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Discussion Starter #1
Wondering if I should replace my harmonic balancer. My rebuild book says that you can sand it down with sandpaper but it looks pretty dry and cracked. Do you think I should replace it?

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my suggestion is that if you have ANY questions about the balancer, then rebuild or replace it. damper doctor is one place that does rebuilds. and summit racing has dampers for sale that are inexpensive enough, even the aftermarket ones.
 

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The rubber on mine was looking like yours, then my mechanic showed me you could actually wiggle the pulley. Bad sign. For 100 bucks I just got a new one. I recommend you do the same.

-Roger
 

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Discussion Starter #5
When I had my rotating assembly balanced, the shop required I replace the balancer due to the condition of the rubber. You might be able to find a vendor to have the original repaired. I purchased a new SFI-approved balancer.
my suggestion is that if you have ANY questions about the balancer, then rebuild or replace it. damper doctor is one place that does rebuilds. and summit racing has dampers for sale that are inexpensive enough, even the aftermarket ones.
Sounds like I'm replacing it-- the seal surface is a little grooved as well.

Any recommendations on part numbers or places to buy?

Thanks, Alex
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The rubber on mine was looking like yours, then my mechanic showed me you could actually wiggle the pulley. Bad sign. For 100 bucks I just got a new one. I recommend you do the same.

-Roger
Sorry, didn't see your reply. Thanks for pitching in. Where did you get yours? Were you happy with it?
 

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I got mine at CJs. paid hefty for the shipping, but i needed it next day since it was in a shop, not my garage. This was part of my " please help me make sure this makes it the 2 hr drive home" inspection.



DrC
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Okay gents, another factor to consider. I just realized the damper has been balanced by my machinist. Obviously, I don't want to screw that up. I'm going to call him and ask. Isn't it a little strange he would balance a damper that's no good? He's reputable and honest... at least, as far as we know. I'll come back with news on what he says.
 

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my suggestion is that if you have ANY questions about the balancer, then rebuild or replace it. damper doctor is one place that does rebuilds. and summit racing has dampers for sale that are inexpensive enough, even the aftermarket ones.
I've seen SO many stock elastomer balancers come apart and ruin the day/weekend/week I just don't even bother with stock replacements. So many good aftermarket ones out there. Make sure you know if you need an older 28 oz (3 bolt) or a newer 50 oz (4 bolt) balancer. From your pics it looks like you got a 28 oz....

I picked a Trick Flow SFI SBF balancer because it was sfi rated, timing marks were engraved on it, drilled for both 3 and 4 bolt patterns, and weights could be changed for 50 or 28 oz imbalance. I really wanted to find one with engraved marks AND made of stainless steel so it wouldn't rust or need paint. The Fluidampr is super cool but $$, can't be used for balancing because the weight moves in fluid, and may not even be available for yours.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just got off the phone with my machinist. The rubber part sticking up past the surface of the HB is normal— he suggested I take a razor blade and slice the excess off. I did, and it’s nice and smooth now; flush, too. As for the grooves in the seal surface, a sleeve will do nicely.

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Discussion Starter #11
I've seen SO many stock elastomer balancers come apart and ruin the day/weekend/week I just don't even bother with stock replacements. So many good aftermarket ones out there. Make sure you know if you need an older 28 oz (3 bolt) or a newer 50 oz (4 bolt) balancer. From your pics it looks like you got a 28 oz....

I picked a Trick Flow SFI SBF balancer because it was sfi rated, timing marks were engraved on it, drilled for both 3 and 4 bolt patterns, and weights could be changed for 50 or 28 oz imbalance. I really wanted to find one with engraved marks AND made of stainless steel so it wouldn't rust or need paint. The Fluidampr is super cool but $$, can't be used for balancing because the weight moves in fluid, and may not even be available for yours.
This is good information, thanks for taking the time to write it up. I'm reluctant to part with my original damper because it was balanced for the rest of my engine, and after speaking with my machinist, it seems more than salvageable.

Thanks all! I'm sure I'll be back soon... :grin2:
 

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This is good information, thanks for taking the time to write it up. I'm reluctant to part with my original damper because it was balanced for the rest of my engine, and after speaking with my machinist, it seems more than salvageable.

Thanks all! I'm sure I'll be back soon... :grin2:
Hopefully not back too soon, on this thread :wink:!
 

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This is good information, thanks for taking the time to write it up. I'm reluctant to part with my original damper because it was balanced for the rest of my engine, and after speaking with my machinist, it seems more than salvageable.
You are quite right. Unless the steel shank is trashed, you are usually better off having new rubber in your old balancer.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hopefully not back too soon, on this thread :wink:!
That's the goal! I'm in the process of building the top end (in case you couldn't figure that out :grin2: and I'll probably have more questions later. But yes, hopefully done for this topic!

You are quite right. Unless the steel shank is trashed, you are usually better off having new rubber in your old balancer.
Indeed!
 
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