[Guest]

I have a '65 mustang with a 289. The PO had put in hedman headers, but they scrape on everything. I am thinking of putting in shorties, any recommendations?

Also, I have never worked on headers before. Will I be able to do this on my own? Can I remove/install without haven't to put the car on a lift?

 

[hsr]

I just put JBA shorties on my 65 over the weekend. I used PN 1650. I bought them from a company on flea-bay. Cheapest price I could find $325 delivered (PM me if you can't find them). They were drop shipped directly from JBA. Not inexpensive, but they are the best shorties according to several on this forum.

JBA states you must use 66-70 style motor mounts. My car was a 6 cylinder prior, so I just bought the later style mounts anyway.

I didn't have any of the clearance issues to the shock towers others have commented on. The passenger side was on in less than 5 minutes. I couldn't get the drivers side on quick so quickly, but less than an hour for both.

I don't see any reason anybody couldn't do a header swap.

The only other thing I found installing these is that my speedo cable is VERY close to the collector on the dirivers side. After posting the question, and reading the answers I found it is a result of me using a T5 trans. Where the speedo cable goes into the trans is further back in the car than where it was located on the original 6 cylinder 3 speed. A longer cable woudl solve. For now, I have re routed it and clipped it to the inside of the frame rail.

Good luck,

 

[66CoupeNW]

Another way to go is Tri-Y's. Like shorties, the collectors tuck way up and don't have any clearance issues. Tri-Y's are probably the cheapest way to go. You can get Tri-Y's for under $150, although if you want them to look nice ceramic coating will more than double that price.

Installing shortys or Tri-Y's can be done in your garage with basic tools. You'll skin some knuckles and teach your kids a few new words in the process, but you can do it. However, you'll probably have to run her open to a muffler shop to have them adapt the exhaust to the new collector location.

 

[rhyno9]

Just an FYI about Hedman shorties pn 88400 should you look at them. They do NOT fit if you have the mechanical clutch linkage. I see from your sig that you are running a t-5 so if you had put on a cable or hydraulic clutch then they would fit. They are around $100 from most speed shops.

 

[johnpro]

What AdamStang said.

I have JBA's on my son's '65, and can easily say they are the best made headers I've ever owned.

I have full length, ceramic coated FlowTechs on my '66. Installation of those was a challenge, especially with the AOD tranny, and speed bumps are a REAL challenge. The JBA's installed within an hour.

I had a little clearance problem with the JBA's with the steering gear box when they were in my '66. But when we pulled the engine tranny and exhaust and shoved it in the '65 (including the same motor mounts), there were no clearance issues at all. I never figured out why *LOL*.

 

[G1967T]

A big plus for the JBA shorties is their thicker flange; other than requireing longer bolts (supplied with the headers) they simply do not develop gasket leaks. Two sets of Hedman and the one set of JBA's proved this to me. The ceramic coating isn't so much for looks but it keeps out the added engine bay heat that headers bring. That added heat can kill your starter, damage rubber parts, etc. The ceramic coating also helps develop a little more engine power.

 

[Axnjxn]

I just installed the JBA's about 2 weeks ago. While I wouldn't call the installation "easy", I think "straightforward" is a good description.

Unlike some of the others, I had several clearance problems. I decided to keep the 65 style "stud" motor mounts, though I had purchased a set of the newer mounts in case I needed them. I didn't really see how the other mounts would have helped. A couple problems I found with the JBA's:

1. The spark plug in the #7 cylinder is a PIA. I had to buy a comletely new tool to get it tight, and almost had to fab my own.
2. The other plugs are not easy, but are at least possible.
3. I previously had straight boot plug wires. There are a couple places where the 90 degree boots are needed (cylinders 7 and 8)
4. Usually the clearance problem is with the steering box. I have about 1/4". But my clearance to the shock tower is less than 1/16". Occasionally, when the engine is cold and idling rough, the header bangs up against the shock tower. Using the other mounts wouldn't have helped very much. BTW, I replaced the rubber mounts while I was at it, and now is the time to do it. The battery cable from the solenoid to starter too.

In all, these problems are likely to be encountered with any decision you make. I had the same problems that you did with my long tubes scraping on everything, especially speed bumps. That made shorties a must for me. JBA's by FAR have the best build quality of any header I have ever seen. I installed mine using Fel Pro performance gaskets, and Stage 8 header bolts (get the longer ones). Don't confuse these with grade 8 bolts, Stage 8 is the brand name.

In all, after I got the exhaust work done, I'm very happy with my choice. But, I can't say that I would look forward to doing the install again.

 

[BernieFrank]

I suggest looking into the Hooker 6901 Competition long tube ceramic coated headers ($320). I installed those on the Fastback with a top loader and original Z-bar clutch linkage. However, I don't know if other transmissions make a difference. They installed from under the car without needing a lift, just a little jacking. I did remove the Z-bar for the installation. The fit and finish was excellent.