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Discussion Starter #1
Somewhere along the way I thought I read that the 94-95 5.0 was the way to go. I guess I need new glasses or an old fashion whupping.

I was all excited about putting this engine in my car - at least until I came back to the forum and re-read that in 94-95 ford changed the world - again. It was very depressing to learn that I just spent 3k on a setup that I would have to spend another 2k on to get it to work...

I am bummed out.... no way can I sneak any more $ pass the wife...
 

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Sounds like something I'd do. :: Is this an entire motor with the fuel injection on it or are we talking about a crate motor?
 
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Discussion Starter #3
full long block... injectors, intake, everything...

anybody need a good 5.0 ?
 

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RWA, Can you be more specific on what you wanted to do with the drive train from the 94 mustang? What did you read that changed your plans?

Would you mind filling out your profile? It can be helpful also. John
 
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John:

I have a meeting to attend and I will provide a proper answer + profile when I get back - about an hour.

Thanks,

RWA
 

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id buy it off you if the price was 1000 buck... does all the FI stuff switch blocks or only good for the 94-95 block?
 

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tsk tsk tsk...thats why ya gotta read and ask a butt load of questions like i do and u end up bugging everyone on the forum! lol j\k about that last part ::

this is from Ron Morris JR's site....
94-95 MUSTANG 5.0 ENGINES
This is a good engine, computer and wiring system for an EFI conversion. It uses a 2 speed electric cooling fan, an electronically controlled automatic transmission (AODE) and has data link capabilities.
If you are installing this engine into an early Mustang, the timing cover does not have a place to drill for relocating the oil dipstick tube. The timing cover that comes on the 94-95 Mustangs is shorter than 93 an earlier timing covers and has it own water pump and accessory brackets. If you decide to change the timing cover you will also have to get different accessories and brackets. If you plan to run air conditioning, you will have clearance problems using the stock 94-95 brackets and a/c compressor. The compressor will interfere with the shock tower.
This engine uses an external EGR tube and since the factory headers will not work in early Mustangs or Broncos, it will require some fabrication to tie this tube into your headers or exhaust system. If you do not want to run the EGR system it can be removed with the RMP EGR Eliminator kit.
This engine also has a different distributor than the 86-93 engines, it uses what ford calls a closed bowl distributor and a remotely mounted TFI ignition module.
The main reason for the horsepower decrease in the 94-95 engines (215 HP) compared to the 86-93 engines (225 HP) is that Ford had to go to the 89-93 T-bird intake manifold to clear the reduced hood clearance on the new body style Mustang. This new lower intake manifold has smaller runners and a smaller plenum area causing the reduction in power.

Ron Morris Performance
 

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Assuming that everything is in good shape, that motor is a respectable candidate for an early mustang.....

The main issues will be oil pan, timing cover (I had an 82 truck motor and drilled the hole in the cover for the dipstick), and what engine controls you use.

That motor should bolt right up to a small block tranny...or you could install a late model overdrive tranny.


It all just requires a longer learning curve.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for all the replies!

I have a worn out 289 in my 65 conv, automatic(original), and I purchased the 94 5.0, efi as an upgrade. The engine is new.

Everything I have read indicates that I will have to spend another fortune to complete the upgrade. I have spent hours looking for an aftermarket harness - no luck. Does that mean I will have to find a donor vehicle? If that is true, what all will I have to have from the donor?

Has anyone done the 94 swap? is there a doc available? The conversion inventory on the Sacramento Mustang site adds up to several thousand dollars in addition to the motor cost.
 

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You havent looked hard enough....Ford racing and (I believe) painless wiring both make harnesses for installing EFI into old cars.


Do web searches for EEC (the common name for Ford's system) installations on the web. It's out there.
 
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Yes, it will help to know what to search for....

Thanks!
 

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IIRC, Mustangs Plus also sells an awful lot of stuff as far as custom harnesses and related parts for FI swaps too.

Sometime I wonder if the cure is worse then the diesease. To convert to FI is going to cost a fair amount. The equivilant spent on a good carb and intake would leave money for other perfomance improvements.

I could see leaving the FI if a supercharger was planned but...

Don't get me wrong, I love FI but sometimes you have to sit back and re-think IMO.
 

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Yep - sounds like you "screwed the pooch" on this one! Sharky seems to miss the point that 94-95 computer, dress, accesories, wiring, manifold, egr, and fuel lines are ALL different. You really need to start with 87-93 stuff (89-93 preferred). NO ONE makes a 94-95 swap wiring harness - not painless, Ford, or anyone that I'm aware of...

Windsor Fox has a good article about the 94-95 5.0...
http://www.windsor-fox.com/faq.htm

Basically, it says:
Q Can I use a 94 or 95 Mustang engine, or Explorer "crate engine" as a starting point.

A Yes, however, no one currently offers a modified computer harness to simplify the wiring installation. The engine harness is not compatible with the earlier computer harness, also the processor (computer) has a different pin layout. Nearly all of the connectors are of a different "design family" and will not mate the earlier more common connector types. To complicate things even further, the EGR is externally fed, and this will undoubtedly create a problem configuring the exhaust system. You must have the EGR system in place and operating to prevent detonation. The 86 to 93 Mustang intakes have the EGR feed internally routed through the lower intake manifold, so there is no need for external plumbing. Probably more importantly, the 94, 95 and crate engines have a different timing case cover, water pump and must use an electric cooling fan. The fact that these were in production for only two years in the Mustang also makes it much tougher to find salvaged parts, compared to the 8 year span of Mustangs that all used the "previous series" of front dress/brackets and accessories. Without question, for all swap applications, the 86 to 93 intake and engine accessory pieces are the ones to get for your swap. What all this means is if you get a good deal on a 94, 95 salvaged engine, or if you choose to start with a crate engine; just be prepared to dispose of some of the pieces that you will not use in addition to the labor to change these parts.


In other words, if you pick up a 94-95 DIRT CHEAP, you can make it work by swapping to earlier stuff... ::

At this point, you're probably best to carb the 5.0, and dump the EFI stuff on someone else. ::
 

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Mustangs plus also had a big tutorial on how to wire up a late model FI system into an early mustang... there were plenty of pictures too
 
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Discussion Starter #17
at least the debate is about equal. one post gives me hope and the next one squashes it....

thanks!

or is that one squashes it and the next gives me hope.... ::
 
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Discussion Starter #18
yeah gt350clone... you confirm everything I have read.....
 

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SORRY! :(

I HAD looked at the 94-95 setup as possibly being a better fit, but everyone told me to stay away from it... It can work, but you need a complete 94-95 donor car to get everything off of, then plan on "exploring new frontiers" to make it all work in an early car... The 89-93 swap is pretty easy in comparison.
 

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Ive seen a ton of 87-93 complete manifold set-ups for fairly cheap (old EFI components) . You could always get the upper/lower off a 87/93 and swap it and re-sell your stuff . I imagine the injectors that are in your could be used in the 87/93 intake so you can salvage those (someone correct me if Im wrong but I think they are for the most part Bosch injectors ,perhaps different pound-per-hour) .
If you were desperate you could weld a dipstick tube to the oil pan and then calibrate the stick on initial fill of the pan . I modified my a pan used on Fox body cars with a groove cut into the block for mounting the dipstick so I could use it on my 289 block . I just drilled a hole in the pan and put a steel tube into the hole with some S bends and welded it up . If your worried about doing that then you could swap the drive out for a older model 5.0 , including the timing chain cover . Id go have the pan modified by a pro before I spent the extra $$ swapping the entire front drive out .
 
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