The hourly rate seems fair, but you didn't specify what exactly they're doing as far as paint/sanding/color matching is concerned.
I dont' think it will take 40 hours to just cut the old panels off and weld the new skins in place, however, if they also included grinding the weld marks down, doing whatever bondo work is needed, primering, painting, sanding, and all that other good stuff needed to make it seem like nothing was ever changed, then yeah, I could see 40 hours.
'65 Coupe ***Total Project***
Current Stats: Dead 200 six, C4, surface rust, hole in the floorpan
Plans: Tremec TKO, 351C, MII front suspension, no shock towers
The metal behind the quarters is solid. . . im not getting them primered or painted, all im doing is just getting them to remove the old quarters and welding in the new ones (the entire q.p. assembly, not skins). This of course is without the cost of parts too so i can tack on an additional 3-400 dollars
Over the years I've collected all kinds of spare gaskets, paper, rubber, carb, intake, exhaust, rebuild kit spares, etc. How do you preserve these gaskets, so they can be reused later, a year or two or five later.
I've been reading a lot more than posting for the last few years, but that might change a bit considering my current undertaking. I'm roadtripping across the USA in my '69 Cougar. For those who don't know, the Cougar is basically a Mustang with different sheetmetal and a 3" longer...
I don’t know if I should remove the black leather and extra trim I’m not sure if this was an extra feature and should I fix the leather if it’s (OEM). Or was it added after it was sold and should I remove it if it’s (aftermarket).
I noticed when questions about repo fenders or hoods one of the replies I tend to see is try to stick to the original one and
the talk goes to how bad the fit is and such. So my question is it this a BIG problem with aftermarket parts like this?
Or is it we tend to speak out when we have a...