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Discussion Starter #1
I'm a little concerned. 65 Falcon sprint. Brand new 302, T-5, Doug Tri-Y's. New Global West front end. Uppers, lowers, struts, springs. The car came with disc brakes and not sure the manufacturer. Here is my concern. I'm putting it all together now. Motor, trans, headers... all going back together for the first time. Now that the drivetrain is in and there is weight up front, it looks like the camber is way too drastic. I don't know if it's pos or neg but the wheels are angled with the bottoms in... like if you have it on jack stands. I put the 3 upper arm shims in as that is how many I took out originally. If I take them out, the upper arm bolts that protrude the engine compartment will stick into my headers. As it is now with the shims in the bolts touch. I have about 3/8 of the threads showing beyond the nuts and can cut them for header clearance. But I don't want to start cutting before I bring it to get alignment. Once I cut there is no turning back. But if I continue to assemble the plugs, wires export brace, hood, hoses etc... I will not be able to get to cut the excess bolt threads later. I only have about another 150 pound to load into the engine compartment at most (radiator, battery, hood). Is there anyway to preliminary check my camber now without putting it onto a machine? I would love to take the shims out and see what it looks like but looks are one thing and correct is another. If your not familiar with GW components, they come with a 3/8 plate that goes between the shock tower and control arm. They say to still use existing shims but it just seem too much. Also, I don't know what spindles are on the car and wondering if different spindles affect camber.
 

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You asked, "Is there anyway to preliminary check my camber now without putting it onto a machine?" Once aligned (for the street anyway) your tires will be virtually straight up and down. It sounds like you'll need to remove those shims to make this happen. But before you do this, let me as ask the obvious: After assembling the front end, did you roll the car forward and back a couple of times? The tires will always be at an exaggerated "positive" camber (which is what you've described) when first set down from being off the ground. Rolling forward and back will let the suspension settle.

Assuming Global West sent you the correct parts, a possible fix would be to install a "vario-centric" conversion at the lower control arm mounting point.
 

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I didn't roll it yet as I'm still on my elevated ramps. The drivetrain is not together. I guess I can push off & on. Does that really make that much of a difference though, (rolling it) ?
 

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I didn't roll it yet as I'm still on my elevated ramps. The drivetrain is not together. I guess I can push off & on. Does that really make that much of a difference though, (rolling it) ?
It sure does. Jack up any car you have now and put it back down, you'll see the same effect.

John
 
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