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I am curious; has anyone had any issue running Halogen Sealed Beam replacement headlights on a 65-66? I have heard over the years that they draw too many amps and they can burn headlight switches?

In addition, does anyone make a 6024 LED replacement?
 

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I have been running the same pair of Sylvania halogen lamps in my car since 1992 when I took out the original FoMoCo ones with no problems, though some do report problems (maybe a combination of aging wiring, old regulators and bad grounds). ...and I want to add LED to my car since I'm driving it more again and these days are getting shorter. I swapped LEDs onto my truck and I love them.

The least expensive one I have seen that include an OE-looking glass headlamp and have the 6000Kelvin color (not blue but just right) are here...

But on flea-bay or scam-azon, you might find some you like better. There are lots out there.
 

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I put 6024 halogens in my car along with a relay kit from NPD. A lot of folks went with cheaper kits from Amazon but I preferred to put my faith in NPD.
 

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I put 6024 halogens in my car along with a relay kit from NPD. A lot of folks went with cheaper kits from Amazon but I preferred to put my faith in NPD.
I put halogens on mine many years ago, and then followed up with a home-built relay kit with a fused wire coming off the solenoid. Hid the two relays under the washer bag on the driver side fender apron.
 

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Before upgrading lamps I would add a relay system. They are cheap and easy to do. They will take load off your light switch and make your existing lights brighter.

The old switches can overheat and trip the internal overload breaker at the most inopportune time. (Driving down a country road with your brights on a very dark night)
 

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I put halogens on mine many years ago, and then followed up with a home-built relay kit with a fused wire coming off the solenoid. Hid the two relays under the washer bag on the driver side fender apron.
Probably best to have a circuit breaker over a fuse.
I run H4 80/100 watt halogens with no relay.
 

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Is there such a thing as an inline breaker?
No not like glass fuse,but there is like an ATO / ATC fuse........ check out Colehersee.com ,this darn laptop won`t cut and paste today.
 

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Expensive, but totally worth every penny. No relays needed. Completely plug and play.


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These are some LED replacements I've been considering.


I haven't bought them yet, so I don't have any experiences to report. If anyone else has, please update us.

One of the things I look for is SAE/DOT approval. Even though there are solutions that are ECE approved, and technically very good, I don't want to get into an accident with non-DOT approved lighting and have lawyers or insurers make my life miserable.
 

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I like having my headlight relays, if for no other reason than, for the peace of mind knowing that only a small current is flowing through the 50 year old wiring, headlight switch, and dimmer switch while the headlight load current is flowing through a shorter, stronger circuit to the battery. And yes, the H4 halogen lights I have cast a better light and pattern.
 

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Expensive, but totally worth every penny. No relays needed. Completely plug and play.


View attachment 769927 View attachment 769928
Is the top picture your LED lows and the bottom picture your LED high/brights?

thanks,
Rob
 

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Is the top picture your LED lows and the bottom picture your LED high/brights?

thanks,
Rob
Yes. Top is low beam, and bottom is high beam. These don't even require a relay kit since they draw less than 5 amps total.
 

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Probably best to have a circuit breaker over a fuse.
I run H4 80/100 watt halogens with no relay.
A fuse or breaker does not add to the amperage capacity of the wiring and switch, which were marginal to begin with. Increasing current draw by about 45% over stock on an old electrical system is living on the edge. My buddy's 66 GT350 will have the have the headlights shut off due to the thermal protector in the switch tripping if he drives too long with stock high beams on. He will likely convert to relays soon.
 

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I made my own relay harness with thicker gauge wire and all soldered connections. I also added a third relay for the fog lights. Now that I have it done, I wish I had included a relay for the horn circuit to prevent that much amperage from going throught he steering wheel.

At the same time, I hadded a set of Delta 7" housings, and some basic H4 halogen bulbs. The improvement over stock was fantastic. Sorry I waited so long to do this.

*Having owned three 67 Mustangs spanning back to 1987.. I had gotten so used to the headlight "cut-out" issue that almost never drove them at night, unless I had no other option.
 
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I made my own relay harness with thicker gauge wire and all soldered connections. I also added a third relay for the fog lights. Now that I have it done, I wish I had included a relay for the horn circuit to prevent that much amperage from going throught he steering wheel.

At the same time, I hadded a set of Delta 7" housings, and some basic H4 halogen bulbs. The improvement over stock was fantastic. Sorry I waited so long to do this.

*Having owned three 67 Mustangs spanning back to 1987.. I had gotten so used to the headlight "cut-out" issue that almost never drove them at night, unless I had no other option.
Me too. Lights, horn and fan all on relays in one tidy little box w/fuses. I upgraded to 12 ga wire. While still running stock lamps, I can upgrade to any halogen lamp with no worries.(y)
 
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Expensive, but totally worth every penny. No relays needed. Completely plug and play.


View attachment 769927 View attachment 769928
I hope you plan on re-aiming those...they are blinding to other drivers on the road...I personally cant stand the fact everyone is driving around blinding me with LED/HID headlights these days. The fact is that as we get older our night vision degrades. Even factory LEDs/HIDs are hard for me to see around at night...ESPECIALLY on country roads in the rain....and all those guys who "upgrade" their lighting never re-aim their headlights(lifted trucks are especially guilty of this) making the situation even worse. If I am passing someone with LED headlights on a dark country road and a person jumped out in the road in front of me, I would never see them...no doubt about it. "upgrading" to LEDs(which the DOT should never have allowed to begin with) is contributing to the problem. I see just fine with halogens on all of my cars...there is no need for more light...if you need more light, turn on your brights...its the same thing, the same blinding effect for other drivers.

In the end we all share the same roads....upgrading to a headlight relay system and running halogens is as far as I would ever go.

P.S. I just noticed you do have your low beams aimed, so discount that.
 

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A fuse or breaker does not add to the amperage capacity of the wiring and switch, which were marginal to begin with. Increasing current draw by about 45% over stock on an old electrical system is living on the edge. My buddy's 66 GT350 will have the have the headlights shut off due to the thermal protector in the switch tripping if he drives too long with stock high beams on. He will likely convert to relays soon.
Since you quoted my post Chris,I was just stating the fact that a circuit breaker should be in your relay wiring NOT a fuse. Never said anything about amperage capacity etc.
Your buddy needs to start with a new HL switch and probably can leave it like that if he just has regular sealed beams in it.
That is how mine currently is (since 92) even with the high power H4 halogens,but with all this recent posting activity going on I have dug out the wiring I ran on my Ranger to see if I can fit it with out to much effort. On the Ranger I had added fog and driving lights as well as 80/100w H4 headlights. It has 4 circuit breakers and 4 relays-- One each for low beam,high beam,fog and driving lights. If I can run it without to much trouble it will run the same way except Horn instead of driving lights.
 
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