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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thanks to camachinist, here is a link to photos of the dual reservoir master cylinder upgrade for the 66 mustang, as well as photos of the rebuilt 302 both on the stand and as dropped into the cleaned up engine compartment. There are videos of my old 1970 sportsroof posted at this location, but I have not yet figured out how to retrieve them. You should be able to access them through this link. Enjoy. the NAPA supplied distribution blocks were easy to install and work with and cost around $15 ea. The master cylinder required installing bushings in the outlets in order to size down to match the pre-made brake lines. All bushings, fittings, plugs and lines also came from NAPA.
1966 mustang engine and engine compartment restoration
 

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Nice work. I also hit NAPA up for some adapters and brake lines when I put the dual reservoir master in my 66. I had to make some of the lines and learned how to flare.
 

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Any particular reason you didn't install a booster in front of the dual MC?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
cmayna said:
Any particular reason you didn't install a booster in front of the dual MC?
Owner did not have the money. It's 4 wheel drums right now. Eventually he plans to upgrade to power 4wheel disc brakes.
 

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I have never thought to run through two dist blocks/splitters. That is a great idea and now will keep me from having to fabricate a couple lines. Thanks, I love this site!
 

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That is a great idea
Why would you need to run two "splitters"?

The front brakes need to be split, but the rear brake line can (and should) run solo from the master all the way back to the rear end... then it's "split" on the axle housing.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
DaveSanborn said:
That is a great idea
Why would you need to run two "splitters"?

The front brakes need to be split, but the rear brake line can (and should) run solo from the master all the way back to the rear end... then it's "split" on the axle housing.

Dave
You are absolutely correct. On my 65FB, originally I used a union to connect the front-to rear line with the line from the master cylinder. It was sloppy looking and had the union suspended in air, which made it difficult to wrench on. Hence, this arrangement uses one of the splitters as a union by plugging the unneeded port - line in from the m/c and the line from the rear connects directly into the block without any cutting and flaring - direct fit. Using a block bolted to the apron makes it easy to wrench down the nuts and makes a cleaner looking install. Easy to check if any of the connections are leaking. I use a square of toilet paper and run it around the threads. It shows even the most minute trace of brake fluid.

Thanks for your (as usual) insightful and knowledgable comments.
 
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