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Discussion Starter #1
Picked up a '91 5.0L(F1SE block) out of a mustang for $500. Complete top to bottom with wiring and an a9L ECM and MAF. No idea on the mileage and I know its sat for at least a year or so. Three intake bolts were broken off in the head which I didn't notice til I yanked a head off. The left bank cylinder walls looks decent, I'll have to pull the right side next. It was in a 5spd car.. so I'm guessing I need to check crank endplay? I tried to do a leak down but it was pretty difficult solo on an engine stand. Rings seemed to hold pressure though.. I'm unsure about what to do with the heads. At the very least it'll need guides/seals and maybe a valve grind. Should I just get some other cast off E7's to avoid drilling/cursing the blithering imbecile that left me with broken bolts? I guess I could look for some Gt40's or P's..

This is an inexpensive build to put into project cheapskate, my rusty '65 thats all cut apart right now. As it's complete, I think I'll make it work with the EFI! I have all the parts! Plus, a vortech or paxton will bolt on easily!

I know I need to do the following
  • early motor mounts (have some pinned new stockers from my other '65)
  • Plug dipstick hole and drill timing cover for one
  • Water pump replaced (reverse rotation)
  • EGR delete (resistor and spacer)
  • Headers to fit the '65
  • strip down and re route the wiring for the EFI
  • Radiator for 5.0L inlet and outlet
  • figure out pulleys for A/C, PS and smog delete, maybe upgrade to 3G alt.
  • Front sump oil pan and pickup (I'll probably replace the oil pump and drive while I'm at it)
  • Valve covers (it has cheap bashed up chrome ones on it just to keep dirt out right now)

Pointers? What should I be looking at? what should I be replacing? What are the common fixes and changes? I haven't touched an SBF in years.. and my 331 was put together ($$$$) by a local race shop.

Should it get cam bearings? an E or B cam? dingle ball hone and new rings/bearings and hope for the best?

I'm all ears!
 

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Dimples
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If the cylinder walls look good, I wouldn't bother honing it. SBFs, tend to go through bearings before the cyl walls go. When you pull the oil pan, pop the #1 main bearing cap off and look at it. That one takes the most abuse. If it's good, slap it back on there, torque it and go. If it's badly worn, consider new main and rod bearings. I would expect your cam bearings would be ok, but that may qualify as a "while you're in there" kind of job.
 

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Row, are you planning on running the engine in your 65 with EFI and all that stuff ? Or are you willing to put a carb and aluminum intake on it ? Are you looking for power, or is this a quick & dirty job ? What happened to the original 1965 engine ? LSG
 

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I agree with @BkakeTX. The rings have formed to the contour of the cylinder. Think of it being lapped to the wall. As you know I'm a fan of the GT40P head. They're not the best head in the world but they are the lastest evolution of the SBF head with cylinder head technology of the 90's and not the 60's. They're better then most SBF Windsor factory heads. They are great for someone not wanting to spend a lot of money but something better then the E7 head. I wouldn't advise spending much more money then maybe a valve job on them.

You also have to think about headers. Not every one will work. If you already have headers it doesn't make sense to buy a new set to accommodate a cheap set of heads. But if you need headers, MAC will work even though not designed to. What to look for in headers. If you can get a deep socket on the rear bolt of each header tube on the driver's side, you should be good to go.

The stock Mustang 5.0 cam seems to work quite well with the GT40P head. It provides a broad flat torque curve and pulls well into the 5500 RPM range. I don't know how much power it make but talking to someone who said they've Dyno tested this combination a few times said they make around 280 FWHP. I've read a couple time the E cam with the E7 heads is a bit of a wash giving up low end for about 8 go on the top end. With a better head such as the GT40P or GT40P head my guess it would work much better.

They don't need a lot of timing either, no more then 30° mechanical works well. They also seem to be detonation resistant too.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Row, are you planning on running the engine in your 65 with EFI and all that stuff ? Or are you willing to put a carb and aluminum intake on it ? Are you looking for power, or is this a quick & dirty job ? What happened to the original 1965 engine ? LSG
Gonna run all the EFI stuff as I have it! I mean.. I could slap my $$Shelby$$ intake on it and find a carb.. but I'd rather the EFI. I'm looking for something to just be fun to blast around with. Doesn't need to make wild HP. The 331 in my other car is good for that. Although I do keep seeing fox body superchargers come up locally used for not a ton of money...

It was originally a 6 cyl car and that drivetrain was long gone when I got this shell.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I agree with @BkakeTX. The rings have formed to the contour of the cylinder. Think of it being lapped to the wall. As you know I'm a fan of the GT40P head. They're not the best head in the world but they are the lastest evolution of the SBF head with cylinder head technology of the 90's and not the 60's. They're better then most SBF Windsor factory heads. They are great for someone not wanting to spend a lot of money but something better then the E7 head. I wouldn't advise spending much more money then maybe a valve job on them.

You also have to think about headers. Not every one will work. If you already have headers it doesn't make sense to buy a new set to accommodate a cheap set of heads. But if you need headers, MAC will work even though not designed to. What to look for in headers. If you can get a deep socket on the rear bolt of each header tube on the driver's side, you should be good to go.

The stock Mustang 5.0 cam seems to work quite well with the GT40P head. It provides a broad flat torque curve and pulls well into the 5500 RPM range. I don't know how much power it make but talking to someone who said they've Dyno tested this combination a few times said they make around 280 FWHP. I've read a couple time the E cam with the E7 heads is a bit of a wash giving up low end for about 8 go on the top end. With a better head such as the GT40P or GT40P head my guess it would work much better.

They don't need a lot of timing either, no more then 30° mechanical works well. They also seem to be detonation resistant too.
So Assuming the #1 bearing looks ok, I'll basically leave the bottom end alone.

I'll keep my eyes peeled for some Gt40P or GT40 heads. I'd reuse the E7's I have with it, but I'd rather not waste my time taking three snapped off bolts out and then having a valve job done.

Headers will be the way to go. I'll have to see what I do about the heads now. Good to know on the E cam.
 

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So Assuming the #1 bearing looks ok, I'll basically leave the bottom end alone.

I'll keep my eyes peeled for some Gt40P or GT40 heads. I'd reuse the E7's I have with it, but I'd rather not waste my time taking three snapped off bolts out and then having a valve job done.

Headers will be the way to go. I'll have to see what I do about the heads now. Good to know on the E cam.
I had a broken intake bolt in each head too. Both broke very close. I had to weld bolts on.
744467
 

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OP mentioned A/C, PS and smog delete. You can use a short belt but it won't contact much of the WP pulley in this configuration. I think I read somewhere that a 1/3 of the pulley should be in contact with the bellt. My car is set up like this now but I will be addressing this before I put it on the road.
 

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65 Fastback 289 4 spd, 65 convertible 5.0L 5 spd. 3.73 8.8
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Picked up a '91 5.0L(F1SE block) out of a mustang for $500. Complete top to bottom with wiring and an a9L ECM and MAF. No idea on the mileage and I know its sat for at least a year or so. Three intake bolts were broken off in the head which I didn't notice til I yanked a head off. The left bank cylinder walls looks decent, I'll have to pull the right side next. It was in a 5spd car.. so I'm guessing I need to check crank endplay? I tried to do a leak down but it was pretty difficult solo on an engine stand. Rings seemed to hold pressure though.. I'm unsure about what to do with the heads. At the very least it'll need guides/seals and maybe a valve grind. Should I just get some other cast off E7's to avoid drilling/cursing the blithering imbecile that left me with broken bolts? I guess I could look for some Gt40's or P's..

This is an inexpensive build to put into project cheapskate, my rusty '65 thats all cut apart right now. As it's complete, I think I'll make it work with the EFI! I have all the parts! Plus, a vortech or paxton will bolt on easily!

I know I need to do the following
  • early motor mounts (have some pinned new stockers from my other '65)
  • Plug dipstick hole and drill timing cover for one
  • Water pump replaced (reverse rotation)
  • EGR delete (resistor and spacer)
  • Headers to fit the '65
  • strip down and re route the wiring for the EFI
  • Radiator for 5.0L inlet and outlet
  • figure out pulleys for A/C, PS and smog delete, maybe upgrade to 3G alt.
  • Front sump oil pan and pickup (I'll probably replace the oil pump and drive while I'm at it)
  • Valve covers (it has cheap bashed up chrome ones on it just to keep dirt out right now)
Pointers? What should I be looking at? what should I be replacing? What are the common fixes and changes? I haven't touched an SBF in years.. and my 331 was put together ($$$$) by a local race shop.

Should it get cam bearings? an E or B cam? dingle ball hone and new rings/bearings and hope for the best?

I'm all ears!
Follow what others have said about leaving cylinders, ck. crank bearing. I did a 92 5.0L install last winter. I deleted the smog pump, running the a.c. compressor. Installed ft. sump pan, I welded baffles in pan and oil screen baffle, The headers will not work from a Fox body, ordered Headman for 65. installed the computer above the RF tire, close to top of fender, stripped the wires only out of loom, wiring looks like it did in 92 as far as placement. mounted solenoid on LF shock tower, installed battery in RR of trunk, used battery box out of Fox and fit over trunk well. I didn't cut 1 original wire from 65, found ignition wire (bullet) above gas pedal. If you want pics and more info, send me a email. I would also look into aluminum heads from speedway, bought some for $400 last winter assembled.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If doing A/C P/S and smog delete, you'll need an A/C delete pulley
I saw that! I also did some googling and saw a couple of people running a bracket from March with the stock pulleys that seemed to work for just WP and ALT.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I would also look into aluminum heads from speedway, bought some for $400 last winter assembled.
I just had a look.. thats pretty cheap for assembled aluminum heads! Holy! All said and done, I'd be dollars ahead versus finding or fixing my cast ones...
 

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I just had a look.. thats pretty cheap for assembled aluminum heads! Holy! All said and done, I'd be dollars ahead versus finding or fixing my cast ones...
I got a real good deal on a set of used Edelbrock Performer 5.0 heads and a used B303 on the Corral when I did my GT40P swap Windsor Engine Parts
I would have just used the P heads ,but I had just finished my exhaust install with stainless TriY's and didn't want to start over
 

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What radiator do you have or plan to run?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
What radiator do you have or plan to run?
I have nothing! The car is gonna need a rad support, so I figured I'd get the MTF smooth one and maybe try and run the +67 big block unit.. or something similarly larger with the appropriate outlets for the 5.0L
 

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I’m running a 2 row 1” aluminum radiator by Northern, purchased from Summit Racing about 10 years ago.

It was available in 289 and 5.0 configurations.

I have the 289 version when I still had 289.
I’m still using it with my stock 5.0 with the 92 accessory drive and with factory efi.
No overheating issues.
 
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