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Discussion Starter #1
My hood is not worthy. Steel hood cut out and a GT350 scoop glassed in. The paint shop did a so so job on the prep work and paint. I had to color sand down a run along the lip of the scoop inlet and I sanded thru a layer of paint which shows up. I can see a lot of prep marks under the paint too.

The new hood hinges from DTI are junk. They gall into themselves with the hood springs installed. The hood does not go down even with the fenders either...even with the hinges adjusted as low as they'll go unless I take the hood springs off.

Too many issues so the hood and hinges aren't worthy...later!

I bought a GT 500 style fiberglass hood from fiberglass specialties and I bought a new set of hinges from Scott Drake. Got a prop rod too, and no I will not be using hood springs. Figure this was the best way to solve all the hood related issues. I should have done this in the first place like I had planned.

The steel hood is in great shape...just paint it to match...anybody want a hood?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Mustang Depot of Las Vegas. They carry the hood and a universal prop rod. Know anything about it that I should know? Hood was $359 and I didn't get charged for shipping.
 

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No, nothing you should know... I'm just looking for a prop rod :: I got a Hood from Mustang Depot also, I'm pretty happy with it so far. I'm in the middle of block sanding it, and it's coming out nice!!. It is ALOT better then my other fiberglass cowl hood.
 

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If I can offer My .02
I also have a glass hood and I spent a LOT of time on the bottom filling the 2 piece's seams and fitting the top contour to the cowl. Not to mention the time to block the top side and make ready for final paint.
The one thing I didn't do that I regret was not widening the hood, to close the gap between the hood and the fenders. This would have required installing the fenders and the hood and test fitting all pieces to their final position. Knowing what I do now I would have spent the time to add a little to each side of the hood to make the gap narrower. I'm not talking much either, maybe an 1/16th"- 1/8th" each side. It doesn't look bad but it could look better. It's one of those things that mostly only I notice.
 

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I understand what your saying about widening the hood, the mustang depot hood I received is 3/8" wider then another popular glass hood that i have..So it does look alot better then soem..
 

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Tracy - A short length of chain hooked between the two "hooks" on the hood hinges will keep the hood up. I've seen this done on a couple of GT-350s, and it's a neat solution without a prop rod.
 

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I had the exact same hood many years ago. I hope you have better luck with it than I did. Not only was it too small, as a few others have already mentioned, but it was warped, wavey, and the mounting nuts for the hinges were very lightly glassed in and pulled out quite easily. All in all it turned out to be a piece of junk and I eventually threw it in the garbage. ::
 

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Whew, with all this talk of problems with those fiberglass hoods, I'm glad I had mine made from an old hood and the scoop than try my luck with the fiberglass... Cost me about $200 more... if you add the cost of shippin' the thing to Iowa!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Really?...so if I understand you correctly, I pull the two hooks together slightly with a chain (or cable) and this causes enough friction on the hinge points to keep the hood open? I like it.

This is what was happening to my DTI hinges. The hood spring did the same thing, but the hinge pins have too much height and one half of the hinge would [censored] driving the edge of the metal into the rest of the hinge galling it like crazy.
 

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It's simple, and it works. Visualize how the scissors hinges work, my friend. :: When fully compressed, the hooks holding the hinge springs are at their farthest distance apart and the springs are stretched. When you raise the hood the springs shorten and help raise the hood and eventually hold all of it's weight - and the hooks on the hinges are closest together when the hood is fully raised.

So, if you can open the hood without the help of any springs, you can also keep the hood open by securing the hinges' spring hooks closely together. IIRC the chains I've seen were under a foot long. They were attached using a caribiner type end hook at one end, and the unattached end link was large enough to hook over the opposite hinge hook......

Simple answer, but hard to explain. :eek: Hope it works for you. Dickson

PS - If the center trailing edge of the hood tends to "droop" below the level of the cowl, that's another problem I've seen with fiberglass hoods..that'll be next tip! ::
 

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A warning if you are going to remove the hood hinge springs!

The springs cause the hood to move forward and up when the hood latch is released. This allows the rear of the hood to clear the cowl. With no springs you MUST pull forward and up as you raise the hood or the rear of the hood will catch on the "point" in the center of the cowl and chip the paint.

Unfortunately I found this out the hard way on my GT350.

The advantage to not having any springs is that the hood hinges fold up much neater so that the back of the hood doesn't tend to stick up when the hood is closed.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Quite straight forward no that I understand which hooks you were referring to. Probably just need this on one side to do the trick...i'll try that before installing the prop rod. Thanks
 
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