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Here's an easy one for you guys. I am looking at a 66 GT350H and the data plate on the door is missing. However, the Shelby ID tag is still attached to the fender apron. Without actually being able to see the VIN# under the tag, how do I know if the car is a real Shelby or if it is a regular mustang with a tag and title from a different Shelby that may have been scrapped? Never mind all of the Shelby parts, I want to be able to prove beyond a reasonable doubt that the NUMBERS are correct first. I am aware that the VIN is also stamped on the right fender apron but it's not like I am going to take the fender off to see it. Should the title show the Ford VIN number or the Shelby ID number? Is there any difference between a Shelby title and that of a regular Mustang?

One more question...was power steering an option on a 66 GT350H?
 

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If it's real, then the owner should have no problem with you removing one rivet from the Shelby plate so that you can rotate it and see what the Ford VIN underneath is.....

Definitely call the SAAC to verify before writing a check ! Good luck and let us know how it goes. Dickson
 

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The VIN on the title SHOULD NOT reflect the Ford VIN of the chassis. A few, an extremely few, 65-66 Shelbys made it through the Shelby American shops with their Ford Warranty plates still on them. As noted by another response, you can clean the area on the bottom of the onner fender panel under the plate and obtain a mirror image of the Ford VIN which SAAC's Howard Pardee will be able to verify whether or not the Ford VIN would be a valid one. If it is wrong, they will not tell you what the right one would be, as this would be make forging a chassis possible. Besides the plate riveted over the Ford VIN, the Shelby VIN will be hand stamped atop the inner fender apron to the outside of the RHS shock tower. Loss of all of the stampings on the chassis, for what ever reason, would make the car questionable at best; a re-body, or forgery at worse case.

I looked at a fairly early '66 GT-350 years ago with the correct engine, transmission, VIN tag and hood, but it had an 8 inch and drum brakes. The owner didn't want me to remove a rivet to inspect below the Shelby American VIN plate citing he didn't want to loose the original rivets, if they were indeed original. You may find this with some owners. He did allow me to remove the bolts from the top of the fender to obtain a rubbing of the Ford VIN which lies slightly ahead of the hood hinge on top of the rear inner fneder panel, generally, on both sides of the car under the attaching flange of the fender.

I had not incountered getting the VIN from under neath at that time, but it is by far the most non-invasive. To do it, you may have to remove some undercoating and years od road dirt, but if the owner refuses to allow you to remove the wheel to check the VIN in this manner, I'd have to do some serious soul searching before buying the car.

The early cars are just too easy to replicate with 98% of the unique parts available over the counter or in replroduction form. One of the things that would be a give away is obviously spotted on the Shelby VIN plate; reproduction plates have the words on the right hand side if the VIN stamping oddly spaced. The pitch of the font used in making the reproductions leaves a gross amount of excess blank space.

I've also heard there was a faux paux in how the San Jose cars were assembled in the area between the passenger compartment and the trunk that while not a GT-350 give-away, would tend to signal a chassis from another plant.
 

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If you are serious about the car, you should ask to remove one of the rivets to verify the Ford serial number. Email Howard Pardee at SAAC and ask that the number be verified with the Shelby number. Also, a 'bottom's up' check should be made. If you furnish the Shelby number, I'll be happy to provide you all the info in the Shelby Registry. Included will be the list of options/colors the car was initially shipped with, the selling dealer, previous owners, etc. Armed with authentication from SAAC, AND the documented history of the car (that hopefully matches the existing owner's story) will allow you to make the decision to buy.


good luck
 
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Discussion Starter #6
SAAC can verify the car for you
There are no door data plates on 65/66 Shelby's
I would not allow anyone to remove my GT350's tag nor would I allow them to know the Ford vin.
My car is verified by SAAC and in the registry,they have the Ford vin on file.If you want the Ford vin, buy the car
These cars are too easy to clone and I will not take the chance of giving that info to anyone not even a "prospective" buyer.
If that is too difficult for some to understand, Sorry
 
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Discussion Starter #7
I have a a 65 GT350 totaly orig never been messd with,it has no door tag ,every 65/66 gt 350 ive had
had the shelby tag # stamped on the pass side inner fender apron [shock tower aera] and also all the ones i had had the shelby # on the title not the ford vin[example: your car would be 6S240 or something like that,]
as everybody else said check w/the shelby club that the only real way to tell for sure,they will even tell you the last reg owner and condtion or if its a rebody
Dave
 

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As everyone else has mentioned, the Ford VIN is under the Shelby plate and you need to see it and then contact Howard Pardee at SAAC (www.saac.com) as he can then verify the two for you. Shelby's don't have their door tags as all the data for the car can be tracked via the Shelby VIN.

No 66 GT350's came with power steering as far as I know.

-bob
 
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Discussion Starter #9
whats all this Howard Pardee junk? No one really named that.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
whats all this Howard Pardee junk? No one really named that.
 
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