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Discussion Starter #1
What can one expect to pay (roughly) to remove glass, front clip and trim. Prep for paint with blocking/priming for base coat/clear coat,
Assume with minor body work and rust, what would the levels look like:
Budget:
Nice driver:
Show:
 

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You neglect to mention a few things... paint type, shop type (and experience), and location. All of your above and including these can put you anywhere from $3,000 to $30,000 in a hurry. You'll get #'s mall over the board, so it's not really a fair question. Your best bet is to figure out 1st what you want- budget, nice, or show. Once that's determined, next choose your shop. Search for an experienced shop if going show, or an inexpensive shop if budget is key. Look for reviews on your choice- and see what their track record is- as well as their time lines. FWIW- I'm currently having a '67 F100 done- no rust, but deleting seams, full strip, align, prep, paint, etc- roughly $12K. My last '66 fb was done in pearl white with blue stripes, near Show Quality- was roughly $10K after I'd already done the metal work. A '64 Impala I'm having done currently by a 'budget guy' is probably going to be near $6K when done (rust repair and metal work already done). The old 'you get what you pay for' directly applies...
 

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If you're expecting to drop a complete car off and get a complete car back, figure on the high end of @gt350sr 's estimate. If you're willing to do some of the reassembly work yourself, the price drops significantly.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
You neglect to mention a few things... paint type, shop type (and experience), and location. All of your above and including these can put you anywhere from $3,000 to $30,000 in a hurry. You'll get #'s mall over the board, so it's not really a fair question. Your best bet is to figure out 1st what you want- budget, nice, or show. Once that's determined, next choose your shop. Search for an experienced shop if going show, or an inexpensive shop if budget is key. Look for reviews on your choice- and see what their track record is- as well as their time lines. FWIW- I'm currently having a '67 F100 done- no rust, but deleting seams, full strip, align, prep, paint, etc- roughly $12K. My last '66 fb was done in pearl white with blue stripes, near Show Quality- was roughly $10K after I'd already done the metal work. A '64 Impala I'm having done currently by a 'budget guy' is probably going to be near $6K when done (rust repair and metal work already done). The old 'you get what you pay for' directly applies...
I’d like nice and middle quality materials is ok. Is it fair to say 15k minimum for nice if 30k is show?
 

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With you doing none of the work yourself, I’d be guessing higher than that.

You’re talking about a Lot of labor.
 

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i agree with the others. just dropping off a car and telling the paint shop to disassemble, bodywork, prep and paint, even wth inexpensive materials at a good paint shop is going to be at least $10,000 for a solid color, and that assumes no rust repair, or any other panel replacement needs.remember at this point you are talking about nearly a full restoration, and the reality is that its the bodywork and paint that costs the most due to the huge amount of labor involved.

to give you an idea, here are just some of the things involved in a full paint job;

disassembly
media blasting
any body work that needs to be done
primer surfacer coat
hours upon hours of block sanding
another coat of primer, this time a sealer
more block sanding, not as many hours this time, but still
base coat
color sanding
clear coat
final sanding and polishing
reassembly
and any trim repair or replacement necessary.

most shops are going to have at least 500 man hours in a cheap paint job. gone are the days of teh earl sheib "slap and dash" paint job where they just clean the car off and paint it for $100. even one day will charge you about $600 fr a cheap paint job that requires no disassembly or bodywork, and using cheap paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I can take off trim, gut interior, bag everything coming off and reassemble those things.
I’d drop off that way and pick it up that way ready to put back on. I wouldn’t be a part of the body and paint.
I’m thinking blocked twice, 2-3 coats primer and 3-4 coats clear.
 

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I can take off trim, gut interior, bag everything coming off and reassemble those things.
I’d drop off that way and pick it up that way ready to put back on. I wouldn’t be a part of the body and paint.
I’m thinking blocked twice, 2-3 coats primer and 3-4 coats clear.
well you will save some money by doing the disassembly and reassembly yourself as far as the trim goes, and if you just require a daily driver paint job, you can get down into the $10,000-15,000 range.
 

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I can take off trim, gut interior, bag everything coming off and reassemble those things.
I’d drop off that way and pick it up that way ready to put back on. I wouldn’t be a part of the body and paint.
I’m thinking blocked twice, 2-3 coats primer and 3-4 coats clear.
Your numbers for the process are close but won’t get to choose the details of how it’s done for a job like this. The painter/shop will block and paint as much as required for the quality of the job. The sanding and panel work is going to depend on what the metal looks like. Everyone says “rust free no filler” but unless you’re the original owner or have stripped it you won’t know if any other body work has been done. Even if you are the original owner rust has a way of appearing on a 50 plus year old car. :unsure: From out of nowhere, like magic.:)

Where are you located? That can at least point you in the right direction. The chain places are franchises and some do pretty good custom work not as part of the chain. For example there is a Maaco guy here in town that uses his shop but does customs under another company. The kids do the collision and production work and he does the fancy stuff with another crew.
 

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It will be North of $10K for a skilled individual or reputable shop to do it (easily that much). I have recently made and added up my Paint Materials List for my next project. This is for the primers, fillers, clear, and base for a Mustang sized car:
Cost to Redo Body Materials List

1. Epoxy Primer (Matrix MP-900 Black) (2 gallons at $180ish each)

2. Body Filler (Evercoat Rage Ultra $59 per gallon)

3. Poly Primer (Feather Fill G2 1 gallon at $78)

4. Urethane Primer (Matrix MP3-H3 1 gallon at $190)

5. Epoxy Primer Sealer (Matrix MP-420 White) (1 gallons at $180ish)

6. Under Body Paint (PPG single stage $125 1 gallon)

7. Base Coat (2 gallons Shopline JB $250ish each)

8. Clear Coat (Matrix MS-42 2 gallons at $225 each)


Total Guestimate = $1942

Add in all the labor and usables like sand paper, welding supplies, electricity, etc....
 

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A curveball for you. Do it yourself. I had never painted a car before I did my 69 Fastback. My only experience of spraying paint was using aerosol cans.

I borrowed a compressor and spray gun from a friend and I made a temporary paint booth on my driveway. I then practised on some old car panels.

My car was already completely dismantled for a restoration I was doing. So I stripped the paint off back to bare metal as it had a previously rushed respray done before I owned it.

All the time-consuming work is not actually spraying the car. It is the preparation work done before that. If the preparation work is not good, then the pain job will not be good.

The materials needed are not cheap, but I did it for a small fraction of the price of a respray done by someone else. And I learnt a new skill, which is a plus in my book. It might not win any car show prizes, but I am not into that sort of thing. I just wanted a very nice looking car that I would not be ashamed to turn up in, and the old paint job it had was exactly that.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yeah my assume minor bodywork and minor rust wasn’t necessarily the car in question. I know there will be hidden surprises. The rear quarters are original but I really have no idea what’s underneath, hidden away.
I live in middle (Central Valley) California. That 10k-15k number earlier already put my mind at expecting 15k.
 

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No matter where you take it, spend time with the painter discussing the specifics of the quality level you are seeking. Ideally, having a specific car that painter has done previously as the specific "bogey" will go a long way toward avoiding misunderstandings on the quality level expected. In my experience a nice quality Maaco job will run $3K and up. A back woods painter with skills and pride in his work will likely run 2 to 3 times that amount. Show winning paint in an urban area will likely be solidly into 5 figures. Frequent visits to the shop to check on progress send a strong message that you care about your car and the effort needed to achieve the agreed goal. Good luck and post some pics of the finished paint.

The Central Valley is a large space (Bakersfield to Red Bluff). Care to narrow the map?
 

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5 yrs ago cost me $10K for complete take down strip and repaint to back to original color
plus $2500K for trim . took 6 months to the day





 

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In my opinion it 1. Depends where in the country you are 2. The shop meaning some shops aren’t very well known and do great work and it won’t be cheap but also won’t be as expensive as a well known shop. I’d say $10,000 to $15,000 is about right for a nice nice car maybe $3,000-$7,000 for driver quality and then the $500 Macao job lol
 

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I just got my 1967 mustang back from paint and body. I spent a total of $23k To include $2500 for paint strip ( alum oxide abrasive blast) and preliminary primer. Another $2500 in some small weld and patch repair. $18k in a few pinhole weld repairs, blocking, sanding, primer, paint and clear coat. It looks very nice and it’s a weekend driver not a show car. I did the disassembly and I will reassemble. I should also mention that included spraying Lizard Skin, both products I provided the lizard skin.
759903
 
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