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Discussion Starter #41
I have a good set of D8OE AB heads for $50 plus shipping. The worked fine when I pulled them off the engine in 2010. They've been on a shelf in my garage wrapped in a oily towel since I pulled them.
Thanks but that cc is too big for me.


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Discussion Starter #43
Got a photo of the OTHER side?
I’m going to look at them today. I’ll get more pics. They are fully rebuilt for $500. Used GT40P heads are going for $400 (which is what I was going to do). So if I get almost the same benefits I’d rather get these and I can keep my current headers. Maybe I would port them too. Seems like they have similar cc chambers.

What else should I consider? Valve size? Flow? What is the air injection ports? Is that good or bad?

I’m hoping they would be a performance upgrade compared to my large chamber 1978 heads.


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IMHO, the thing that you really need to consider is what kind of driving you're ACTUALLY GOING TO DO. Have a realistic power/ rpm range in mind and decide how to get there. We all think that we want 400hp, but unless you have racing in mind, it's not really necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
IMHO, the thing that you really need to consider is what kind of driving you're ACTUALLY GOING TO DO. Have a realistic power/ rpm range in mind and decide how to get there. We all think that we want 400hp, but unless you have racing in mind, it's not really necessary.
I agree. It’s not a race car. It’s a Sunday driver but I like everything a little better then stock. I feel right now my current heads are worse then stock.

I have a Holley 600, aluminum intake, headers, exhaust, mild cam.


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SF, are your hands steady ? You may want to do the grinder thing in the exhaust ports to get the Thermactor bumps out. Don't think of it as porting so much as just getting the cast iron boogers out of the way. So that the exhaust port gives you what the designer intended, rather than the foundry's approximation. These heads will breathe better AND increase the compression over what you have now, assuming your engine is wearing the D8s we think it is. You'll want some tophat washers to go with. At least, we have always used them when doing this. LSG
 

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I’m going to look at them today. I’ll get more pics. They are fully rebuilt for $500. Used GT40P heads are going for $400 (which is what I was going to do). So if I get almost the same benefits I’d rather get these and I can keep my current headers. Maybe I would port them too. Seems like they have similar cc chambers.

What else should I consider? Valve size? Flow? What is the air injection ports? Is that good or bad?

I’m hoping they would be a performance upgrade compared to my large chamber 1978 heads.


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They don't SOUND bad as long as the sellers definition of "rebuilt" doesn't mean a can of carb clean and a valve lap... I would expect the valves have been removed and ground and the seats inspected and lightly ground, valve guides checked and/or replaced along with new stem seals. You should see a modest performance increase due to compression and flow. If you don't feel comfortable messing with a die grinder consider some 1.7:1 rockers on the exhaust side... they'll help with the poor flow.

Sounds like the fellow might be a "GM" guy mentioning "Air injection ports", otherwise know to Ford as "Thermactor" which have been in pretty much all Ford small block heads since 1966, except HiPo's and GT-40P's. If you do happen to get GT-40P's DO NOT port or port match them. Believe it, or not, even with the small 1.45" exhaust valves they are one of the best exhaust flowing OEM SBF heads due to their port design and can easily be screwed up royally.
 

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I agree. It’s not a race car. It’s a Sunday driver but I like everything a little better then stock. I feel right now my current heads are worse then stock.

I have a Holley 600, aluminum intake, headers, exhaust, mild cam.


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I was basing my comment on your previous comment that it actually ran pretty well.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
I went and looked at them. They came off a boat motor. New valves, guides, seals, springs, everything done. Here’s pics.



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Houston, we have a problem,........there are several 351W castings out there, and all of the ones with factory 1.84 / 1.45 valves had the L shaped water passages, which these don't have,.....and the valve job doesn't look good from here, and they've been sitting awhile and have gotten rusty,......lets put your foot on the brake pedal, don't push yet, and lets think about this,.........LSG
 

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I would watch that rust/corrosion around the water jackets on the bottom there. That's exactly where I had issues with my old 289 heads. They were venting exhaust gasses right into my coolant at the middle port. If they don't clean up smooth have a machine shop surface them for you. Plus that would give the added advantage of decreasing your combustion chambers slightly and get you into the high 50's cc range.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Houston, we have a problem,........there are several 351W castings out there, and all of the ones with factory 1.84 / 1.45 valves had the L shaped water passages, which these don't have,.....and the valve job doesn't look good from here, and they've been sitting awhile and have gotten rusty,......lets put your foot on the brake pedal, don't push yet, and lets think about this,.........LSG
So you think they are the smaller valves?


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SF, what makes the seller think those heads have the 1.84 / 1.54 valves ? It looks in the picture like the valves are 1.78 / 1.45. Perhaps a ruler next to the valves in another picture ? The 351W heads that have the bigger valves have less space between the intake & exhausts, and the intake is closer to the quench pad, so these look too small. Unfortunately, you can't always just go by the casting numbers, because 90% of the casting number lists you find on the net are wrong. Those heads DO NOT have the L shape water passage, that was always my first quick identifying feature. When Ford began using the same basic head on 302s and 351Ws, the L shape water passage was squared out, and two bolt holes eliminated. The heads in the pictures look like the head that fits either / or. They have 351 cast into them to tell us that the head bolt holes are 1/2 inch. Ask him to measure the exhaust valves, even if he thinks he is sure that they bigger. He may have been misinformed about what he has. LSG
 

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Houston, we have a problem,........there are several 351W castings out there, and all of the ones with factory 1.84 / 1.45 valves had the L shaped water passages, which these don't have,.....and the valve job doesn't look good from here, and they've been sitting awhile and have gotten rusty,......lets put your foot on the brake pedal, don't push yet, and lets think about this,.........LSG
^ ^ ^

Yes, those a 1.84"/1.54" valves. Yes, it looks like a "spray bomb" rebuild.... I would call it more of a "refresh". Yes, you'll need to remove ALL of that rust. Before I'd even THINK about using them I'd get rid of the black paint, pass them through the surfacer on all 3 sides, and get rid of ALL the rust. Any rust present on a valve face or seat is going to result in a burnt valve and in the combustion chamber can lead to a hot spot and preignition. To me those are a $200 set.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Thanks for all the information guys. Very much appreciated. I’ll pass on these. I’m in no rush.


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Sf, just in case your guy sends you a picture with a measurement, and they ARE the bigger valved heads, offer him $100. You can remind him the heads need to be hot tanked, surfaced, and need a valvejob and maybe exhaust seats. The heads may have been ready at one time, but poor storage prep has left them needing attention. LSG
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Someone else ended up buying them and is now selling them for $40. They are cracked and rusted through. So much for being "fully rebuilt". Sure glad I didn't buy them. Thanks again for everyone's input.
 
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