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Discussion Starter #1
Ok. As some of you will have noticed, I just asked about your recommendations for exhaust
systems and the best coatings for them.

Ive got a good idea about the coatings and the right diameter for the exhaust.
But, I still have a question.

Which headers would you recommend?
I will probably go for ceramic coated ones, or less likely Stainless ones.

I currently have full size Tri Ys installed, and I think Id like to go with a smililar design.
What brands/makes would you recommend. Again, I want something lasting.
Ive alredy spent money on cheapo headers (those Tri Ys mentioned), and Ive learned that lesson well.
I also wouldnt mind if they dont require (too much) modifications.

My car has power steering and a C4 tranny.

Thanks in advance.
 

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I'll throw my hat into the ring. I bought a set of MAC long tube headers for my 66. They are very nicely made, I don't have them on yet though. MAC claims these headers will fit without have to get a bracket to drop the PS ram. hey also use a ball & socket design on the collectors like what the 5.0 crowd have on their header design for a leak proof seal without gaskets. MAC also sells a complete, mandrel bent 2 1/2" exhaust system too! Although the 2 1/2" may be a little on the large size for a mild smallblock.

I bought them because I'm going to be using GT40P heads in my 66, and these headers just happen to work with this set up.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well, right now Im alredy using the bracket to drop the PS cylinder. So thats not really a problem.
Needless to say though, that the cylinder sits pretty low that way. Not much ground clearance! /forums/images/icons/frown.gif

Also, the engine has slightly/home ported heads, Performer Intake and 600cfm Edelbrock carb.
Pertronix Ignition. A slightly hotter (Performer?) cam might be the next addition.
So it is a mildly tuned 302.
 

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If you are concerned about ground clearance, look at the shorty systems from:

JBA (pricey, very high quality, some issues with access to plugs)
Sanderson (somewhat expensive, very high quality)
Hedman (Very inexpensive, mid-level quality)
Repro K-code cast iron manifolds (mid-priced, flow pretty well, look stock for that "sleeper" effect)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Im dont really want shorty headers, tough I wouldnt mind a bit more ground clearance.

What type of headers is generally better flowing? Shortys or the regular "long" ones.
I (having not much knowledge about this topic at all) would think the long Tri Ys would be better?

Do the mentioned repro K Code header flows as well as the "long" ones?

I mean after all Im looking for some additional power by installing headers.
So I would like to pick the "best" ones in that respect... .

I have to admit that the K Code headers kind of sound interesting to me.
If they deliver similar flow/power as long ones, I will check on them... .
 

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K-code manifolds flow about as good as (but not quite as well) as a set of shorties. They are a tremendous improvement over stock manifolds. However, compared to your Tri-Y's, they don't flow nearly as well.

I went with the JBA's, and they are a real PIA to get in. Depends on who you ask though. There are a couple plugs, one in particular, that take some creativity to get in. But, after everything was all said and done, I think I made the right choice for me. I was sick of my long tubes trying to remove speed bumps. Plus, they leaked.

To answer one of your questions: Long tubes flow better than shorties. Most of this flow is realized in the top end, which is typical of exhaust modifications. The better flowing the exhaust, the more high end HP you get, but at the expense of stoplight-to-stoplight-chevy-killing-torque. You need some backpressure in the exhaust to help build low-end torque. So the answer isn't "long tubes are better for performance", it's really a trade off.

For a nice set of long tubes, you might want to look at the Hooker Super-Comps. I was really impressed with the quality when I saw a set. You can get them ceramic coated too. BTW, the one set of Sanderson's (shorties) that I've seen, WOW, those things were SWEET.
 

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Long tube header in general flow better than shorties.

The K code "headers" are not headers at all. They are talking about high quality, bigger exhaust manifolds that went on all k-code engines (other than some shelbys) that helped them be rated at 271 gross HP. These are much better than stock exhaust manifolds, but not as good as headers (shorty or long tube).

If I had to choose TODAY what to buy, I'd get the JBA shorties. I'm looking at an AOD conversion, and my information to date says that long tube headers won't fit with the larger transmission...the shorties are a good compromise between the ultimate performance header (long tubes) and the ultimate "hassle free exhaust" the aforementioned hypo (k-code) exhaust manifolds.

Good luck with whatever you decide.

Phil
 

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Some time ago, one of our members posted comparative numbers (from dyno runs) for the 3 styles of exhaust (full length, shorty, and K-manifolds). IIRC the power gains over the stock "A-code" manifolds were something like this:

Full Length header = 12%
Shorty header = 9%
K-code manifold = 7%

It has been awhile since I read that post, so my specific numbers may be off. Their relative rankings are correct, though. Hands down, full length headers are gonna make the most power. They have ground clearance, service access, and starter damage liabilities, though. If they are not coated, they will also generate alot of underhood heat (shorties will, too).

Shorties make less power (particularly at lower RPMs), but seem to combine the some of the features of the iron manifolds and the full-length headers. They do not fry starters and are generally as easy to work around as the cast manifolds.

The K-manifolds are cool (no pun intended) because the emit less heat and noise, have no accessibility shortcomings, are less likely to leak and will last forever. Most people wouldn't realize they weren't stock either.

Headers will last many years, if they are coated or plated. I chose shorties because I wanted the power without the ground clearance or starter life issues.

I hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok, so what is the best way to go for low end power?

You say that the long tube headers will cause the car to suffer from loss of low end power, but that they increase the high end power.

Now Im not really into racing at high speed, but more at having some decent power in regular city traffic.
Would the shorties suit this sort of thing better?

Obviously I dont have too much knowledge on that sort of stuff, so I figure I rather ask, than make mistakes in buying some "bad" headers...! /forums/images/icons/wink.gif
 

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IMO, yes. Around town the shorties are the better choice. However, you will be giving up some of your freeway power. When people compare dyno numbers, they are comparing peak HP numbers. Well, when accelerating, you are going THRU the rpm range, and what part of that rpm range you use is very important. For most driving, you never hit the rpm where peak HP occurs.

It's not that you will "suffer"" from loss of low end power. In fact, since you have long tubes now, you won't even notice. But when I installed my shorties and got the exhaust all buttoned up, I felt more low end, up to about 3000 rpm or so. After that, it seemed as though the car wasn't as quick as it was with the long tubes. Sorry I don't have any ET's or other useful numbers. BTW, I'm guessing one question that's on your mind is if the K-code manifolds will give you even better low-end torque than the shorties....probably not, but they will be VERY close.

Whatever you decide, you can't really make a "bad mistake." Different people go different routes to suit their style. K-codes, shorties, and long tubes all have their advantages and disadvantages. The only mistake would be to not match your own driving style.
 

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I'm looking at an AOD conversion, and my information to date says that long tube headers won't fit with the larger transmission

I have full length FlowTech ceramic coated headers in my '66 with an AOD. They're tight, but plenty doable. The only problem is in removing the tranny pan. After you unbolt the pan, you have to kind of slide it to one side, tilt it, then slide it out.

Now ground clearance is another story altogether ... I basically have none.
 
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