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Hi all, after spending a couple of days installing the rear fold down seat and associated trim in my 70, I thought to pass along a few installation hints for those who might be curious. My stang did not have a fold down rear so I purchased a "complete" setup via the internet some years ago, and installed over the weekend. These notes are for those who are converting from a standard to a folddown rear seat.

The order of installation is first the plastic interior trim pieces, then the seat (don't ask how I learned this). Remove the hockey stick trim piece (underneath the sailpanel), and strip out the existing interior rear fibreglass trim pieces. Next, intall the seatback latches. These latches come apart for cleaning out 30 year old grease, by unscrewing the handles. Careful here as the handles should have a teflon bushing around the thread area. The bushing is what hits up against the metal latch body. It is easiest to install the rear quarter plastic trim piece if you leave the latch, spring and rubber bumper out of the latch mechanism until after the trim is installed. The AMK fold down rear seat kit has 8 red-colored machine screws to mount the latch mechanism. I used stainless steel since no one will see them.

Now intall the trim piece to cover the latch and rear quarter. A cover goes over the openings for the latch and latch handle. Frequently this piece is missing from the pile of parts which you bought as your new folddown rear seat. I am fabricating this plate/cover out of walnut.

Next is the fibreglas cross piece which fits directly under the rear glass and above the trap door. This piece fits over 6 mounting brackets and has spring clips with posts which fit between pairs of raised areas in the cross piece. These posts fit down into holes in the brackets screwed to the car body. I am fabricating the spring clips (which are missing from my "complete" kit) by using thin flexible stainless steel and drilling a hole to insert plastic "push" posts from the auto parts store. These are posts with successive layers of thin plastic circles. I can push these into the holes in the brackets and they will be retained. These pieces are similar to the push pieces used to hook up the a/c ducting, but larger. The holes along the bottom of the cross piece are for rivets, which secure the cross piece at the corners to the rear quarter trim and also along the bottom to the car body. The osborne book shows the rivets installed from inside the trunk.

Next install the front quarter trim piece. This is the biggest fibreglas trim piece. You may have to bend the tabs or install L brackets, if the tabs are missing, up front by the quarter post, where you enter the back seat area. The front quarter panel sits overlapping the rear quarter trim piece, then there are 3 bolts along the bottom to secure it. The rearmost bolt I found to be too short to catch the tinnerman's nut. These was probably because my trim pieces are upholstered. A longer bolt solves this problem. There are 3 screws along the top and 2 screws in front (which catch the tabs/l brackets). The rearmost screw along the top should not be installed until the hockey stick trim piece (running along the top of the rear quarter trim piece where the sailpanel meets it) is installed. This is because the hockey stick trim piece goes underneath the quarter trim piece. The rear most screw in the front quarter trim pierces the hockey stick trim, also. The rearmost scew hole on the hockey stick trim is very tough to get to. If you install the hocket stick trim before the cross piece under the rear glass, you will have more room for a screw driver, but then you have to bend the crosspiece, flex it, to fit it under the hockey stick, which risks cracking the cross piece. An offset screwdriver may be of help to you here. You are now ready to reinstall the folddown latch parts into the latch mechanism.

The next piece is the seatback. A hint here. Check the seatback you purchased with your folddown seat setup. Usually, those hinges are looser, perhaps even bent, when compared to the rigid seatback which came with your stang. These hinges received no wear in the rigid seatback, being used only for mounting the seatback into its rigid position. The seatback is the same for fold down and non fold down, so you can use the seatback with the best condition hinges. It is ok to install the seatback cushion at this point. The seatback bolts to the body using the hinges and two bolts per side. Lay the seatback down, forward, exposing the rear floor area.

Now it is time to install the floor. Oh boy, this one is tough. Before installing the floor install the strike plate for the trapdoor latch. I suggest looking at the two clips on the underside of the floor and replacing the screws which hold these clips with larger diameter screws, as by now the holes are usually stripped and the clips flop all over the place. These clips slide under brackets which extend from the trunk, parallel to the ground. Make sure you have the chrome oval stop rests intalled in the floor first, screwing in only the short, front screw. Also, it helps to have pierced the carpet from underneath the floor and inserted the long machine screws into the floor, at the point up by the front of the floor. These long bolts will drop down and catch (hopefully) holes in the hinges, where they bend 90 degrees towards the center of the car. ok, slide the floor in, angling the front part of the floor up, you will feel the clips slide under the brackets welded from the trunk, slide the floor to the rear of the car then drop it flat. Use a flat piece of thin wood, like a paint stick (won't scratch the chrome trim), to manuever the floor around until the two long machine screws at the front of the floor engage the holes in the hinges. Screw down these screws. Now screw down the two long machine screws at the rear of the oval stop rest. These will go through the holes in the brackets and then engage the clips which are screwed to the underside of the floor. You can now install the long piano hinge across the top of the seatback and screw it to the rounded "folddown" piece, if you have not done so already. I found it easiest to have installed this piece before putting the seatback in the car.

Last, install the trapdoor. First mount the latch and " handle" on the trap door. To hang the trap door, first install the hinges in the trunk, then position the trap door over the opening and screw the hinges loosely to the door. Go back into the passenger compartment and align the door into place (duct tape it in place or have someone hold it) then go back into the trunk and cinch down the hinge bolts. Since the trunk floor is now installed, it is pretty easy to line it up right to left and up and down - squared. That should do it.

A few notes: There are two cage nuts in the rounded "folddown" piece. These cage nuts receive the fold down stops, which are rubber bumpers mounted on "bolts". If you are missing the cage nuts, which is often the case, unscrew the metal backing from the folddown piece and you can access the cage nut area and install new cage nuts. If you are lucky, as was I, you will find the missing cage nut rattling around inside the folddown piece, when you take the metal backing off. A pair of channel locks works well to press the cage nut back into place.

another hint:
Before installing the seatback chrome trim, install the 4 rubber bumpers which belong on the seatback. Frequently these bumpers will have their "stems" torn off during installation. No problem, just use an extra trim screw, like the screws used to mount the chrome trim, and screw up into the bumper from the underside of the chrome trim. These are large bumpers and have enough rubber to absorb the screw threads. Works great and lasts longer than relying on the rubber stems. Might be a good idea to cutoff the stems and do this anyway.

ok, for a nice looking set of chrome trim for the seatback portion, take the painted metal trim from a non-folddown seatback (it is the same size), chemically remove the paint and then get the trim chrome plated. Typically, the painted trim is in better shape than the folddown trim, since the paint seems to last longer than chrome, without rusting and pitting. The pieces are the same, but for the paint versus chrome.

Well, that's about it. I hope this helps someone.






sure it's fun (most of the time), but it's only a car.
 

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Great bit of help and advice. I better print this out and keep it handy for when I reinstall my fold down.
Thank you

Keep those Ponies rolling.. don't crush them!!!

69 mach 1 390 GT, 4spd, 3.25L, candyapple redÊ
 
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Wow!!! Excellent post. 70 Sportsroof, you sure can make a guy feel guilty (as in I'm second guessing my installation work on my fold down)...YesI installed mine 12 months ago, and I wish I'd of had your instructions. Thanks for taking the time to do it.

70 Mach 1 M code 4-speed
68 HT 289 3-speed.
 

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Hi all, after spending a couple of days installing the rear fold down seat and associated trim in my 70, I thought to pass along a few installation hints for those who might be curious. My stang did not have a fold down rear so I purchased a "complete" setup via the internet some years ago, and installed over the weekend. These notes are for those who are converting from a standard to a folddown rear seat.

The order of installation is first the plastic interior trim pieces, then the seat (don't ask how I learned this). Remove the hockey stick trim piece (underneath the sailpanel), and strip out the existing interior rear fibreglass trim pieces. Next, intall the seatback latches. These latches come apart for cleaning out 30 year old grease, by unscrewing the handles. Careful here as the handles should have a teflon bushing around the thread area. The bushing is what hits up against the metal latch body. It is easiest to install the rear quarter plastic trim piece if you leave the latch, spring and rubber bumper out of the latch mechanism until after the trim is installed. The AMK fold down rear seat kit has 8 red-colored machine screws to mount the latch mechanism. I used stainless steel since no one will see them.

Now intall the trim piece to cover the latch and rear quarter. A cover goes over the openings for the latch and latch handle. Frequently this piece is missing from the pile of parts which you bought as your new folddown rear seat. I am fabricating this plate/cover out of walnut.

Next is the fibreglas cross piece which fits directly under the rear glass and above the trap door. This piece fits over 6 mounting brackets and has spring clips with posts which fit between pairs of raised areas in the cross piece. These posts fit down into holes in the brackets screwed to the car body. I am fabricating the spring clips (which are missing from my "complete" kit) by using thin flexible stainless steel and drilling a hole to insert plastic "push" posts from the auto parts store. These are posts with successive layers of thin plastic circles. I can push these into the holes in the brackets and they will be retained. These pieces are similar to the push pieces used to hook up the a/c ducting, but larger. The holes along the bottom of the cross piece are for rivets, which secure the cross piece at the corners to the rear quarter trim and also along the bottom to the car body. The osborne book shows the rivets installed from inside the trunk.

Next install the front quarter trim piece. This is the biggest fibreglas trim piece. You may have to bend the tabs or install L brackets, if the tabs are missing, up front by the quarter post, where you enter the back seat area. The front quarter panel sits overlapping the rear quarter trim piece, then there are 3 bolts along the bottom to secure it. The rearmost bolt I found to be too short to catch the tinnerman's nut. These was probably because my trim pieces are upholstered. A longer bolt solves this problem. There are 3 screws along the top and 2 screws in front (which catch the tabs/l brackets). The rearmost screw along the top should not be installed until the hockey stick trim piece (running along the top of the rear quarter trim piece where the sailpanel meets it) is installed. This is because the hockey stick trim piece goes underneath the quarter trim piece. The rear most screw in the front quarter trim pierces the hockey stick trim, also. The rearmost scew hole on the hockey stick trim is very tough to get to. If you install the hocket stick trim before the cross piece under the rear glass, you will have more room for a screw driver, but then you have to bend the crosspiece, flex it, to fit it under the hockey stick, which risks cracking the cross piece. An offset screwdriver may be of help to you here. You are now ready to reinstall the folddown latch parts into the latch mechanism.

The next piece is the seatback. A hint here. Check the seatback you purchased with your folddown seat setup. Usually, those hinges are looser, perhaps even bent, when compared to the rigid seatback which came with your stang. These hinges received no wear in the rigid seatback, being used only for mounting the seatback into its rigid position. The seatback is the same for fold down and non fold down, so you can use the seatback with the best condition hinges. It is ok to install the seatback cushion at this point. The seatback bolts to the body using the hinges and two bolts per side. Lay the seatback down, forward, exposing the rear floor area.

Now it is time to install the floor. Oh boy, this one is tough. Before installing the floor install the strike plate for the trapdoor latch. I suggest looking at the two clips on the underside of the floor and replacing the screws which hold these clips with larger diameter screws, as by now the holes are usually stripped and the clips flop all over the place. These clips slide under brackets which extend from the trunk, parallel to the ground. Make sure you have the chrome oval stop rests intalled in the floor first, screwing in only the short, front screw. Also, it helps to have pierced the carpet from underneath the floor and inserted the long machine screws into the floor, at the point up by the front of the floor. These long bolts will drop down and catch (hopefully) holes in the hinges, where they bend 90 degrees towards the center of the car. ok, slide the floor in, angling the front part of the floor up, you will feel the clips slide under the brackets welded from the trunk, slide the floor to the rear of the car then drop it flat. Use a flat piece of thin wood, like a paint stick (won't scratch the chrome trim), to manuever the floor around until the two long machine screws at the front of the floor engage the holes in the hinges. Screw down these screws. Now screw down the two long machine screws at the rear of the oval stop rest. These will go through the holes in the brackets and then engage the clips which are screwed to the underside of the floor. You can now install the long piano hinge across the top of the seatback and screw it to the rounded "folddown" piece, if you have not done so already. I found it easiest to have installed this piece before putting the seatback in the car.

Last, install the trapdoor. First mount the latch and " handle" on the trap door. To hang the trap door, first install the hinges in the trunk, then position the trap door over the opening and screw the hinges loosely to the door. Go back into the passenger compartment and align the door into place (duct tape it in place or have someone hold it) then go back into the trunk and cinch down the hinge bolts. Since the trunk floor is now installed, it is pretty easy to line it up right to left and up and down - squared. That should do it.

A few notes: There are two cage nuts in the rounded "folddown" piece. These cage nuts receive the fold down stops, which are rubber bumpers mounted on "bolts". If you are missing the cage nuts, which is often the case, unscrew the metal backing from the folddown piece and you can access the cage nut area and install new cage nuts. If you are lucky, as was I, you will find the missing cage nut rattling around inside the folddown piece, when you take the metal backing off. A pair of channel locks works well to press the cage nut back into place.

another hint:
Before installing the seatback chrome trim, install the 4 rubber bumpers which belong on the seatback. Frequently these bumpers will have their "stems" torn off during installation. No problem, just use an extra trim screw, like the screws used to mount the chrome trim, and screw up into the bumper from the underside of the chrome trim. These are large bumpers and have enough rubber to absorb the screw threads. Works great and lasts longer than relying on the rubber stems. Might be a good idea to cutoff the stems and do this anyway.

ok, for a nice looking set of chrome trim for the seatback portion, take the painted metal trim from a non-folddown seatback (it is the same size), chemically remove the paint and then get the trim chrome plated. Typically, the painted trim is in better shape than the folddown trim, since the paint seems to last longer than chrome, without rusting and pitting. The pieces are the same, but for the paint versus chrome.

Well, that's about it. I hope this helps someone.






sure it's fun (most of the time), but it's only a car.
I wish you had put it down in video. I cannot read this much without getting a headache. But small price to pay since I'm wanting to install a fold down in mine which had a stationary. Now it has nothing. So where did you get your set up? I'd like to buy one if reasonable. I don't even have the piece that goes under the big window. whats it called? The deck lid under the rear window? It attaches to the back board I think.

Thank you.

Rick
 
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