The endplay is .006 so I think I am o.k. there. No, they are not fully grooved. Is that a bad thing? They are only grooved on the top side. Oh ya, I was going to make my oil pan hold another quart of oil also. I didn't have any oil on the bearings when I plastigauged it either. Here is where the money went: The block was TruDecked (basically decked using a jig to align the deck with the crank and cam), cooked, bored, cam bearings installed. I used DOOE-C cast iron heads. New valve guides, hardened seats on the exhaust side, grind valves, and machine for screw in studs and guide plates, machined .020 for compression, drill steam ports in heads. Pistons put on the rods, rods reconditioned and shotpeened, crank polished, oil holes chafered. Compete rotating assembly balanced. Part include, speed pro hyper pistons, arp rod bolts, arp screw in studs, guideplates, comp cam, lifters, melling high volume oil pump, cloyes street true roller timing chain, clevite 77 rod and main bearings, hastings chrome moly rings, comp valve spring, retainer, and lock kit matched to the cam, exhaust seats, valve guides arp rod bolts, and postitive stop valve seals. Then from other places I bought a weiand stealth intake, windage tray, head bolt washers to use 351w heads on a 302, mechanical oil pressure and water temp gauges, copper collecter gaskets, flowtech headers, stainless steel swirl polished valves (brand new on e-hay for $100 :

, and a set of harland sharp roller rockers which I found at a swap meet with 2,000 miles on them for $75 including polylocks! All I have to buy now is a set of pushrods, and ford racing polished aluminum valve covers. This is why I didn't want to pay another $150 to get a reground crank, as the machine shop couldn't grind cranks, because he doesn't have the machine yet. Compression ratio should be around 9.5:1. Probaby something that I missed also.