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Discussion Starter #1
I found that the annoying ticking was caused by a missing header bolt, and as I scavenged a bolt off my gf's 66 (currently under restoration), I noticed that 5 of the remaining 7 bolts were loose also.

So.. Did a search and came up with Stage 8 locking bolts. Are they REALLY worth 35 bucks (incld. shping)?? Also, from the looks of it, the Stage 8 might not fit (pure speculation on my part) because the header clearance is pretty dang tight (Hooker). Couldn't I just get the ARP bolts and some lock washers? I mean, I know I could.. but...

Any thoughts and/or recommendations? Thanks in advance!
 

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IMHO they are worth it, but you could try to cheap it....

How about putting some locktite (does it work at high heat?) coupled with lock washers on the ones you have? Give it a try. If it does not work then go to the stage 8s.....
 

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I bought some grade 8 header bolts at autozone. The worked fine for me. You'll wish you had bought em if you break one.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The Stage 8's look very effective, but I guess what I'm really asking is if they'll fit tight clearances between bolt and tube on my Hooker headers. It's a very tight fit in there. Also, if anyone's just used lock washers, were they effective in keeping the bolts in?

As I was contorting to tighten the bolts.. I kept thinking that it's not a job I want to do too many more times. I had to use a box wrench for most of the bolts since it was such a tight fit with the socket wrench. So I'd rather do it right while hopefully saving some cash (to including having to possibly ship the Stage 8's back if they don't fit). Thanks again.
 

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Aaack! Don't use locktite: you'll never get those bolts out in the future! Most people recommend the opposite: neverseize.
 

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You dont need anything fancy; just to be armed with the information that HEADER BOLTS NEED TO BE RETORQUED ONCE AFTER YOU HANG THE HEADERS!!

If you put new headers on or remove and reinstall headers, the bolts will loosen during the first thermal cycle.....I've NEVER seen them loosen after one retorque.
 

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Have the Stage 8 with Headman headers, they work very well.
Dave
 
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I've had the same problem with my drag car. It seems the best solution... I HATE safety wire.
 

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I've got the stage 8's with sandersen headers... They work great except i couldnt get the locking tab on a couple bolts due to header clearance. Every bolt was torqued to spec when they were checked during the header break in time period.

Try ebbay, they probably have them for cheap
 

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"Are they REALLY worth 35 bucks (incld. shping)?? "

Yes, and they are easier to tighten the ARP grade 8s I replaced with them.

You can use a socket, allen wrench, or a combination wrench with them. I dimpled my tubes wherever a severe tubing bend created an access problem, to make tightening even easier.
 

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If you could get a box wrench on the nuts, you can get the Stage 8 locks on. You'll even be able to get the locks on most that you couldn't get a box end wrench on.

I have the Stage 8's on my '66. I haven't tightened the header bolts since I put the engine in. I have to retorque the header bolts on my son's '65 and daughter's '69 about once a year without them.

They're worth the money.
 

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They are worth every cent. It doesn't take too many blown header gaskets for the Stage 8's to pay for themselves. Not to mention time and frustration.

Lock washers are worthless because as the engine heat cycles, the "spring-i-ness" in the washer will relax. Also, don't use locktite.

As someone suggested, after the engine has cylced once or twice you have to retorque the bolts. However, afterwards, the bolts will still eventually backout, unless you use something like the Stage 8's. Even the S8's need to be retorqued, but you don't have to put the locks on the first time. Just install them like regular bolts, heat cycle the engine once or twice, then retighten and install the locks. You're done.

Oh yeah, I like to use Fel Pro PERFORMANCE gaskets.
 
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