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Discussion Starter #1
I had an earlier post detailing how I installed my 289 after a couple of years of body work. the engine was on the stand during that time. I installed new fuel pump, newly rebuilt carb, water pump, etc...not a rebuild of the engine though.

I primed the oil pump, put some marvel mystery oil in each cylinder, connect the carb to a temporary fuel container with non-ethanol gas. set the timing to about -10 degrees of tdc, turned the key and it fired up right away! I then put on the h-pipe and muffler pipes all the way to the dual exhaust mufflers.

Now the car wont run. It fires/revs for a second and then dies. It is getting spark, not sure what is now causing it not to run. It was flooding but I think that was my fault from the accelerator pump. I put the original carb back on and get the same result. I have not yet taken off the exhaust system to see if it will run again.

I am getting fuel and spark, is it possible/likely the timing is way off?

Perplexed
 

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It sounds like you're having a fuel supply issue. If the fuel has evaporated from the carb, the fuel pump will have a tough time refilling it. I'd double check to make sure you're getting fuel to the carb. Remove the fuel line from the carb and put a piece of hose on the line and into a container. Remove the coil wire from the coil then crank the engine over. You should get a supply of fuel into the container. And check all your fuel line connections from the carb back to the line that goes to the tank. A loose connection will allow fuel to drain back to the tank.
 

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It could be the timing. I've had fairly good luck getting the timing close by using an inductive timing light hooked to #1 cylinder, rotating the engine with a breaker bar until the timing marks are about 8 degrees BTDC, rotating the distributor counter clockwise until the timing light flashes and locking it down there. You have to have the ignition switch in the "run" setting (not "start") in order for this to work.

Let's you get the timing close enough that the engine should start....then you can set it right once you can get it running and warmed up.

If your distributor hold down was loose, your timing could have slipped between now and when it ran.

Phil
 

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Do you have electronic ignition module? When those go bad, they can work for a short time then instantly stop working. Also, if such a module is not installed correctly with the correct thermal grease, they can overheat and stop working very quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks for the suggestions.

I am getting plenty of fuel, I acutally flooded the engine pretty bad and thought the float was stuck, it wasn't I probably flooded it myself with the accelerator pump. it ran without the exhaust system and manifolds only. thought that it just burned or shot out the excess fuel. it is now getting fuel, reving then dying.


I had to reset the timing as I pulled the distributor to prime the oil pump. I found top dead center (pretty sure it was on the compression stroke) then set timing about 10 degrees before top dead center. again the car ran without the exhaust system installed. very strange to me.

No electronic ignition module. straight forward original distributor.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
if the timing was off would it run without the exhaust system? could be a couple of things maybe I was pouring fuel into the engine and it was just firing without the timing being close and shooting all of the excess fuel out?

I know i was flooding the engine as the new exhaust pipes (h-pipe) and muffler pipes on the dual exaaust were dripping oily fule at the loose connections as I hadn't tightened it down yet.
 

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Could be;

fouled out plugs
coil carping out
points carping out
still may be flooding the engine
if you had a good back fire and a power valve it might be blown
floats too high dumping gas or carb is starved out for gas
partially clogged fuel filter
everything everybody else already said too

good luck - things like this for me force me to go back to the fundamental spark, air and fuel, timing, carb and so on and all assumptions are thrown so its like a start for the first time deal
 

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Try temporarily running a jumper wire from the positive post of the battery to positive terminal on the coil and see if it stays running. I'm thinking you may have a bad resistor wire or ignition switch. When you crank, the ignition switch by passes the resistor wire. When you release the key to run, the ignition switch goes to the resistor wire. This would allow the engine to fire when cranking but stop when the key is released
 

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I think you have multiple issues going on. Get the timing locked down where it needs to be first. Then check the float level. If the needle and seat are stuck open you will see it pouring fuel out of the vent tubes. You can pull the carb and blow into the fuel line inlet. Then flip the carb upside down, the needle and seat should shut and you will no longer be able to blow through it. I do that with every carb rebuild before I install the carb. There is a good chance the plugs are now fouled. You will need to pull them and if they are wet dry them off with brake clean. Then crank the engine a few times to blowout any fuel out of the cylinders.

The fact that it will not run with the exhaust hooked tells me the exhaust could be plugged. If sat around on the floor it could have rat nests in it. Exhaust pipes and mufflers make perfect rat condos.
 

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I think you have multiple issues going on. Get the timing locked down where it needs to be first. Then check the float level. If the needle and seat are stuck open you will see it pouring fuel out of the vent tubes. You can pull the carb and blow into the fuel line inlet. Then flip the carb upside down, the needle and seat should shut and you will no longer be able to blow through it. I do that with every carb rebuild before I install the carb. There is a good chance the plugs are now fouled. You will need to pull them and if they are wet dry them off with brake clean. Then crank the engine a few times to blowout any fuel out of the cylinders.

The fact that it will not run with the exhaust hooked tells me the exhaust could be plugged. If sat around on the floor it could have rat nests in it. Exhaust pipes and mufflers make perfect rat condos.
The LAST Paragraph of what he said (& I as waiting & waiting for someone to state the obvious) : * Blocked d* Muffler exhaust pipe somewhere down the system Dr m some critter making it home over 2 years...get an industrial Vac or compressed Air & blow up the Tailpipe & what remanents blow back ? - if any ?.
If it runs free not corked up but chokes with exhaust system hooked, why go off scattergun thinking Carb or Ign timing or corona virus etc.
Kiss: keep it simple Sam.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thx all, I can’t tell you how much I appreciate the input. Brand new dual exhaust. No critters.

Getting plenty of fuel.

Brand new plugs, coil is throwing spark.

Ran without the h pipe back with a rebuilt carb. New carb won’t run with exhaust system in nor will the original carb I tried. Just for grins I am going to take the muffler pipes off and try it.
 

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Try temporarily running a jumper wire from the positive post of the battery to positive terminal on the coil and see if it stays running. I'm thinking you may have a bad resistor wire or ignition switch. When you crank, the ignition switch by passes the resistor wire. When you release the key to run, the ignition switch goes to the resistor wire. This would allow the engine to fire when cranking but stop when the key is released
Tom, I think you hit the nail on the head. Whenever you're cranking the engine the solenoid bypass will be in effect and you'll get a nice blue spark. The minute you release the key from the "START" position the solenoid opens and the spark goes "bye bye".
 

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Thx all, I can’t tell you how much I appreciate the input. Brand new dual exhaust. No critters.

Getting plenty of fuel.

Brand new plugs, coil is throwing spark.

Ran without the h pipe back with a rebuilt carb. New carb won’t run with exhaust system in nor will the original carb I tried. Just for grins I am going to take the muffler pipes off and try it.
Awaiting result...
:unsure::unsure:
 

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Nothing, meaning no starting or no cranking? You always need to specify which it is.

You said it has plenty of fuel. Does that mean fuel coming out of the carburetor, accelerator pump squirting.

You have spark but is it happening at the correct time? You check it with the key on, engine cranking and hooked to number one. You should be able to see the timing mark.

The distributor could be have been installed on the exhaust stroke and not the compression. On the compression stroke the piston will not blow your finger off of the spark plug hole and the compression stroke it will. Huge difference, you can't confuse the two.

Are the plug wires in the correct order?

Finding TDC
 

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Just pulled mufflers, turned the key.........nothin:(
: what Woodchuck & VMG said above - again, keeping it simple, make sure you're there's gas in the carb by seeing if pump shooters down carb throat squirt.
Keeping it simple: as Woodchuck says: Hotwire it running direct hot juice +12V from batt terminal to + terminal on coil (opposite side t points/reluctor etc terminal) thins bipasses and bad Ign switch or dropping resistor & see if it will fire.
IF no fire pull #1 lead & pop a fresh plug in that cap & ground plug case & see if any spark.
IF so then see if its timed to TDC on firingvstroke (not by SME chance 180° out)
Sometimes if still running points, a bad points wire where it exists the dist side can go open circuit intermittently & intermittent faults are the dangest to find.
Keep going through process of elimination.
Don't forget you need spark, gas & comp to run.
Keep trying.
HRT
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thank again to everyone. My symptoms are the same as another very recent post titled “spark, air, & fuel?”. Woodchuck recommended checking points and condenser. Apologies to the very brief recent response of mine “nothin” should have said “samething”. Fires for a second then dies. The recent suggestions are awesome. Thank you. for clarity i will re-tell the history (apologies for the length).

Pulled motor (289, built july 1964) to basically redo everything on the car (64 1/2 vert built april9/10 1964 discrepency with the motor is another mystery to be discussed later), short of rebuilding the motor.
engine was on stand for about 2 1/2 years
engine was rebuilt about 6,000 miles ago

i have basically replaced every component in the car and on the engine short of an engine rebuild
i will start from the ignition switch

1) new ignition switch
2) all new wiring, harnesses down to the plug wires, took great care to ensure they are to correct cylinders
3) new fuel pump
4) new yellow top coil, starter, solenoid, new spark plugs gapped correctly
5) newly rebuilt carburetor
6) new water pump
7) brand new dual exhaust system (no rats nests and not plugged Up)
8) generator is not yet installed
9) fuel tank is not installed so i ran a piece of fuel hose from the new fuel pump to a can of ethanol free gas.
10) Pulled distributor to prime oil pump, squirted a bit of marvel mystery oil in each cylinder
11) set timing at 10btdc on what i “think” is the compression stroke, i say “think” because my son was turning the crank with a breaker bar and i was monitoring the compression at the cylinder with a gauge and fairly certain we identified the compression stroke.
12) rebuilt transmission installed along with new drive shaft and rebuilt/restored rear end.

Trial run number 1
prior to putting on the h-pipe and mufflers on the 2” dual exhaust, i had my son turn the key while i held the choke down, gave a pump to the accelerator pump and BAM, after 2 1/2 years on the stand the engine ran on the first turn of the key! I didn’t let it run long because i needed to get more trans fluid in and wanted to get the exhaust system in to hear how my reborn baby would purr. I did start it two more times but only for 10 seconds or so at a time.

I then proceeded to install the new exhaust system

Trial run number 2
with everything else the same as trial run number 1 with the addition of the h-pipe loosely connected and the muffler pipes hung from the mufflers but no muffler clamps, we went to turn the key to hear it purr.....Wouldn't start. We tried several times to which i flooded the engine. fuel/oil was dripping from the hi-pipe connection to the muffler pipe. Now I wasn’t sure if it was flooding without the exhaust system on When it ran with open exhaust manifolds. I pulled the carb off, checked for a stuck float or anything else. I adjusted the float down a little bit. Pulled, sprayed the plugs with carb cleaner and dried them.

Trial run number 3
Put the carb back and fired up the engine.....Same thing would sputter for a second then die. I am now pretty sure I flooded the engine by with pumping the accelerator pump by hand while trying to start. This time i went easy on the accelerator pump, no flooding but wouldn’t start.

Trial run number 4
put to old carb back on, tried things again, same result, would sputter then die.

Trial run number 5 and last one so far
Still with the old carb in place, pulled mufflers and got same result, would sputter then die.

WHEW, if you are still with my (you are a saint) thank you. I wanted to be crystal clear as to my steps because the wonderful people here trying to help me are offering their valuable time and expertise.

I have no idea why the engine ran on the first few attempts and then did not once i installed the exhaust system and now wont run at all. Baffled as to what could have changed.

Based on the advice from woodchuck, to me and the post titled “spark, air, & fuel?”, and the advice from VMG and highrevtrev,i am thinking i should check timing, points, condenser....I will also try jumping the coil, but the imagination switch is brand new and it ran once.

keep you posted.....
 

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Do attach a temporary jumper wire from the battery + post to the coil + terminal as has been mentioned countless times. Do not buy or replace anything else until you try this.
 
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