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Discussion Starter #1
hello: i'm a new user. and am in the process of restoring a 64.5 convert (5F08F155303). as part of an engine rebuild the exhaust manifolds needed to be replaced as they were cracked. i decided to use hi-po manifolds, and bought a set from "California Mustang". They assured me they would bolt right up. NOT. I have a bit of a problem with motor mount clearance & they're too close to the clutch linkage. Has anybody run into this before? Any info on how to solve the problem would be greatly appreciated.
Roger S in Washington State.
 

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Seems a little curious. Your engine mounts are in good shape?
 

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Welcome to VMF. Suggest you look at the Pacific Northwest section of VMF. Maybe someone close to you can check it out.
Stan
 

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Discussion Starter #4
as far as i know, ... but i'll check. there is some question whether or not i need hi/po motor mounts..., CA mustang didn't say anything about needing them, but they list them in their catalogue.
 

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As far as the clutch linkage is concerned, the HiPo manifolds require a specific z-bar. This may be your problem. The z-bar is being reproduced and runs about $85 from what I recall. You're probably already aware of this, but the swap also requires a special exhaust H-pipe setup. I'm about to do the stock manifold to hi-po manifold swap on my 289 and have been accumulating the parts. Trying to figure out the change to an electric choke setup on my 4100 autolite carb right now since the hi-po manifold does not have the hole for stove tube for the heat source on the conventional choke set up.

I was not aware that there was a need for special motor mounts also. ::
 

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Im pretty sure you need late 65 / 1966 engine mounts . It makes the engine sit up a little higher or lower in the engine bay than the 64.5 mounts do .
Id also vote that you'd need a different Z bar but I cannot say for sure .
Most 64.5 mustangs have to get the mounts changed to use even headers . I'll find out what I can get away with down the road when I try to use my original mounts with headers .
 

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Trying to figure out the change to an electric choke setup on my 4100 autolite carb right now since the hi-po manifold does not have the hole for stove tube for the heat source on the conventional choke set up.
That's easy. Use a electric choke element from a mid 70s Ford. I used one off of a carb for a 1975 Torino with a 2bbl V8. You should just be able to buy an element from the parts store and use it, no other parts needed IIRC, and its about $40.

I did this on my 2100, and I tried a 4bbl's element on it as well, and it would have worked if the element wasnt bad. :chainsaw:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanks very much for the note. & that is a sweet looking fastback. is the paintjob stock vintage burgandy? or a custom color?

and thanks for the info re: the HiPO manifold situation: The parts I think I need are:
1) The Z bar: I think I see it at: http://www.mustangsplus.com/Merchant2/me...duct_Code=03308
-- & Mustangs Unlimited has it for $89.
2) Looks like I'll probably also need new motor mounts.
3) & Mustangs unlimited also has a Clutch Equalizer Bar Pivot Engine Side (F1186 01) &
4) an Equalizer Bar Service Kit (HH218 01).

Am I missing anything you know of? Thanks much again... I have tried to add some pictures of my ole 64.5 at the link below. Best. Roger S in Olympia.

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/forums/photopost486/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=43014
 

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Thanks Roger. Great looking convertible. My paint is actually a custom job. Car was originally vintage burgundy, but I found that a little boring and made the change. Good luck with your convertible.

BTW I spent a few months in Olympia many years ago. I fell in love with the pacific north west based on that time. Very beautiful place.
 
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