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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a burnt valve on my stock 65 289 heads. I am debating a valve job or replacing with aftermarket. My current motor is a 289 with performer cam, manifold, and carb. It also has mild dual exhaust. I am running the stock 3.00 rear gears with a 4-spd. I would like to keep close to the same compression but with maybe a bit more performance.

Suggestions - valve job or aftermarket heads (and which ones?)
 

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Depends on how much you want to spend. It would be cheaper to repair your current set of heads, but with aftermarket heads you get the added benefits of hardened valve seats and, on many, brass valve guides. All of this can be done to your stock heads but you will start entering the price range of aftermarket heads. I would suggest that you find a either a remanufactured GT40 or World Products Windsor iron head. Both are performance upgrades over your stock heads and both can be found relatively cheap, even when rebuilt or slightly used. Even 351w heads would be a performance upgrade and they can be picked up at a modest price. With an iron head you maintain a stock apperance as well. With the mild performance upgrades you have these would be a nice addition.

If you want to go all out then AFR 165 heads or GT40 X305 heads are great aluminum aftermarket heads. They flow well and have small intake runners that are made for street performance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the response.

What confuses me is combustion chamber volume. I think my stock ones are 58cc. It runs well on 89 octane now. I don't want to loose compression or low-end torque. I would like to step up to slightly bigger valves - i.e. 1.84 intake. Will the 351 heads do this?
 

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find a set of twisted wedge heads, new or used they can be found for 995.00 new, mill them down to what ever your cc's are now even with the 202 160 valves and larger ports I could guarantee you will gain power from idle to redline and if you can run 89 octane now with the alum heads you could probably run 87. You would have no P/V clearance problems with that cam.
 

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Go to a junkyard and get a set of GT40 heads off of a 96 or so Bronco. Or, have your current heads rebuilt at about the same cost. Me? I would go with the GT 40's.
The aftermarket aluminum heads like the AFR (
Airflow research) 165's or 185's are a bit too much money for someone on a budget that still wants to afford 89 octane gas. ;)
 

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find a set of twisted wedge heads
Dont Twisted Wedge heads have too big of valves for a mildly modded 289 that is a street car? Just wondering. They are great heads; I just bought a set online for my 351w.
 

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I'm not sure which applications, but I know that a variety of Twisted Wedges need the piston's flycut. I wish people would say this in their post as it can cause problems if it isn't brought to someone's attention.

But I suppose if someone is investing in Twisted Wedges they would do research first...

Chaz
 

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Have almost the exact same set up as you do, except mine's a C4. Went with the Dart Windsor Jr heads on mine. Already has the hardened valve seats, 1.94/ 1.60 valves, 58cc chambers, enlarged posrts on intake and exhaust. Bolt right on - no special headers needed. Would be my vote for sure. I paid $850 complete for mine. If you do all the work necessary to get your old heads done, you WILL have more $$$$$$$$$ in them. They are simply not worth it. Good luck. Tony
 

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mustang289 said:
I have a burnt valve on my stock 65 289 heads. I am debating a valve job or replacing with aftermarket. My current motor is a 289 with performer cam, manifold, and carb. It also has mild dual exhaust. I am running the stock 3.00 rear gears with a 4-spd. I would like to keep close to the same compression but with maybe a bit more performance.

Suggestions - valve job or aftermarket heads (and which ones?)
How much is "a bit more" performance? What is your budget? You can lap your own valves for pretty cheap including getting a new valve to replace the burnt one if it needs it. If the seat is damaged, you need to involve a shop. If you were generally happy with the performance before, a simple valve job, that you can do at home, will give a little more performance since the valves will seal better and be pretty inexpensive. I don't know the going rate for a 3 angle valve job at a shop, but that is a solution as well. They;ll checkhow flat the heads are, too. New aftermarket heads? Depends on your budget and how much more performance you want. Lots of great product out there.
 

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I'm not sure which applications, but I know that a variety of Twisted Wedges need the piston's flycut.
As far as I know the good thing about Twisted Wedge heads is that you do not need to flycut your stock pistons, with specified cam lifts (up to .540 I believe), due to the design of the head; that is how they are advertised.
 

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If the heads are as used as one woul dguess them to be then a rebuild will run you into the $500 plus range. new guides, new springs and new valves not to mention maybe installing screw in studs, depending on the cam shaft you want to run at a later date.

I have the Trick Flow track heat heads on my stock 94 bottom end which is in my 65 fastback. They have a canted valve design that allows them to run a larger intake valve and larger exhaust valve over in line heads. I am running the X303 cam and I have well over .150 clearence when I checked them. matter of fact I never hit the clay with the valve!

I bought the heads new for $1000 shipped to my door and I drive the car on the street with no issues and i run a 750DP carb with a 5-speed trans and a 3.70 rear gear. Had a 3.50 gear in it beofore and it stll ran fine. The TFS heads have a thick deck allowing you to mill them down to get the compression you want. You will need new push rods (different length than stock) with the TFS heads and should install new ones with any new head.
 

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I wonder if any of you guys that say aftermarket heads will bolt on to a stock '65 short block have ever done it? ALthough I can't speak from personal experience on the TW heads, regarding inline heads.........

I have and they won't. Stock '65 pistons don't have any valve reliefs. The bigger valves will not have the required clearance...in fact, most likely the exhaust valve will hit the piston with any sort of cam at all...and that's if you don't mill them, which will absolutely kill your compression ratio.

No...if you want to put any decent head on your '65, you are going to have to replace your pistons. Flycutting would clear the valves, but this wouldn't be a good idea with your stock cast pistons to begin with AND it would make your CR even suckier. A good combo is AFR165 cc heads with 58 cc combustion chambers and KB116 hypereutectic pistons. It'll give you exactly 10:1 CR on a stock bore 289 once you consider your crushed head gasket thickness with a 4.100 bore head gasket.

Phil
 

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How about Ford GT40 heads? Do work with a stock piston?
 
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