Vintage Mustang Forums banner

Good 289 heads at a reasonable price?

1304 Views 5 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Torquewrench

My '66 289 is leaking around the head gasket, so I guess it's time to take care of that. Since I'm pulling the heads anyway, does anyone have a recommendation for some heads that would improve my performance without getting up in the 800-1000 dollar price range? I know I'm probably dreaming.

I'm not looking for anything to go racing with. My car is a daily driver and if I can get some bolt-on power at a fair price, I'll take it.

The engine has a Edelbrock 600 CFM 4V and Edelbrock Performer intake manifold. It also has dual exhaust.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
John Thomas

65 coupe pictures:

66 Convertable pictures:
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
The biggestroblem with using different heads, is that, you'll loose compression. You're 289 heads have about 53-55 cc chambers. A lot of 302 and 351 heads are in the 60+ cc range and will loose about 1/2 or more point of compression. I'm not saying this is the best thing to do, but I think if it was my car, I'd put the larger 351 valves in the 289 heads, using the Manely undercut street valves and a little pocket porting and leave it at that. This shouldn't really cost too much more than a good rebuild.

You can do anything you want to......ONCE!
aka "my 66 coupe"
I've seen these guys featured in a few magazine articles, They sould like a pretty good deal. They take your original 289 heads, CNC port them out, install 1.94/1.60 SS valves, good springs, keepers, etc. and do some hand clean up all for $675. I haven't seen any flow numbers though. At least you keep your high-compression.

check them out on the web at

65 Fastback 289 4spd in storage :-(
91 CRX Si... A.K.A. my go-kart with AC!
Take a look at Power Heads. I'm sending my own 289 heads
out there this week to be reworked. They have CNC programs to port and polish early Ford heads.
They also install screw-in studs, pushrod guides, and larger valves.

The price is about $800 ($700 + shipping) . I opted out of the aluminum aftermarket heads once I
did the math on the compression ratios. Reworking my factory heads gives me a better breathing
head without giving up compression. BTW, you can buy heads already done by them and send
them yours as cores if you don't care about keeping your original heads on the motor.

Truth in Advertising: I haven't had them do the work on my heads yet, so I'm not speaking from
direct experience. But I'm convinced they're the way to go for me and I'm planning to send my
heads out to them this week.

'67 C-code 'vert (Dees67)
'69 GT FB (project car)
Check out my band: Brickyard Blues<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by Dees67 on 03/14/01 08:24 AM (server time).</FONT></P>
See less See more
Maybe the first thing to do is get a new cam. Camachinist pointed me to a 204/214 cam that's not supposed to lug at idle, but will give me more "get up and go". I haven't installed the engine yet, so I don't know whether I like it or not. But it sounds like you've got the carb and exhaust to support a bigger than stock cam.

Coppertone's current condition:
If you want to hear or drive the convertible let me know. The idle is as smooth as stock. In fact for my coupe I'm thinking of stepping up to a 214/224 cam to see what that's like. As for the performance upgrade I really can't say. I also upgraded to a 4100 4 barrel and did a conservative port and polish on the heads at the same time. Add the fact that I hadn't driven the engine for 3 years before that and I don't know what kind of increases I've gotten. And having a 2.80 rear gear doesn't exactly help either. When the weather cooperates I'll see about maybe making a trip down and let you see what you think.
66 C-code convertible
66 C-code coupe
65 GTO hardtop
76 Nova hatchback
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.