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Discussion Starter #1
My 66 289 GT came to me three years ago with a Pertronix v1 ignition installed and I'd like to go back to points. Temporarily, just to see how it's done. The previous owner left me with some parts. I've attached a pic, will one of these two work? Is it as simple as removing the electronic one and installing the old one? Is there a resistance wire or some 6 volts somewhere I should look for? I appreciate any help. Thanks!
Scott
 

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I put on the Petronix almost 20 years ago with NEVER a problem.
Stan
 

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I only had one Ignitor fail in 27 years and I replaced it with another one about 21 and a half years ago.
If there's an instruction manual, follow it in reverse. Google an image of the assembled stuff. Otherwise, remove the rotor and the magnetic sleeve, the screws holding down the pickup module will hold down your points. The condenser has one screw that holds it down. Manually turn the engine til the points block rests squarely on a high spot on the hex, set the gap between the points at about .017" (seventeen thousandths). Yes, there is a copper lead about 3 inches long that is screwed from the plate to the body of the distributor.
 
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The pertronix 1 used the resistance wire, your coil is for use with the resistance wire.
I'd swap points in, just so that you know how to do it ... workshop manual is your friend. Then put the pertronix back in, and the points in the glovebox, so that if the pertronix dies, you can still be mobile.
The pertronix 1 can die if you leave the ignition on.
I'm gunna remove a Mallory Unilite to go back to a factory distributor and points ... a little bit of maintenance, and points will work just as well as the pertronix.
 

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Looks like you might be missing the screw for the condenser? I've run Pertronix on everything for the last 30 years with no issues but your a smart man to learn how the points go in and keep them in a bag in the glovebox. When the great magnetic storm hits you can go back to points!
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks everyone, I appreciate the input. Yes I want to learn how to install them and then throw them back in the glove box for a rainy (or EMP) day! A couple more questions for everyone.

Sounds like that copper resistance wire is inside my distributor already just waiting for me to look?

So the red 12v from my ignition stays right where it is on the positive coil post?

I've got two sets of points, which is better the one with the hex screw or the one with the felt pad thing on it? Are both complete?

Is one of those condensers going to be better than the other?

Thanks all!
 

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I bought a couple of breaker plates from RockAuto so I can swap my tach tester over to different systems on the fly. Two screws and the vac advance and I'm done. Don't even need to set the gap when going to points.
 

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Thanks everyone, I appreciate the input. Yes I want to learn how to install them and then throw them back in the glove box for a rainy (or EMP) day! A couple more questions for everyone.

Sounds like that copper resistance wire is inside my distributor already just waiting for me to look?

So the red 12v from my ignition stays right where it is on the positive coil post?

I've got two sets of points, which is better the one with the hex screw or the one with the felt pad thing on it? Are both complete?

Is one of those condensers going to be better than the other?

Thanks all!
The resistance wire is pink and under your dash. Either set of points and condenser will most likely be fine. Yes the pos stays pos.
 
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Success! Thanks everyone! The silver one, a Motorcraft part, fired right up! I set the timing to 6 degrees and took her for a spin. I couldn't tell any difference, just as I hoped! Well she might have gotten a little hotter a little quicker than usual or maybe not. I broke out my shop manual and will study up on dwell and breaker point alignment to fine tune it.

Question, my breaker plate wiggles. I've tightened down all the screws I can find but it seems to pivot several degrees on some off center point on the underside. That's not normal is it?
 

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Here's an interesting article that discusses resistors in ignition systems. Why the Resistor in 12V Conversions ? Ferguson Enthusiasts of North America


Basically, it says that in the early days the electric starters sucked up so much current that the engineers wanted to use a 6v coil in the 12v system to ensure there would be a strong enough spark to fire off the engine when starting. Because of this 6v coil, a resistor was needed to cut the voltage back down to 6v after the engine started to prevent the coil from over heating.



If you don't have the pink resistor wire, you can wire in an external ignition resistor to your 12v wire. Use a multi-meter to find out how many volts are actually going to your coil. Also, if you have a 12v coil installed, you will not want to cut the voltage to it.
 

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... I set the timing to 6 degrees and took her for a spin. I couldn't tell any difference, just as I hoped! Well she might have gotten a little hotter a little quicker than usual or maybe not.
I suggest you advance the timing another 9 degrees. When I ran at 6 degrees (per the shop manual), my exhaust smelled like unburned gasoline and ran a little hot especially at idle. Advancing to 15 degrees did away with the gas smell and it runs cooler.
 
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Success! Thanks everyone! The silver one, a Motorcraft part, fired right up! I set the timing to 6 degrees and took her for a spin. I couldn't tell any difference, just as I hoped! Well she might have gotten a little hotter a little quicker than usual or maybe not. I broke out my shop manual and will study up on dwell and breaker point alignment to fine tune it.

Question, my breaker plate wiggles. I've tightened down all the screws I can find but it seems to pivot several degrees on some off center point on the underside. That's not normal is it?
Generally speaking, a little wobble (vertically) is not a problem. It's usually play in "separators" that facilitate the movement of the plate. As long as the points hold their setting and Dwell (length of time the points are closed) doesn't change.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Generally speaking, a little wobble (vertically) is not a problem. It's usually play in "separators" that facilitate the movement of the plate. As long as the points hold their setting and Dwell (length of time the points are closed) doesn't change.
Mine is lateral wobble, it moves enough to open and close the gap significantly.
 

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Mine is lateral wobble, it moves enough to open and close the gap significantly.
Are you sure that's not just the movement of the vaccum and mechanical advance?
 

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I literally uninstalled my points and condenser and installed the pertronix and flamethrower on my 66 GT today, saw a definite performance improvement today when i took it out for a test drive
 

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If it's that disconcerting for you, then, perhaps it's time to ship it to DAN Nolan at the Mustang Barn for a rebuild and a better "curve" that better serves your engine?
 

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Are you sure that's not just the movement of the vaccum and mechanical advance?
Movement, yes, but I'd call it slop. My top plate wiggles a little left and right. Its connected firmly to the vacuum arm, and the arm doesn't move at all. There's a little plastic button in there, called a wick for some reason, the slop seems to be around it and the short slot it rides in.
 

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If it's that disconcerting for you, then, perhaps it's time to ship it to DAN Nolan at the Mustang Barn for a rebuild and a better "curve" that better serves your engine?
I've been meaning to do this for 2 winters now and none of the gurus of vintage Mustangs are getting any younger. I feel I should take advantage of the acquired wisdom before they retire to a beach somewhere!

Sed6, old time distributors had a bit of slop if you moved rotor back and forth.
 
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Points...... what a joke. It’s 2019, not 1950. Even my 70 year old truck runs an electronic ignition from the 1970’s.
 
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