard line with AN fittings. Will have flex from firewall to TB with fuel pressure gauge in feed line.


Im really eyeing that tank - let me know how it goes. the damn spectra EFI tank with its tupperware baffle is a JOKE! if i take any turn with 1/3 or a tank my pump starves out. so unhappy with it.
 

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No heed for a pre-filter if you have an in-tank pump with sock.

What I did for the return line on my 'Cuda EFI conversion is that I purchased a new full steel line and piggy backed it most of the way. Some soft lines to get up to the tank and to the fuel rails/regulator.
 

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I have the infamous command Center and in 3 years never had a problem and it's not modified. Installed a vent back to the tank. I went that route because I have a stainless steel tank that I really like. I installed the CC hiding all the lines behind the apron and put it where the washer bottle was. I have ran it 1 1/2 gallons of gas calibrating gauge and driving 4 miles to the gas station and never a hiccup

I'm afraid it's going to crap out, although it's never gave any sign of that. So i looked at different systems. I like the Holly hydro mat but some where I read the mat has a life span and the foam gasket sealing against the ribs. Aeromotive Stealth is the same thing with lines on top and foam gasket. The drop in unit cutting a hole in your tank is like $480.

So when I seen the Stealth II tank assy complete new tank, Pump, fuel sender and no foam gaskets and lines in stock location for $500, USA made (actually $450, Summit had that $50 off $500 deal) I needed a winter project. I'll have the lines coming out the rear of the unit so it will be a clean look.

I have a lot mods and like that they are hidden. I have EPS but you don't see it. Lose the PS pump and lines under the hood and hideous lines and ram under the car (and leaks). Tightened up the steering feel not having the control valve and ram. Pitman arm has no direct connection to the center link
 

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I have the infamous command Center and in 3 years never had a problem and it's not modified. Installed a vent back to the tank. I went that route because I have a stainless steel tank that I really like. I installed the CC hiding all the lines behind the apron and put it where the washer bottle was. I have ran it 1 1/2 gallons of gas calibrating gauge and driving 4 miles to the gas station and never a hiccup
i didnt think of the command center as a fix for fuel starvation due to bad baffling --- so that seems like it would eliminate that right? since its pulling the fuel from its own separate tank?
 

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i didnt think of the command center as a fix for fuel starvation due to bad baffling --- so that seems like it would eliminate that right? since its pulling the fuel from its own separate tank?
Yeah the regular fuel pump could suck up some air but you have the high pressure pump in tank that holds I think a gallon or 1 1/2. The idea of it looked good. I also think the CC got a bad rap form poor installs. EFI retro kits in general most problems are user self inficked
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
To provide a bit of an update, I went ahead and ordered a bunch of 3/8" Earls Vapor Guard with what should be all the fittings etc to make it all work. Ended up ordering enough for what should mean I can do a new supply and return and not use the existing tube. I worked out that if I go 10' from the fuel rail of the 5.0 it should get back far enough to where I can land the post filter inside the rear sub frame. Length of 20' will get me a return line with some excess to complete the interconnects between the pump / filter etc... fingers crossed. There were some sales online and I figured "do it once do it right".... hopefully everything will go together and it'll be the last time I'll have to think about the fuel delivery once its all installed.

-Rob
 

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I've got the Holley Sniper and Aeromotive Stealth Gen 2 tank arriving tomorrow from Summit.

Still haven't decided how I'm going to plumb it and it's got me totally twisted up.
I've seen some good ideas here, but I'm still much more worried about the plumbing than anything else with this swap.

I want to use the original 5/16 hardline as the return, and still debating how to do the feed line.

My current favorite idea is to use 3/8 ni/copp hardline, but I'm spinning back and forth over three different possible routes.

1. Parallel the stock line up the driver's side.
A couple of issues here, one of which is it goes through a hole in a frame support that is not big enough to fit the 3/8 line. The other issue is not sure how I'll get to the firewall since I don't want to follow the factory up through the front wheel well since I want to have both return and feed come out the back of the Sniper TB.

2. Mirror the stock routing location except on the passenger side.
Kind of have same issue, not sure how/where to deviate from stock route to get to firewall.

3. Run it up the driveline tunnel. Not sure how to secure it in there since I think it's all thin sheet metal. Also worried about safety of having it in a tunnel near a spinning driveline.

All of the above is further complicated by the fact that the car is fully assembled and I think bending hardline around all the crap under the car is probably well beyond my skillset, and patience, if it's possible at all. Especially with me on my back under the car on jack stands since I have no lift.....

I'm super excited for the Stealth tank and the Sniper, but the plumbing is freaking me right out.

I'd love to hear some ideas/feedback on any of my 3 options above.

For those who have used the factory line as return, any luck modifying it to enter the engine bay and go up the firewall instead of up through the front wheel well to the front of the engine?
Or did you just leave it and u-turn it out of the TB and down around the water pump in stock route?

Has anyone done hardline up the trans tunnel? If so what did you use to anchor it and did you pull it off the the car "put together"?

Also, how did you route the power wire back to the tank? Is it crazy to piggyback it with one of the fuel lines?

Ray
 

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I'm in a similar boat with only a little less aggravation since i'm pretty set with my components.

I have a stealth tank that will be going to a Sniper for v1 of the installation. I'm using Fragola PTFE stainless braid and Fragola fittings for both feed and return lines with two bulk head connectors (fragola) in the trunk area to get the lines from the top of the tank to the underside of the car. I initially have these going out the passenger side of the trunk area like several others have done. However, i'm going to have to change that since I have a GT valance which will put the exhaust pipe, basically on top of where I have the fuel lines.
So the new plan is to move the bulk heads to the front area of the tank recess in the trunk.

I intend to put the feed line bulk head on the drivers side and the return closer to the passenger side. The hose will have a 90 degree connector aiming to the passengers side with a short hose that will go into the filter From there I get fuzzy though...since i dont have an exhaust yet. I'm inclined to run the lines to over the axle hump and down the passenger side of the car, through the cross member, up to the center of the firewall, terminating into an Aeromotive regulator...cause i dont trust the Holley regulator and will likely go to a multi-port setup in a year or two.

The other thing i've toyed around with was still dumping the lines out the front of the tank recess, but sending the feed line on the drivers side and the return down the tunnel or down the passenger side.

I realize this doesnt answer any of your problems but I wanted to share my thought process on this whole deal. I'm also probably going to be putting a hold on running the lines until i have both the new rear suspension (want to make sure i dont have watts link clearance issues) and the exhaust in so i can run the lines once. I dont want to turn my floor into swiss cheese with hose holders.
 

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I've got the Holley Sniper and Aeromotive Stealth Gen 2 tank arriving tomorrow from Summit.

Still haven't decided how I'm going to plumb it and it's got me totally twisted up.
I've seen some good ideas here, but I'm still much more worried about the plumbing than anything else with this swap.

I want to use the original 5/16 hardline as the return, and still debating how to do the feed line.

My current favorite idea is to use 3/8 ni/copp hardline, but I'm spinning back and forth over three different possible routes.

1. Parallel the stock line up the driver's side.
A couple of issues here, one of which is it goes through a hole in a frame support that is not big enough to fit the 3/8 line. The other issue is not sure how I'll get to the firewall since I don't want to follow the factory up through the front wheel well since I want to have both return and feed come out the back of the Sniper TB.

2. Mirror the stock routing location except on the passenger side.
Kind of have same issue, not sure how/where to deviate from stock route to get to firewall.

3. Run it up the driveline tunnel. Not sure how to secure it in there since I think it's all thin sheet metal. Also worried about safety of having it in a tunnel near a spinning driveline.

All of the above is further complicated by the fact that the car is fully assembled and I think bending hardline around all the crap under the car is probably well beyond my skillset, and patience, if it's possible at all. Especially with me on my back under the car on jack stands since I have no lift.....

I'm super excited for the Stealth tank and the Sniper, but the plumbing is freaking me right out.

I'd love to hear some ideas/feedback on any of my 3 options above.

For those who have used the factory line as return, any luck modifying it to enter the engine bay and go up the firewall instead of up through the front wheel well to the front of the engine?
Or did you just leave it and u-turn it out of the TB and down around the water pump in stock route?

Has anyone done hardline up the trans tunnel? If so what did you use to anchor it and did you pull it off the the car "put together"?

Also, how did you route the power wire back to the tank? Is it crazy to piggyback it with one of the fuel lines?

Ray
I'm doing one of you ideas. I'm waiting for my tank from Summit, been almost a month (68-70 20 gal). I'm using 3/8 nic-copper and 37* flares using -an fittings. I'm copying the drivers side stock location except making a hole around st box- steering shaft. Looking to get behind intake and then switching to push-loc hose to TB unit. Will also have fuel pressure gauge at firewall before it transitions to flex hose

Return is 3/8 and going to mimic drivers side but on passenger side along the pinch weld and at the rear front frame rail (where you would frame rail connectors) cutting across to the trans tunnel. Then just going to go up the trans tunnel and up firewall and use flex hose with the push loc fittings.

I'm one of the few who had a command center and never had a problem with. Just want to clean up under hood. I have all the lines now behind the apron but want to put my washer bottle back. Have eps so no ps junk and lines and getting rid if stock fuel pump will be nice. All the new lines will enter tb on the back so out of site
 

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Here's how far I've gotten. My car is 70 so the original 2 piece fuel line runs on the left side. I want to try to install the fuel system in as simple a fashion as possible minimizing drilling the car body. I thought about duplicating the bends in the original line so I took out the line and cleaned it. The line is in great shape and far better than anything I could make. I used Earl's 5/16 NiCopp for the return. I was able to feed it through a hole in the torque box and through a grommet just above the steering gear. The original 3/8 fuel line comes into the engine compartment just below the power steering pump. It just needs a hose where the fuel pump used to be. It would be nice to feed the Sniper through a front fitting, but it might not clear the air cleaner base there. I used a brake flaring tool to make retention beads. 3/8" and -AN6 tubing is about .37" diameter. The retention bead needs to be .44". 5/16" tubing is .31" and needs a .36" bead. Earl's Vaporgaurd hose and clamps will properly seal to 225 PSI with this system.

It just took about 3 practice tries before I made good flares with the brake tool.
 

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Like schweigert, I ran two new Vapor Guard EFI hoses. I did elect to run 3/8" for both the feed and return. The feed is cut to insert the inline filter near the tank, but everything else is a clean run from the tank to the Sniper and the return line is the same. I installed new sub-frame connectors which enabled me to run up the passenger side and into the engine compartment like schweigert described. I did drill through the tunnel support (a solution I got from Kelly H. in a thread from a couple years back). The photos were taken prior to welding the sub-frame connectors in place.
I like that routing along the sub frame connectors. I might consider getting those just for that alone.
What model connectors are those and where forms?

CJ Pony has some bolt on ones for $109 that I would consider, but they seem a bit boxier than yours.
https://www.cjponyparts.com/subframe-connector-bolt-on-pair-coupe-fastback-1965-1970/p/SFC1/

I’d also love to see some pics of where you routed once you got in front of the tunnel support.
-Like from underneath and the up the firewall or where ever you went from there.


Cheers,
Ray
 

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I like that routing along the sub frame connectors. I might consider getting those just for that alone.
What model connectors are those and where forms?

CJ Pony has some bolt on ones for $109 that I would consider, but they seem a bit boxier than yours.
https://www.cjponyparts.com/subframe-connector-bolt-on-pair-coupe-fastback-1965-1970/p/SFC1/

I’d also love to see some pics of where you routed once you got in front of the tunnel support.
-Like from underneath and the up the firewall or where ever you went from there.

They are Hotchkis sub-frame connectors. I purchased them through NPD. I believe they were about $225. They're very heavy duty construction.

Despite what it says in the NPD description, these are NOT bolt in units (I drilled and bolted them in place to get the car to the welder, where the bolts were removed and the holes welded shut.). Even on the Hotchkis website, it clearly states that they are to be welded in place. They do fit '65-'70 Mustangs, so they may bolt into later year. The holes in the side and bottom plates are for plug welding and do not align with any holes in the sub-frames.

Lastly, the front mounting captures the sub-frame precisely and requires that your frame is in very good condition. If not, you will have to rework the sub-frame to make them fit over the factory part.
 

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I've got the Holley Sniper and Aeromotive Stealth Gen 2 tank arriving tomorrow from Summit.

Ray
Ray: I am jealous that you are getting your Aeromotive Stealth Gen 2 tank. I ordered one in September, contacted by Summit regarding the backorder, at which time I told them to continue the order. In October, they cancelled it without contacting me first. I reordered, now it was supposed to ship from Aeromotive today, lets hope.
 

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Very good thread guys!
Thank you.
Pretty darn sure I’m going aeromotive tank and sniper combo.
I was thinking braided lines front to back with fittings.

Maybe that’s too expensive or too hard of material to work with.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Ray: I am jealous that you are getting your Aeromotive Stealth Gen 2 tank. I ordered one in September, contacted by Summit regarding the backorder, at which time I told them to continue the order. In October, they cancelled it without contacting me first. I reordered, now it was supposed to ship from Aeromotive today, lets hope.
That’s odd, I ordered mine from Summit late Saturday night, it shipped Monday and I received it Thursday. Mine is 16 gallon w/ 200lph pump.

Hope yours gets there soon....
 

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They are Hotchkis sub-frame connectors. I purchased them through NPD. I believe they were about $225. They're very heavy duty construction.
Thanks, I’ll check those out.
You got any pics of the fuel line route in front of the tunnel support by any chance?

It all looks good.
 

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I am using Spectra Premium F28DFI 22 gal tank, 3/8" feed & return NiCopp hard line & I am using Aeroquip aluminum black anodized -06AN fittings & Gates Barricade MPI fuel line hose at the tank sender/pump, fuel filter, & at the EFI unit.
 
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