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Discussion Starter #22
I bet you a dollar that the stand is put together wrong. It should be reversed so the smaller member is in the "front"
Looking at that pic, it looks that way. I'll have to go look at the actual stand -- seems to me they are about the same length, but it could just be an assembly error. Might even be able to correct that with the block on it... But, we did find that if I stand on the back of it, you can fold up the front and it won't tip over. Even with the heads on.
 

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Looking at that pic, it looks that way. I'll have to go look at the actual stand -- seems to me they are about the same length, but it could just be an assembly error. Might even be able to correct that with the block on it... But, we did find that if I stand on the back of it, you can fold up the front and it won't tip over. Even with the heads on.

That's an accident waiting to happen ^^^^. Do not fold it up with the engine on it...
 

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Discussion Starter #24
That's an accident waiting to happen ^^^^. Do not fold it up with the engine on it...
Already did it once, out of necessity. It's stable as long as you have a couple hundred pounds of additional mass on the back legs.

I did go out and take a second look. The rear crossmember is a couple of inches narrower than the front, so it may have been assembled bass-ackwards by the previous owner. They're close enough to the same length, though, that swapping them (even if possible) still wouldn't allow the engine stand to fit between the legs of the hoist. What we'll likely do when the time comes is to slide some wood blocks under the front leg for support, then un-bolt the front crossmember. It's less risky than having a fat guy on the back of the engine stand. :)
 

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The shorter crossmember goes in front because it then fits more easily into the "V" of your traditional cherry picker type engine hoist. It shouldn't affect stability at all. If it doesn't affect you transferring the engine back to your hoist I wouldn't bother with it for the time being.

Since you were wrestling the engine and torque converter around more than a little I would certainly replace the pump seal of the transmission. It's common practice in such situations.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I think even the shorter crossmember would still not allow the hoist to get the engine within 2 or 3 feet of the stand. Even the shorter crossmember is nearly as long as the hoist legs are wide.

We’ll probably pull and rebuild the transmission also. It’s certainly going to get removed and that seal replaced.
 

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Are the legs of the engine hoist adjustable at all? Some hoists allow the legs to be spread further apart on the rear cross member. Some legs are able to be made longer which makes the legs further apart at the front or open end. Will extending the boom help? Don't go so far as to overload the booms weight rating. Dave R.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
No... to all. 🙂 It’s really a simple problem with several possible solutions, none of which are needed until the overhaul is done. We got it on the stand OK, we’ll get it back on the hoist one way or another.

Most likely we’ll support the front member of the stand with wood blocks and remove the crossmember from the front. I don’t know that I’d want to leave it that way long term, but it will be stable and stationary for the few minutes it will take to roll the hoist in and hook it up... given that there are stands like the Harbor Freight model configured the same way, just a single wheel on the front member.
 

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My engine stand does not fit that great into the "V" of my hoist but it fits just enough to make the transfer without too much trouble and with only 1 person. You just have to push the motor out to reach a little bit. My front cross member is 27", rear is 32.5".
 

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I’ve run into this issue. I have 2 different stands, 3 wheelers and 4 wheelers. I’ve found it easier to set a motor on the bed of pick up,( tailgate removed) attach motor to engine stand head, and then slide head into engine stand. I can then stand in bed of truck and it compresses suspension and the engine stand is standing on its wheels. This is my ford ranger pick up. Round about way, but works for me. I did not do this with the 390 though.
 

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I bet you a dollar that the stand is put together wrong. It should be reversed so the smaller member is in the "front"
Agreed - swap the front and rear cross braces, the stand is put together wrong.


FWIW, you've never lived until you experience the terror of trying to move an engine on a three wheel stand across cracked concrete or a parking lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Agreed - swap the front and rear cross braces, the stand is put together wrong.
You are correct. It's not obvious, so I didn't check that after I bought it. The leg currently on the back is about 4" shorter. Still not enough to make a difference in this case, but I'll be sure to swap them after it's all over, before I sell it to the next guy. There's no way it would get far enough into the hoist footprint even with the legs swapped into their proper positions.
FWIW, you've never lived until you experience the terror of trying to move an engine on a three wheel stand across cracked concrete or a parking lot.
I can imagine. Fortunately, this stand will be 99% stationary, with a little rolling across a nice, level, smooth, crack-free garage floor. After that, the stand and the hoist will get sold to the next guy who needs them for a project.
 

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I have this same problem.
I have a nice cherry picker/hoist and engine stands and the legs are incompatible...
It’s infuriating and unsafe.
I get help and be VERY careful.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I use a 4 wheel engine cart for completed engines, and a 3 wheel engine stand for assembly. The engine cart will allow you to assemble the flywheel/clutch assembly and not have to sit the engine on the floor possibly damaging the oil pan.
 
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