[Stangfire]

Hi guys.

In the next couple weeks I'll be swapping out my old tired iron heads on my 1968 289 with a set of fresh rebuilt 289 heads.

I want to make sure I have everything I need to install them when they are ready.

It's mostly a stock 289 but with a mild cam, 4 bbl aluminum intake, headers and exhaust.

What will I need for gaskets? hardware, gasket maker, etc?

Depending on the gaskets perhaps it's cheaper to buy an entire kit from Rock Auto?

Also, do I need special exhaust gaskets for my headers? I'll try taking the old ones off soon and see what they look like. I also plan to do the exhaust port match on the new heads so I need to make sure the gasket I use as a template is accurate to the header ports.

Can I reuse the head bolts?

Any tips, tricks I should know about? I've done all this before but it was 25 years ago.

Thanks.

 

[Redneckgearhead]

Order the complete felpro gasket set. I like copper header gaskets. Yes the Windsor head bolts are reusable.

 

[Stangfire]

What is better quality gaskets? Felpro or Mahle?

 

[Redneckgearhead]

You can't go wrong with either of those choices. FelPro is the go to gasket for american muscle, but that may just be marketing.

 

[Stangfire]

Thanks guys, I'll order the Fel-Pro head set kit.

Hopefully the exhaust gaskets will be good with my headers.

 

[awhtx]

Hopefully the exhaust gaskets will be good with my headers.

No, the gaskets used with manifolds are not good for headers. The header gaskets are much thicker to allow for warpage of the flange. The standard header gasket is made of special paper but there are specialty header gaskets made of copper and other materials. I've never used these but I've heard they're good.

Ford (Edsel, Lincoln, Mercury) - Remflex Exhaust Header / Manifold Gasket - Gaskets

Ford (Edsel, Lincoln, Mercury) - Remflex Exhaust Header / Manifold Gasket - Gaskets

catalog.remflex.com

 

[Redneckgearhead]

What @awhtx said. You'll want header gaskets.

 

[LSG]

Stang, I'd get a FelPro headset, and yes, if you have the original head bolts you can use them over, TTY head bolts weren't invemted yet when your 289 was made. I would look at RemFlex or Hussy for copper exhaust gaskets. The thick paper ones that come in the gasket set don't really work well with headers OR manifolds. The rest of the set is fine, however. LSG

 

[HoustonGlock]

How many miles on the bottom end? If you're freshening up the top end, the bottom end has just as many miles on it.

Have you performed a compression check and leak down test to determine the quality of the piston ring seal?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[LeeFred]

@Stangfire Definitely get the Remflex header gaskets #3003. These were the first header gaskets I used that didn't blow out after a few miles. I won't buy anything else now.

 

[Stangfire]

How many miles on the bottom end? If you're freshening up the top end, the bottom end has just as many miles on it.

Have you performed a compression check and leak down test to determine the quality of the piston ring seal?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

The engine was fully rebuilt but at the time I didn’t have money to do the heads properly. So they were just cleaned up and bolted back on. Now I’m doing them properly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Redneckgearhead]

What issues were the original heads causing?

 

[Stangfire]

@Stangfire Definitely get the Remflex header gaskets #3003. These were the first header gaskets I used that didn't blow out after a few miles. I won't buy anything else now.

Thanks. Is that the correct part number for C6OE heads (1966) cause that’s what I’m using.

81-95 is the description for the #3003


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Stangfire]

What issues were the original heads causing?

They are large chamber 1978 heads. All original. They still work however the seals are leaking and I’m sure I’m way down on compression ratio.

I found a set of C6OE guided push rod heads I’m using.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Mustang4SF]

I went with FelPro to do my head swap. Worked out nice. You can reuse the bolts, if you want new ones go with ARP. Do you have a tap to clean the threads? You also want lubricant under the head of the bolts and the washers. Both is needed to accurately torque the bolts.
For the intake to head gasket you might want some RTV. You definitely want to use thick RTV at the front and the back of the intake manifold. Throw away the cork stuff. Use a thick bead of RTV instead. I personally use Ultra Grey. Others use Ultra Black or RightStuff.

 

[dobrostang]

. Do you have a tap to clean the threads?

I hope you meant thread chaser, like a tap but its made to clean threads, not cut them. Headbolt size is a good tool to have in the box

 

[Huskinhano]

On a side note but very important. Clean all bolts and female threads in the block thoroughly.

 

[Woodchuck]

Don't forget the following, in addition to that already mentioned:

Brake & Parts Cleaner (I like original red can Brakleen).
Lint-free rags/paper towels.
Sealant (I use Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket).
Loc-Tite thread sealant/locking compound.
OIl & Filter
Coolant (I always fill with water for the initial run check...if no leaks refill with coolant).
Hoses & Clamps, if applicable.
Cylinder head dowels (never hurts to have extras).
4 long bolts cut down for intake manifold "guide studs" (insert at each corner for easy intake installation).

 

[Stangfire]

Don't forget the following, in addition to that already mentioned:

Brake & Parts Cleaner (I like original red can Brakleen).
Lint-free rags/paper towels.
Sealant (I use Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket).
Loc-Tite thread sealant/locking compound.
OIl & Filter
Coolant (I always fill with water for the initial run check...if no leaks refill with coolant).
Hoses & Clamps, if applicable.
Cylinder head dowels (never hurts to have extras).
4 long bolts cut down for intake manifold "guide studs" (insert at each corner for easy intake installation).

Good idea with the "guide studs".

So the head gaskets go on dry?

Which hardware should have loc-tite? I usually use the blue medium strength on stuff.

I have the shop manual so I will be following that as well.

 

[22GT]

If the "new" heads are unmodified stock iron heads, you should seriously consider port-matching them to the headers. Two hours of work will make a substantial improvement in performance and economy.

Port Matching