Getting ready to buy some parts...help

3264 Views 21 Replies 10 Participants Last post by dale1bre, Dec 17, 2014

dale1bre

Discussion Starter · Dec 16, 2014

Looking at getting this brake conversion kit

Wilwood 140-13476-D Mustang Disc Drilled Slotted 65-66/67-69

And this suspension kit:

1965-73 Suspension Kit 4 - Missouri Mustang

All input appreciated. I'm not going for a race car here or anything, just want to replace old nasty suspension with new parts, and put disc brakes on the front. Yes i will do the drop on the front.

Thanks guys.

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

JPIII

· #2 · Dec 16, 2014 (Edited)

I used that set-up front & rear....also the Wilwood MC...Wilwood High-Performance Disc Brakes - MasterCylinder No: 260-12900-P

Porp. valve also......http://www.wilwood.com/Images/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinder_Photos-Large/260-13190-lg.jpg... mounts to the MC.

All not cheep.

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dale1bre

Discussion Starter · #3 · Dec 16, 2014

JPIII said:
I used that set-up front & rear....also the Wilwood MC...Wilwood High-Performance Disc Brakes - MasterCylinder No: 260-12900-P

Porp. valve also......http://www.wilwood.com/Images/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinder_Photos-Large/260-13190-lg.jpg... mounts to the MC.

All not cheep.

If I am leaving backs as drums for now, should I get that master cylinder, or should I just get a basic one?

JPIII

· #4 · Dec 16, 2014

You'll need a dual MC....if not the Wilwood, then something else. You'll also need a proportioning valve (repeat from above). That MC is a 15/16 bore & works fine for me.

The rear disc install is more of a PITA than the fronts which (I think) is why most people here avoid them.

Klutch

· #5 · Dec 16, 2014

If you're not racing, you don't need Wilwood brakes. Nothing wrong with them; just a lot of expense and fitment issues when you really don't need it.

FYI, the Kelsey Hayes disc brakes are very good, they bolt right on and they were used on the Shelby Mustants. They're not cheap, but should be less than Wilwood hardware.

dale1bre

Discussion Starter · #6 · Dec 16, 2014

Klutch said:
If you're not racing, you don't need Wilwood brakes. Nothing wrong with them; just a lot of expense and fitment issues when you really don't need it.

FYI, the Kelsey Hayes disc brakes are very good, they bolt right on and they were used on the Shelby Mustants. They're not cheap, but should be less than Wilwood hardware.

Hmm, what fitment issues? I just want with a basic kit for the WIllwoods. Didn't think $575 was that bad.

Klutch

· #7 · Dec 16, 2014 (Edited)

dale1bre said:
Hmm, what fitment issues? I just want with a basic kit for the WIllwoods. Didn't think $575 was that bad.

That does sound like a reasonable price. Are you sure it includes everything you need? Will the Wilwood rotors fit on your current spindles? Will the calipers bolt onto your current spindles? Is the master cylinder a bolt-on? Is the master cylinder compatible with your brake pedal assembly? Will your current wheels fit over the Wilwood rotors?

If so, great. I honestly don't know.

EDIT: The kit you linked doesn't appear to include a master cylinder or a proportioning valve. The price I see is $675.

For the suspension, that looks like a nice kit. You might consider roller perches over the factory-style rubber bushing perches.

restodude

· #8 · Dec 16, 2014

The older wilwood brake kit with aluminum hubs had larger rotors and spaced out the wheels 1/2 inch per side. The kit you linked has new smaller rotors and does not alter the track width. The calipers are basically an updated version of the original style 4 piston calipers with aluminum and internal passages rather than cast iron and external crossover lines. It is a nice kit and looks good through the wheels. You can run a stock 67 dual bowl master cylinder for manual disc brakes and add a proportioning valve into the rear line.

As far as the suspension kit I would ask who the manufacturer is as some of the generics are poor quality.

Rick

dale1bre

Discussion Starter · #9 · Dec 16, 2014

Klutch said:
That does sound like a reasonable price. Are you sure it includes everything you need? Will the Wilwood rotors fit on your current spindles? Will the calipers bolt onto your current spindles? Is the master cylinder a bolt-on? Is the master cylinder compatible with your brake pedal assembly? Will your current wheels fit over the Wilwood rotors?

If so, great. I honestly don't know.

EDIT: The kit you linked doesn't appear to include a master cylinder or a proportioning valve. The price I see is $675.

For the suspension, that looks like a nice kit. You might consider roller perches over the factory-style rubber bushing perches.

All good questions. I actually linked to the wrong one:

Wilwood 140-13476 Mustang Disc Brake Dynalite V8 65-66/67-69

Also looking at this master cylinder:

Mustang Dual Bowl Master Cylinder Conversion Kit - Non Power Disc Brakes OE Lines 1965-1966 | CJ Pony Parts

No idea on what proportioning valve to get. Don't know about spindles or other things. Don't have wheels yet, so I'll just have to make sure i get the right ones when i do. I talked to the guys at CJ Pony, they said it should just bolt right on, and that I would need to get that proportioning valve. Any suggestions?

dale1bre

Discussion Starter · #10 · Dec 16, 2014

restodude said:
The older wilwood brake kit with aluminum hubs had larger rotors and spaced out the wheels 1/2 inch per side. The kit you linked has new smaller rotors and does not alter the track width. The calipers are basically an updated version of the original style 4 piston calipers with aluminum and internal passages rather than cast iron and external crossover lines. It is a nice kit and looks good through the wheels. You can run a stock 67 dual bowl master cylinder for manual disc brakes and add a proportioning valve into the rear line.

As far as the suspension kit I would ask who the manufacturer is as some of the generics are poor quality.

Rick

Thanks. I'm basically looking to put all new parts on the front of this car, and kind of winging it here. I don't want to spend a TON of money on the suspension kits, so if anyone has suggestions, I'll gladly listen, or should I just sand blast the old ones, paint, and get all new rubber and bushings and shocks and springs?

Franks68coupe

· #11 · Dec 16, 2014

I would recommend something like this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ssb-a0730pl

jdub

· #12 · Dec 16, 2014

You don't need that suspension "kit." I'd get Moog upper and lower arms, then get only the bits you actually need.

dale1bre

Discussion Starter · #13 · Dec 16, 2014

Franks68coupe said:
I would recommend something like this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ssb-a0730pl

Thanks man!

dale1bre

Discussion Starter · #14 · Dec 16, 2014

Any suggestions on just a good replacement suspension kit?

ross88man

· #15 · Dec 17, 2014

Contact John at opentracker, he will set you up with good quality parts at whatever price point you want to spend.
Opentracker Racing Products

Search this forum, lots of good input here.

69Mach390

· #16 · Dec 17, 2014 (Edited)

dale1bre said:
Any suggestions on just a good replacement suspension kit?

Like he said, opentracker is a good place to start.

I wouldn't get that kit you linked though. You can piece it out cheaper and who knows if that one is any good.

I'm happy with the parts I bought. Took me forever to research everything. Ended up with this setup:

$505 mustangsplus Grab-a-trak shocks, 620 springs, 4.5 mid eye leafs, and 1" sway kit

$165 mustangsplus steering rebuild kit
$199 Opentracker roller spring perches
$225 Opentracker upper control arms
$88 Moog lower control arms
$25 Rubber strut rod bushings
Total- $1207 plus shipping

That was a year ago, prices may vary

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JPIII

· #17 · Dec 17, 2014 (Edited)

No "fitment issues" with the Wilwoods as long as you follow the directions. There was some thrashing around on the rears, however.

I went with S or T's Bilstein coilover front suspension...http://www.streetortrack.com/Street-or-Track-Front-Coilover-System-pr-24491.html.. no "fittment issues" issues there either.....not that anyone who has never BTDT would know the difference anyhow. The S or T set up is NOT CHEAP....just the best, IMO.......with all the adjustment that I can think of. I have this "thing" about using good stuff....something about doing a job once...must be a character flaw.

happystang

· #18 · Dec 17, 2014

I run all of opentracker's front suspension. The upper and lower control arms, spring perches...

I have global west strut rods and grab a trak springs.

Running these brakes in the front:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-140-11071/overview/year/1969/make/ford/model/mustang

And regular drums in the back.

Manual brakes.

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dale1bre

Discussion Starter · #19 · Dec 17, 2014

JPIII said:
No "fitment issues" with the Wilwoods as long as you follow the directions. There was some thrashing around on the rears, however.

I went with S or T's Bilstein coilover front suspension...Street or Track Front Bilstein Coilover System.. no "fittment issues" issues there either.....not that anyone who has never BTDT would know the difference anyhow. The S or T set up is NOT CHEAP....just the best, IMO.......with all the adjustment that I can think of. I have this "thing" about using good stuff....something about doing a job once...must be a character flaw.

Oh, that is WAY out of my league of what i want to spend. I'm basically just looking to replace the odl stuff with items that aren't 50 years old.

1ofAMillion+

· #20 · Dec 17, 2014

You might be suprised that some of those 50 year old parts are still as good as new.
i have a few issues with the suspension "kits;" If youve got it torn apart and dont want to do stuff twice its nice to have all at once but it could be rebuilt from the top down in stages; springs and UCA in a step then LCA sway bar etc in others if you need to piece meal it for cost and drive in between steps (i purposely do this to appreciate each upgrade)
Speaking of upgrades those "kits" usually rule that out, the springs and sway bar are almost no additional cost to get "better than new/original." The same way that some replacements like UCA/LCA can have wild prices(&catchy names) compared to more generic brands yet be identicle in performance. (Think Moog or McQuay-Norris on the shelf at you local parts store) They are not rare and unique parts, simply service replacements.
As for brakes, they are a bling item these days as much as anything, like Gucci you pay for the name as much as the utility. If you want them to peek out from behind your wheels its one thing you might appreciate but it doesnt take a whole heck of a lot to stop our cars. The 11.3" disc is the same size as '67+ I think.

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