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Garage Floor Coating Options

1464 Views 41 Replies 27 Participants Last post by  Kjsmitty
Hey everyone,

Since I am creating a new space to restore my car in my outdoor shed/workshop, I thought that I might coat the cement floor to make working on things in there more enjoyable. It isn't a terribly huge space (roughly 16x24 or so) in the garage bay portion. What has worked and what has not for people? I have seen the Rustoleum Epoxy kits at Home Depot, and I have heard of these multi-thousand dollar jobs by professionals. Not looking for the professional job, but wondering what good do-it-yourself kits people have had experience with that will not break budgets.
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The key is in the prep work, just like automotive body work. The concrete needs to be cleaned and all laitance removed then acid etched so the coating will adhere. I've used Spartan Chemical "New Generation" with good results but it's a little "pricey" for the DIY'er. I haven't used the Rustoleum but have heard good things about it.
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There is great information here, too https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/forums/flooring.20/
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I was on the same boat with my shop. I like to coat it with 10w-40, 10w-30, and sometimes Type F. Ethyl Glycol spreads fairly quickly while 90 weight does not. Regardless, I'm pretty sure I've sealed up all the cracks and crevices!! lol
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The key is in the prep work, just like automotive body work. The concrete needs to be cleaned and all laitance removed then acid etched so the coating will adhere. I've used Spartan Chemical "New Generation" with good results but it's a little "pricey" for the DIY'er. I haven't used the Rustoleum but have heard good things about it.
Sorry, all what has to be removed prior to acid etching?
Consider a solid color. The flecks are an awesome camouflage for small parts that are dropped. Lighter colors will reflect light better.
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Laitance is the weak, milky or powdery layer of cement dust, lime and sand fines that appear on the surface of concrete. These fines rise to the surface of concrete that was over-watered, or allowed to dry prematurely in the absence of curing membranes or other good curing practices.
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When faced with the same dilemma during my 2006 garage build project, I decided to leave it bare.

I have not regretted that choice.
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I've looked at garage coatings as well as coverings like Racedeck etc. If you are rough on flooring or you plan on welding/cutting, heavy grinding etc then don't even bother. I've worked in countless machine shops where they've coated areas or even the entire shop only to have it look like heck in a few months.
My garage floors have remained as poured due to how rough I am on them, not sure any coating I'd lay down would look ok for very long.
In my wifes salon we had a crew come in and grind the cement to expose the aggregate surface then had it epoxy coated as opposed to any other type of flooring. It has worn well to foot traffic but scratches very easily.
Racedeck type flooring and even tiling like you'd find in the old automotive shops will stand up to a bit of abuse and is replaceable to some extent but still can't stand up to rough service or heavy equipment.
Tires parked on these surfaces are not your friend either, many have to use pads under their tires etc so that damage doesn't occur when they are moved.
I'm hopeful someone here has had better luck and or new ideas because I too would like a nicer looking floor in my shop.
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I had great success with DIY Rustoleum epoxy floor coating...BUT... it has to be the solvent based version, not water based, and on a new concrete (or professionally ground) floor. It has been impervious to various solvents and fluids and is holding up well to normal garage usage.
Consider a solid color. The flecks are an awesome camouflage for small parts that are dropped. Lighter colors will reflect light better.
That's a good point. I'm not even looking to make it fancy, just neat, tidy, and overall clean. So that's a good idea.

Laitance is the weak, milky or powdery layer of cement dust, lime and sand fines that appear on the surface of concrete. These fines rise to the surface of concrete that was over-watered, or allowed to dry prematurely in the absence of curing membranes or other good curing practices.
How does one rinse this off?
I used UCoatit in the sheetmetal shop of my last place of employment. Easy to apply, looks great and wears well. Easy to touch up too. Cost is more than the Rustoleum kits, but you get what you pay for here.



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That's a good point. I'm not even looking to make it fancy, just neat, tidy, and overall clean. So that's a good idea.



How does one rinse this off?
The point of the acid etch is to eat through the weak layer and create a rougher layer to bite onto. Rinse the acid with water. Portland cement is alkaline by nature, so it will neutralize any dilute acid that might remain.

Understand too that without an abrasive additive the surface can be slick as snot if wet or oily.
If you are rough on flooring or you plan on welding/cutting, heavy grinding etc then don't even bother. I've worked in countless machine shops where they've coated areas or even the entire shop only to have it look like heck in a few months.
The good thing is that all that sort of thing is going to go on in the workshop area, which will not be coated.
Also, the current floor is textured and not smooth like most garages. How would this affect things?
My largest regret in the old garage with the rustolenum kit was not doing a clear coat or top coat. Hindsight says it was a no-brainer that I should have added it but without the clearcoat everything ends up working its way off the floor eventually. That and I had thought "oh those cracks will just fill in" but they didn't lol! If DIY, spend the time to fill/seal all the cracks (minus expansion joints) beforehand and it'll look better.

I believe ArmorSeal 650 (sherwin product) is what a couple of our clients use in the plant. It's a two-part epoxy coating. Most I've seen also have a grit mixed in for the floors. Whatever it is, usually is tough as nails surviving in a NPP but they do take good care of it. I was interested in using that in the new garage, with the idea that I think it would be easier to repair if needed (vs a base/flake/top coat type application).
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How about some photos of coated floors after 5 or 6 years of moderate use?
When I built my garage I had the floor professionally done with epoxy. They first micro-ground the almost new surface and filled in the joints to the old garage floor. I did a solid light color. The solid color makes it easy to find stuff you drop and the light color adds a little brightness to the garage. It's only a couple of years old. It was easy to clean up an oil spill and small drips from the car.
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I used the "Rustoleum epoxy floor coating " Right when I moved into a newly built house almost 17 years ago. I still used the Acid cleaning solution. It has held up pretty darn well. I did put the clear coat on it looked very cool when new. Unfortunately the garage gets the morning sun . The sun has turned the clear coat yellowish closest to the garage door. I have read that all clear will yellow eventually. But I still love it. I can clean it and then use mop & glow and it will shine up real nice. My friend did get hot tire yellowing when parking his daily driver right after a long drive. I have not experienced this ,because a let my car sit for awhile before putting it away. One thing to consider when using the epoxy coating is that the to re-apply you have to grind most of it away because the new epoxy wont stick to the old application. Good Luck

Just completed almost 17 years ago gray with blue white and black flecks. It has not pealed or come off anywhere.


16 years latter by the garage door


farthest away from garage door without Mop & Glow.

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I know this is not a garage floor but these pics do show another option and one I've considered for my floor. As I said above, I decided to not go with colour on the floor of my wife's salon but instead had it ground to expose the natural aggregate in the cement and have the clear epoxy bring out the natural colours of the stones. I see so many people use clear and light colour only to have to sprinkle colour chips onto it for effect. The nature stone that is used to create cement will give you all the colour you want and may hide scratches etc a bit better.

This after I gutted the place


The crew grinding the top off the cement to expose the aggregate and prep for epoxy


These guys had endless options...all it takes is $$$$$$$$$ (my option was the cheapest :LOL: )


Finished look without lighting




The salon fully finished and lit after 2 years, it has managed to stand up to daily traffic quite well. There are a few scratches from people dragging metal objects across the floor etc but even they mask off quite well due to the natural stone look. I'm thinking the scratches would show so much more if the floor had colouring of any kind.
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