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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
There is a 5.0 Explorer and Fox on the yard, as well as a couple V6 SN95's.

If the Fox has an AOD, I am taking the engine and tranny if it is still there.

Otherwise, I will try for the Explorer 5.0 and a 4R70W.

If there are no 5.0's, I will try for the AOD or 4R70W.

I prefer the AOD because it is easier and less expensive than the 4R70W.

Wish me luck.
 

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I prefer the AOD because it is easier and less expensive than the 4R70W.
How do you figure? If you put it with a mild engine or drive slowly, the AOD is great - but its shift firmness and timing are similar to the results of a line item at a PTA meeting. If you put it with anything making serious steam, you'll spend a lot more swapping parts and fixing its lockup problems than you ever would with a 4R70W, which - even bone stock - can handle about 375 horsepower.

IMHO, 4R70W shifts better, works better, costs less, and most certainly is more reliable. Even if you add the cost of the controller and a sensor for throttle, it's a lot cheaper than fixing an AOD's problems so it doesn't shear its two-piece input shaft - and you can even keep the lockup feature.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Same price at the P-A-P, but a lot more money to install.

I have had several AOD's behind 5.0's and never had an issue.

If I were building a high hp, high tq engine, then I would reconsider.
 
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1965 Ford Mustang fastback T5 Ncas 9in Locker
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My 1st experience @ pull a part
LIFE MOVES FORWARD
God blessed ME...I hope God has Blessed YOU....think about it👍🥳...
We'd e are ALL " BLESSED" with Mustangs🐎🐎🐎
 

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In my own personal experience, I've seen lots of friends who bought "cheap" AODs rebuild them or buy fancy shop-built versions for $2500.

I have maybe $400 into my 4R70W, start to finish, and it should be able to handle about 600 horsepower. The controller was built into my engine's ECU. But even if I had to buy one, that's only another $400 or so...
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
How much hp/tq will my 5.0 with log manifolds, 500 cfm carb and stock cam put out?
 

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How much hp/tq will my 5.0 with log manifolds, 500 cfm carb and stock cam put out?
Definitely more then a 289. My GT40P has a stock Mustang 5.0 cam. Personally I have not had it on a chassis dyno nor any sort of HP calculator. My only reference is what a guy told me on FB who either works or owns a shop with a engine dyno. He told me he has run several Mustang engines with GT40P heads, basically my combination and said they typically make 280 hp. All I can say is it runs real well! Now I do have headers and a 600 cfm carb. Originally I was going to use stock manifolds to do a one day turn around. I didn’t want to spend extra time doing exhaust fab work. I did a little porting or more accurately clean up with a die grinder. I matched all the ports to gasket. However my biggest shock was how much it reduced in size at the outlet to exhaust pipe. I swear it was maybe 1-1/4” or. 1-1/2”. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to use them because of interference with the Z bar adapter. I would highly recommend you take a look at this and clean up the manifolds in this area.

I would go with the Explorer motor any day of the week over the Mustang. The Explorer uses much better heads and even with the milder cam, the better breathing heads are more then going to offset the difference in the cams. The stock exhaust manifolds with some minor grinding will fit the GT40P heads which are slightly better then GT40 heads. With my combination the Mustang cam pulls very well to around 5800. The stockExplorer will be around 5000 my guess. With automatic it should work really well.
 

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I have a '66 with 5.0 and AAOD. I rebuilt both myself. The AOD is not that hard. I used a dvd set from Badshoe productions. He is a Ford tech and an expert on Transmissions. It was about $45 for the set. Easy to follow instructions too. Also has videos on Ford differentials. Good luck with the pullapart tomorrow. I have one in Montgomery, Al that is about 35 miles from me.

 

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Pick outa nice 4r70 or 75 transmission and bring it to me, I’ll give you the built AOD out of my ‘66 for free. Oh and get me an explorer driveshaft as well. lol Good luck in your hunt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Walked away with nada. Went to both Alanta East and Atlanta South locations.

Wears me out walking the gravel all day.

Everything 5.0 and 5.8 was picked clean. Even the stuff that had been on the lot 2 days.

One 87 Crown Vic still had everything but it had been rode pretty hard.

PAP is having a sale on seats. The only Mustang seats left were the broken ones.

Did get some stuff for my SOL's BMW and Titan.
 
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I have a '66 with 5.0 and AAOD. I rebuilt both myself. The AOD is not that hard. I used a dvd set from Badshoe productions. He is a Ford tech and an expert on Transmissions. It was about $45 for the set. Easy to follow instructions too. Also has videos on Ford differentials. Good luck with the pullapart tomorrow. I have one in Montgomery, Al that is about 35 miles from me.

Went to Montgomery yesterday & got a 4R70w for my 67 vert for the 250 6 install . Let me tell you brother it was brutal. I told my son in law we're not pulling that Explorer rear end today .
 

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Walked away with nada. Went to both Alanta East and Atlanta South locations.

Wears me out walking the gravel all day.

Everything 5.0 and 5.8 was picked clean. Even the stuff that had been on the lot 2 days.

One 87 Crown Vic still had everything but it had been rode pretty hard.

PAP is having a sale on seats. The only Mustang seats left were the broken ones.

Did get some stuff for my SOL's BMW and Titan.
The gravel they use is too big, to walk on easily. Feels like walking a river bed.
 

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The gravel they use is too big, to walk on easily. Feels like walking a river bed.
Save your self ,just rent a golf cart. Those pull a parts in Atlanta are just too big to be walking around in . That first Mustang we were under must have been set in the rain because the machine left big pushed up ruts adorned with golf ball sized gravel .
 

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Walked away with nada. Went to both Alanta East and Atlanta South locations.

Wears me out walking the gravel all day.

Everything 5.0 and 5.8 was picked clean. Even the stuff that had been on the lot 2 days.
That got to be my experience at the PAP yards near me in the 1990's. There were guys that hit the yards almost daily to get the good stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
PAP East has one golf cart and the first guy in line got it. PAP South was busier than Walmart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Went to Montgomery yesterday & got a 4R70w for my 67 vert for the 250 6 install . Let me tell you brother it was brutal. I told my son in law we're not pulling that Explorer rear end today .
Tell me about the 250 install. I have everything to do one of those myself except the carb.
 

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Ok you ask .
From what I've read you can use any auto trans that fits a sbf , same with a straight shift bellhouseing . I think you can use a sbf flywheel or flex plate for a zero balance eng. Me I'm planning on useing a 2000 Mustang 4R70W trans off a 3.8. V6. To get there I'm going to use a 300 flex plate so my torque convertor bolts up . It will need a stand alone trans controller & a tps to operate the trans .

I have read you can use Maverick 250 mounts in a Mustang but have to drill a hole or 2 in the frame. I'm looking for a member on the Vintage 6 facebook forum who makes & sells mounts for this . The eng is taller & the stock mounts push it up too far , & even with the correct mounts a carb hat may have to be used to have hood cleareance .

The eng is also longer which with sitting higher means loose the stock fan & run a pusher elec fan because the water pump sits pretty close to the radiator ..

It all works out for me because I was planning an explorer rear end swap somewhere in the install of my alumn head,cam,& roller rockers on my 200 . My car The Money pit has been sitting in the shop 2 months after I installed a Hyper Spark dist so the Sniper could control timeing .& during this time all the trans fluid has leaked out I think maybe thru a pourus alum trans pan . For me it been a 3 year accumilation of parts for 3 different cars . My 250 is coming out of a 69 Ranchero I was going to work on but it's now a parts donner .

If you wind up doing the 250 swap you should give serious thought to a 2300 Sniper on it , my 200 runs like a different car after I put the 2300 on it .

If you find anything on this swap you think might be useful to me let me know . Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The Maverick mounts require that you drill an additional hole in the car frame on each side.

I have a set of 69/70 250 Mustang mounts, brackets and isolators.

The mounts and brackets are easy to source, the isolators are not reproduced.

A pair of mid-60s Dart isolators work if you drill one hole in the engine brackets. I also have a set of those.

The Dart isolators put the engine at nearly the exact same height as the proper 250 mustang mounts, so that is an option if you can't find Maverick mounts or don't want to drill holes in the car.

Proper 69/70 250 mounts.

Sleeve Red Wood Human leg Rolling
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Dart isolator next to 69/70 mount. Not bolted to bracket, just sitting on it to compare height.

Wood Auto part Automotive wheel system Machine Gas
 
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