[akbarber]

Here's what I found out after talking to Fuel Safe and talking with others in the forum.
http://secure.fuelsafe.net/cgi-bin/fuelsafe/SpecialtyApplications.html
There are 3 models:

SA111A - Pro Cell (16 gal.) $943.40
SA111B - Pro Cell (22 gal.) $1090.75
SA112A - Sportsman cell (16 gal.) $837.40
SA112B - Sportsman Cell (22 gal.) $906.30

The Enduro is a cross polymer replacement bladder that is slightly cheaper but is slightly porous and you may smell gas.

All of them drop in and bolt up once you man handle them into the trunk. Wiring the sending unit can get a bit tricky (more so on the 69-70) but is not difficult. Estimated time for install is 2 hrs for the cell and 4 hours for the wiring.

You will want to purchase the sending unit ($100) and a filler neck ($89) (unless you're planning to open the trunk to fuel your car). With the filler neck installed, it weakens the design purpose of the cell ie the cell is no longer self contained. I believe some folks have opted out of the filler neck for this reason.

The Sportsman is guaranteed for 3 years, the Pro for 10, and the Enduro for 5. If the bladder fails under warranty, then you pull it and send it back to Fuel Safe. Otherwise if it fails you pull the original bladder and and replace it. To replace the bladder, you'll need to unbolt the cell, open it, and take the bladder out.

As to when they will fail, it appears to be anybody's guess. The guy at Fuel Safe said that he just pulled a bladder out of car that had been in since '87 and functioning fine.

He did say that the sponges are more apt to need replacing more frequently but that too is variable. If you are going to store your car longer that 3 months, he said that the tank should be full to prevent drying and cracking of the bladder.

Now you know all I know about fuel cells /forums/images/icons/wink.gif.

 

[Dinosawnj]

If you shop around you can usually beat those prices (I paid about $725 for a 16 gal Pro cell with the sender) for a circle track supplier. Wiring shouldn't take more than 2 hours (including 1/2 trip to Radio Shack for bits for the constant 5v that the sender needs. Bob.

 

[R100RT]

Have you seen the Mustang cells up close. It looks like they cannot be unbolted for bladder replacement. Maybe, they can.

If you don't need the bladder for racing, there are other alternatives. I should take delivery of the RCI fuel tank, I designed,next week. 20 gals, drop in, GM sender, foam, -8AN supply, -6AN return, -8 AN vent, aircraft style filler, tip valve, $320.

 

[akbarber]

FYI - Those prices are from www.racingpartswholesale.com.
Times are based on an article in Mustang & Fords. Articles on Fuel Cells are as follows:

MF JAN 1994 The Paddock's resto replacement fuel cell for vintage Mustangs.

MI AUG 1998 Installing a Gemini Racing Systems/Fuel Safe fuel cell inside the trunk of a vintage Mustang.

MF MAR 2000 Putting race-car safety into street Mustangs

MF NOV 2001 Fuel-cell protection for your ride: A Racing Fuel Cell from Fuel Safe means added safety

Thanks to kketell, abadtb2, and Dinosawnj for answers in my previous post (http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=1&Board=forum&Number=431699&page=1&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=)

 

[akbarber]

I haven't seen them up close. The article in MF showed what looked like someone muscling the top lid off to expose the bladder beneath. The rep at Fuel Safe explained that it is possible to unbolt it while in the car but that's what I was told, not what I've done. Maybe Jay or Kent can comment.

 

[RaSMG]

I'm not sure if we're talking the same quality, but Summit racing catalog has quite a few "generic" fuel cells for $150-$500 anywhere from 5gal - 20gal. I am eyeing a nice 16 gallon "race" style with angled edges so when you accelerate hard or turn hard it still picks up well. I mean it doesn't have the NRHA's approval and sponsorship but I don't see what the big difference would be. Maybe I'm missing something here, check summitracing.com and search for 16 fuel cell.

 

[BossBill]

The Fuel Safe cells can be unbolted for access.
What the bladder design buys you is fuel containment if the tank is crushed and some protection against sharp metal. Plus foam helps to prevent fireballs.

I'm intigued. I've looked at all the cells and the std 20 Gals are 24x18x10 (or there abouts).
Since the std tank is 30.75x22 (not incl lip)x7.5, how do you get anything to 'bolt in'?
Summit will let you design one? How did you do that??
You've almost designed one to meet my specs too (although I will go Ford on the sender -- snicker).

My design uses a steel outside container with a poly inside -- a Jaz tank Pro Sport II. The real other cheaper alternative to a bladder.
The tank is 16 gal with 25x17x9 specs.
I'm going to build a mini .5x.5 rect tubing cage, which will bolt to the existing trunk floor holes. The tank will fit in there (see delta bay mustang site) at http://www.deltabaymustang.com/images/hpcatimgs/db071234.gif

BossBill

 

[Jay]

The 4 bolts that mount the tank to the car also hold the top and bottom lids together. You can pull it apart in the car if you like.

 

[R100RT]

Hi Bill,
It's so simple, you gonna be suprised. All I did is ask RCI to add a 4" lip/flange on two sides, and a 4.5" lip/flange on the other two. Fits the opening perfect. The flanges will include gussets. For my application, I asked them to keep 7" of tank above the flange. I am concerned about keeping a flooded suction to my aeromotive pump.

My thought process was the same as yours. Then I saw the 20 gal tank was close enough to fit the early cars tank opening. I faxed a scitch to RCI and then called them. The are great folks to work with. The result is a tank that meets my needs better than the higher priced solutions.
For my needs, occasional track time, mostly weekend crusing, I couldn't justify the cost of the true fuel cell. But, If I just replaced the tank and filler, I will have spent nearly as much as what I will for the RCI aluminum tank and it has foam.

 

[Guest]

I have the SA111B - Pro Cell (22 gal.) in my 65 Fastback. If any of you use the GT style exhaust out the rear valance, you may run into a problem. The tack covers about 1/4 of the hole for the tail pipe. I am haveing my exhaust installed tomorrow and hopefully they will be able to keep it the way I want it. I have seen people bend up the passenger side of the take about one inch to slide it over a it, bt I am not willing to do that to this expensive tank!

Good Luck!

 

[BossBill]

RT,

That's excellent. Sounds like the way to go. You look at the literature and nowhere does it suggest you can have them 'customize' things a bit.
You just saved me a bunch of trouble and $$!
Thanks,

BossBill

 

[R100RT]

When the tank comes in, I will post a PIC. If you like it, I will put you in direct touch with RCI. I promised them that there would be a market. I think it's a big market!