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Discussion Starter #21
Have some time today, stuck at home like the rest of the country. Will start with the jumper as suggested. Will check the neutral starter switch, but dont think that is it as the car does fire, manifolds. get warm, but wont run....
 

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The neutral safety switch only determines whether the car will crank It has nothing to do with the neutral safety switch as that circuit has nothing to do with ignition.

You seem to have ignition while cranking. Installing a jumper will verify the majority of ignition component and narrow the problem down considerably.
 

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You state that you flooded the engine with gas. Spark plugs don't like to be flooded. Pull them out and run a propane torch over the tips or run them through a spark plug cleaner like this:

You state that you have an original points style distributor. Did you put in new points and condenser? If so did you buy cheap chinese crap parts or did you buy Standard Blue Streak? I wouldn't be at all surprised if you report back that you have gone and bought and installed Blue Streak parts and now the engine starts and runs.
 

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Fuel pouring or dripping from the exhaust would be bad. I’m trying fathom how much fuel would need to be pumped through the engine for that to happen.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Ok, getting somewhere, instead of jumping to the positive side of the coil, i put a multimeter on the wire that goes to the coil. when in the “on” position, no voltage. When the key is turned to start, there is voltage at the wire that connects to the coil, when released back to the “on” position, no voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
update. With The h-pipe removed, the newly rebuilt carburetor back in place, i Jumped from the positive battery terminal to the positive side of the coil, turned key and the car ran (roughly, very smokey). But again flooded Very badly. Fuel was dripping from the exhaust manifold on the right side.

fuel pump is new also. I previously did a test where i disconnected the coil so the engine would start, cranked to run the fuel pump. Seemed like the float was working and fuel reservoir in carb not overflowing. Seems the fuel is running through the carb. I also previously turned both adjustmen screws gently all the way in and backed out 1 1/2 turns.. How could some much fuel be getting through the carb. I know this time i didn’t go crazy on the accelerator pump.

need to dry out the plugs, and eventually change the oil as it is probably now contaminated with fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
You state that you flooded the engine with gas. Spark plugs don't like to be flooded. Pull them out and run a propane torch over the tips or run them through a spark plug cleaner like this:

You state that you have an original points style distributor. Did you put in new points and condenser? If so did you buy cheap chinese crap parts or did you buy Standard Blue Streak? I wouldn't be at all surprised if you report back that you have gone and bought and installed Blue Streak parts and now the engine starts and runs.
No new points or condenser, all original to the engine that i pulled prior to the body work. Did change all wiring, coil, and plugs. I did change the distributor cap.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Thanks
The neutral safety switch only determines whether the car will crank It has nothing to do with the neutral safety switch as that circuit has nothing to do with ignition.

You seem to have ignition while cranking. Installing a jumper will verify the majority of ignition component and narrow the problem down considerably.
thanks royce, ran with the jumper, also did not have voltage at the wire when the key was in the on position. Does this mean my new ignition switch is bad?
 

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Thanks

thanks royce, ran with the jumper, also did not have voltage at the wire when the key was in the on position. Does this mean my new ignition switch is bad?
It probably means there is a wire disconnected somewhere. Is the "I" terminal on the starter solenoid plugged in and making a good connection? That is where power comes from when the key is in the "Start" position. The other possibility would be at the ignition switch, that wire is a pink "resistor wire" that goes from the switch to the firewall.
 

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Thanks

thanks royce, ran with the jumper, also did not have voltage at the wire when the key was in the on position. Does this mean my new ignition switch is bad?
If memory serves me and I don't know if this may be the culprit but on the back of the ignition switch there is threaded post. This post has a black that is placed on the post and the connector is held in place by a nut. I've had this nut come loose or maybe it was never tightened down all the way to begin with but if it connects and comes loose you'll lose power. The is a free fix if that is the culprit.
 

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The wire out of the ignition switch that powers the coil with the key in the On or Run position is a red/green wire that is about 4" long and terminates with a female bullet plug receptacle. The infamous Pink wire is plugged into that female bullet and terminates at the cabin side of the firewall connector. On the engine side of the firewall connector there are 2 wires that mate with the Pink wire- a red/green and a brown. The red/green goes to the + side of the coil. The brown goes to the I post on the fender apron solenoid.
With the key in the Run position power goes through the Pink wire to the firewall. On the other side of the firewall power goes through the brown wire to the I post on the solenoid where it dead ends and does nothing. Power also goes through the red/green wire where it powers (<12V) the coil.
With the key in the Start position the red/green wire out of the switch is dead. Power goes through a red/blue wire to the S post on the starter solenoid and energizes the solenoid. When the solenoid is energized an internal contact is made to the I post and sends power (12V) to the brown wire. Power flows from the brown wire back to the firewall connector where it splices into the red/green wire and goes to the coil. The brown wire also sends power to the Pink wire at the firewall but since the Pink wire is dead with the key in the Start position nothing happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
SUCCESS!!!


Ok, i have to start by saying that the people on this forum are truly AMAZING! I can not begin to tell everyone how grateful i am. Short story....on installing the new wiring harness, i did not connect the ”infamous pink wire” to the dual red-green stripe/black-green stripe female connector.

I connected it and i now have power at the could when the ignition switch is in the “Run” position. Thank you to all who diagnosed this and especially AWTX who even called out the wiring colors And connections. I was able to educate myself with the Jim Osborn reproductions of the wiring diagrams and wiring assembly diagrams.


Now on to part two of my dilemma....

Question 1. Why did the car run the first time the very first time i fired it up? Is it possible there was charge in the coil? Or somehow because fuel was po am not really concerned in investigating this but it is Interesting. It is time to move forward

question 2. And now most important. Why is my fuel system pouring gas into the engine. When i ran it yesterday with the jumper from positive battery terminal to the coil, i had my sone working the key while i was at the carburetor. The carb is a newly rebuilt carb i bought on eBay. I definitely did not over pump the accelerator pump. The car ran and again fuel was dripping out of the right exhaust manifold. The carb is “new”, i also replaced my fuel pump. When i had the motor out, i pulled of the intake manifold to clean and paint it. Put back with new gaskets, etc....

if i can get help on this like the wiring, I’m buying the beers post social distancing....

In advance, all help appreciated....
 

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I would say that the carb has an issue. Put the other carb you have on and see if you get the same results. Fuel goes in the carb and the needle valve should halt the flow of gas into the carb if it seating properly. I couldn't see what carb you have but if it's a 4100 you can take the cover off of the fuel bowls and see if the needle valve is seating properly. Disconnect the coil wire and crank the engine. If the bowl is full it shouldn't allow anymore fuel into the bowl.
 

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Q1- ???

Q2- The factory mechanical fuel pump is designed to deliver fuel to the carb at around 5-7 psi. Some of the aftermarket pumps supply fuel to the carb at 10+ psi. At that pressure the fuel can actually push the needle off of the seat and flood the bowl. A pressure regulator is required to lower the pressure.
Since you bought a rebuilt carb maybe the rebuilder didn't set the float level properly?
 

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SUCCESS!!!


Ok, i have to start by saying that the people on this forum are truly AMAZING! I can not begin to tell everyone how grateful i am. Short story....on installing the new wiring harness, i did not connect the ”infamous pink wire” to the dual red-green stripe/black-green stripe female connector.

I connected it and i now have power at the could when the ignition switch is in the “Run” position. Thank you to all who diagnosed this and especially AWTX who even called out the wiring colors And connections. I was able to educate myself with the Jim Osborn reproductions of the wiring diagrams and wiring assembly diagrams.


Now on to part two of my dilemma....

Question 1. Why did the car run the first time the very first time i fired it up? Is it possible there was charge in the coil? Or somehow because fuel was po am not really concerned in investigating this but it is Interesting. It is time to move forward

question 2. And now most important. Why is my fuel system pouring gas into the engine. When i ran it yesterday with the jumper from positive battery terminal to the coil, i had my sone working the key while i was at the carburetor. The carb is a newly rebuilt carb i bought on eBay. I definitely did not over pump the accelerator pump. The car ran and again fuel was dripping out of the right exhaust manifold. The carb is “new”, i also replaced my fuel pump. When i had the motor out, i pulled of the intake manifold to clean and paint it. Put back with new gaskets, etc....

if i can get help on this like the wiring, I’m buying the beers post social distancing....

In advance, all help appreciated....
I recommend pulling the dipstick and smelling it for gasoline. That much gas getting into the cylinders has to have gotten past the rings into the oil. You don't want a detonation in the oil pan.
 

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SUCCESS!!!


Ok, i have to start by saying that the people on this forum are truly AMAZING! I can not begin to tell everyone how grateful i am. Short story....on installing the new wiring harness, i did not connect the ”infamous pink wire” to the dual red-green stripe/black-green stripe female connector.

I connected it and i now have power at the could when the ignition switch is in the “Run” position. Thank you to all who diagnosed this and especially AWTX who even called out the wiring colors And connections. I was able to educate myself with the Jim Osborn reproductions of the wiring diagrams and wiring assembly diagrams.


Now on to part two of my dilemma....

Question 1. Why did the car run the first time the very first time i fired it up? Is it possible there was charge in the coil? Or somehow because fuel was po am not really concerned in investigating this but it is Interesting. It is time to move forward

question 2. And now most important. Why is my fuel system pouring gas into the engine. When i ran it yesterday with the jumper from positive battery terminal to the coil, i had my sone working the key while i was at the carburetor. The carb is a newly rebuilt carb i bought on eBay. I definitely did not over pump the accelerator pump. The car ran and again fuel was dripping out of the right exhaust manifold. The carb is “new”, i also replaced my fuel pump. When i had the motor out, i pulled of the intake manifold to clean and paint it. Put back with new gaskets, etc....

if i can get help on this like the wiring, I’m buying the beers post social distancing....

In advance, all help appreciated....
I was originally going to say (Generically) Bad ballast resistor : NO 12 or rather 9volts to coil with Ign switch in run/on position
2/ Dirt under the carbs inlet needle/seat usually from installation, leading to high float level/carb flooding (fuel out Exh outlet/s - black smoke running...
1 fault exacerbating the other.
3/ Condensors 99% of the time WORK Only usually give trouble in high vibration/high heat use age like Briggs & Stratton engine use age.
Don't blindly blame/change them.

Pull off the carb, turn it upside down, blow on the inlet pipe & if it seals/holds air, look to excessive fuel pump pressure )like 7+Lbs).
Keep going & goodluck.
 
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