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Hello everyone,
I have a 66 mustang C code coupe I am working that is a hot rod not a concours restoration. Eventually, I plan to replace all the wiring in the car but for now I am just getting the car back to road worthy status.

My fuse box is trash and plan to replace wiring in the entire car, but for now I am going to replace the fuse box with a powered fuse holder with modern fuses.

I purchases this box from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/OLS-10-Way-Blade-Indicator-Protection/dp/B00QMULSUI

Which wire going into the fuse box needs to be used to power the box from the ignition? I moved the blue / red wires for the lights on an independent fuse since it doesn’t actually receive power from the box.

Thanks,
Chris
 

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Hello everyone,
I have a 66 mustang C code coupe I am working that is a hot rod not a concours restoration. Eventually, I plan to replace all the wiring in the car but for now I am just getting the car back to road worthy status.

My fuse box is trash and plan to replace wiring in the entire car, but for now I am going to replace the fuse box with a powered fuse holder with modern fuses.

I purchases this box from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/OLS-10-Way-Blade-Indicator-Protection/dp/B00QMULSUI

Which wire going into the fuse box needs to be used to power the box from the ignition? I moved the blue / red wires for the lights on an independent fuse since it doesn’t actually receive power from the box.

Thanks,
Chris
In the stock setup power to the ignition system does not go thru the fuse box. It comes directly off the C (coil) terminal on the ignition switch.

Im not sure I understand what you are doing with your lights but in the stock setup:

Headlights are powered thru the 12A CB in the headlight switch that is connected directly to the battery (does not go thru fuse box).

Parking lights, running lights, side marker lights (68+), brake lights, and horn(s) are powered thru the 15A CB inside the headlight switch that is connected directly to the battery (does not go thru fuse box)

Turn signal lamps and back up lamps are powered thru the 14A ACCY fuse

Instrument cluster lights are powered thru the 2.5A INS ILL fuse which itself is powered from the 15A CB in the headlight switch.

Interior lights are powered thru the 20A DOME fuse

Good luck
Paul
 

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The original fuse box received its power from a couple different sources, as stated above. The power for the instrument illumination fuse came from the headlamp switch.
The power for backup lamps, radio, shift indicator, and turn signals came from the "A" terminal of the ignition switch.
The power for the heater fan came from the "C" terminal on the ignition switch (at least mine does...no heater fan operation in Accessory position).
The power for the dome/courtesy/console lights and clock came from the battery, as does the power for the cigar lighter and hazard flashers.
 

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Even though this post was made a while ago I thought that it was worth mentioning that it is also possible to replace the terminals in the original fuse box, breathing new life. I performed this and my restored fuse box has been flawless since all of the rust was removed.

https://www.cjponyparts.com/fuse-box-repair-kit-1965-1968/p/HW2906/

While doing this it is also a nice touch to white letter the labels on each terminal so that they are easier to read. I'm attaching a picture for inspiration.
 

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Do yourself a favor and pick up a wiring diagram manual, it will save you a lot of angst (learned that word from a former girl friend..!).
 
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