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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I'm doing some work in the trunk, and I am using Krylon Rust Tough primer and paint. I was doing my best to do many coats and make it all smooth. Well, just to ruin a weeks worth of afternoons, I accidentally used a different kind of Krylon. The end result is that it instantly melts all the layers underneath and turns it into a raisin finish. It looks like lava rock.

The under coats are Krylon Rust Tough Enamel. The top coat that caused the problem is Krylon Interior and Exterior. Neither of them say anything about incompatibility.

Some areas that only received a light dusting seem to have survived, but I need to fix the surrounding areas. Am I forced to take off all the paint I've put down and start from scratch?

This is a major PITA.
 

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Yes. It is contaminated. If you are ever able to get it sanded down smooth, as soon as you spray over it again it will do the samr thing again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Darnit. What a load of crap.

Can you put one on top of the other, but not the other way around?

Furthermore, is one of these paints better than the other?
 

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I've only used one good spray bomb primer and that is the Dupli-color etch primer. So far it seems compatable with almost everything and really bites to the surface. The Krylons, etc just wipe away with anything but water.
 

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The only way that should have happened is if your first coats were not cured enough at each layer. Krylon is not a "hot" enamel or a lacquer so it should lay down smoothly on almost anything. Is the "Rust Tough" you used an acrylic water base by any chance? What was the temp of your room, the metal, the paint?
 

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I'm also wondering what happened! Krylon has been my favorite rattle can spray for
many years. Always seems virtually fool proof!
 

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I'm guessing that top coat must have been lacquer. I've used the Krylon Rust tough (you actually don't need a primer if the can's directions are correct) before with excellent results. I really like the nozzle and it dries super fast and doesn't run.

Why did you switch paints for the top coat??
 

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The last spray can I used said you could either spray the top coat 1 hour after the last primer coat, or you had to wait 5 days to prevent the topcoat from lifting the primer. In the cold, that could take even longer than 5 days I suppose.

Phil
 

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IIRC you can spray enamel over lacquer but not the other way around.

If it were me I would use Rustoleum products instead. They leave a tougher finish and AFAIK they are all enamel so no "lifting" like you encountered.
 

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I too have had better luck with Rustoleum products. Krylon has consistently lifted on me as well when conditions weren't perfect. Krylon just seems to be a bit pickier on the base preparation. The Rust Tough Primer is an enamel. I'm pretty sure the Indoor/Outdoor is an epoxy enamel.
 

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IIRC, Krylon 1613 says it can be recoated anytime. I've used the 1613 on top of primer that caused it to lift as described. Went back and checked the primer, and it said topcoat within 1 hour or after 7 days. I know you are not using 1613, but I would check both cans to see what the topcoat directions were.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Actually, the top coat WAS 1613. I remember looking at that number last night.


The reason I grabbed a different can is because at Kragen I thought I grabbed the same thing - it was the same lid down to every noticeable detail. I wasn't worrying about any kind of problem so I didn't go writing down what it was that I bought the first time around.

I'll try the rustoleum - if I can find it without too much work. Would home depot have it?
 

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Wal-mart even has it. Caution though, the black has a wee bit different sheen than the 1613. The 1613 is more correct (based on my experience) sheen for the engine bay but my experience is that Rustoleum is easier to adhere and somewhat more durable considering it is spray paint.
 

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I've always liked the finish I get from Krylon. I think the issue in this case is the combination of temperature and weather conditions made the Rust Tough cure slower than normal so the 1613 solvents caused it lift. Most enamels are pretty slow to fully cure, which is why you need to wait 5 days to recoat, or longer in some cases as demonstrated here.
 

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Over the years, I've used both the Krylon and the Rustoleum in spray form. I've always had problems with the Krylon and never with the Rustoleum. I think a previous owner (two owners ago) painted the whole car with Rustoleum, because I was fixing some places where pine sap had eaten clear through to the metal and tried their Regal Red. It matched perfectly. All of the places I've used with the Rustoleum are still good. The car sat outside for the first four or so years I owned it (no garage). This was after I had done the repainting. Even now, after being hit by Katrina and sitting under brackish water for a couple of days, the Rustoleum painted areas still look pretty good (no bubbles or anything).

Just my experience.
MustangChuck
 
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