You may want to mention your mill, heads, and car?
Please post what you find cuz I'm in a similar boat as you; a T5z, Borgeson PS...
I kinda don't want long tubes, UNLESS someone can swear to me that they clear our ps box AND tuck up within the subframe rails because ALL the driver cars I've seen with LT's have scrape marks on them. Sometimes they use the same bend for the taller deck 351w, so when you put them on the 289/302 they're gonna sit waay lower. Performance-wise LT's are the way to go though.
Those two mentioned above are good options, not cheap at all, but high quality. The guys at Modern Driveline suggested JBA headers to clear our setups BUT the reviews don't jive. For low-cost option look at mid length Patriot Clippster Headers H8433-1. I've got the even cheaper bare steel version of these, gonna use 'em for break-in. Based on Summit reviews I may be modifying them for that steering box and shock tower clearance, and if I'm satisfied with them at that point I'll send 'em off to Jet Hot for ceramic AFTER cutting and welding.
I've got a roller 302, '68 coupe, Trick Flow TW heads so I'd need 1 5/8" runners minimum. To minimize interference I'm going with an internal hydraulic slave so I can run the ss line up tight. My exhaust is a 2 1/2" X-pipe with electric cutouts towards the rear that the PO bolted to cast hipo manifolds, so in a perfect world I'd find mid headers that would bolt right up, Lol...
Its a roller 5.0L block with PW heads (similar to the AFR 190s) and I've currently got the hipo manifolds on it. I've got DAZE hydraulic setup. The car is low. Full length headers aren't necessary. Mids maybe, and I'd settle with shorties if they fit nicely. Heck, some Tri Y's may also fit the bill. Guess it's time to make some phone calls
Make sure you confirm that whatever headers you look at will definitely fit your cylinder heads. On a lot of aftermarket heads, the angle and/or position of the spark plug is changed and that can screw up how certain headers fit. I have dart iron eagle heads on my 302 and couldn't find any aftermarket headers that fit. I tried a set of ebay tri-y's and JBA's. Both were a no-go. Called Dougs and they confirmed that their headers would not fit.
I wound up getting the FPA long tube headers and they fit perfect and don't hang down below the frame rails.
I have a 302, hydraulic clutch and the TCP steering rack.
I have Mac 1 5/8" longtubes, Borgeson steering and a T-5 with a MDL hydraulic clutch. The headers are about a 1/2" from the slave but everything works great so far. Engine is a 94 5.0L with TFS 11R190heads.
Attached is a pic of the header in relationship to the frame rail. Ground clearance has never been an issue
Another vote for FPAs. They are the best fitting header I have seen. They tuck up very tight. My bell housing and subframe connectors hang lower than the headers do. You’d have to ask Stan at FPA about fitment with the borgeson box (I’ve got a TCP manual rack).
I ordered my full length FPA headers over 2 weeks ago. Rowdy's motor is as or more stout than mine. I figured why screw around with anything less than full length when in the 400hp range? Stan rattled of everything that would fit and I think the Borgenson box was included as was the AOD so the T5 is a breeze. He said my hydro clutch was good to go. The only no go was my original side post starter. Give Stan a call and bring your wallet!
Just got a text from my credit card company asking for approval which I gave. So I guess they are on their way!
I was expecting an angelic choir singing in perfect harmony as I unboxed my FPA headers this evening from the reviews. Nope, just a bunch of expensive bent tubes with my name on them. I'm thinking the angelic choir shows up after they fit perfectly! Will these fit with my 65 motor mounts?
Ok I’m going to try and make this very loaded question alittle less loaded.
Right now I’m a college student on a hard budget. Makes things difficult. I’ve heard so many say they wish they dropped the cash on this or that instead of cheaping out. I want to know where I can cheap out and where I...
Doing body work now and going to paint the engine compartment and wheel wells soon, so I’m wondering if I should remove the large panel covering the top of the coil spring? Or is that a terrible idea?
I have future plans for coil overs, but for now I will just be upgrading stock style...
Below are pics of the steel wheels that came with my car. The previous owner was pretty adamant about having concours/period correct stuff but I don't know what these are...can anyone shed some light? I could not find too many markings or stamps. The beauty ring and the center caps...
So my 1968 mustang has an issue with Bump steer. So I have a bump steer gauge and been getting readings that show that it is toe in on both compression and rebound. I keep reading that "tie rod needs to be lengthen". What does that mean "tie rod needs to be lengthen"?