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Discussion Starter #1
Hello my friends and wish me luck. I'm going to install the Holley sniper EFI and the Holley sniper hyperspark ignition system. The question that I have, and the first of many is, both systems require a 12 volt start run wire from the ignition switch that originally went to the coil. There's only one wire do I splice two ends to that wire one going do the EFI and one to the ignition system?
 

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Hello my friends and wish me luck. I'm going to install the Holley sniper EFI and the Holley sniper hyperspark ignition system. The question that I have, and the first of many is, both systems require a 12 volt start run wire from the ignition switch that originally went to the coil. There's only one wire do I splice two ends to that wire one going do the EFI and one to the ignition system?
Did you buy the CDI box and the coil, as well as the Hyperspark distributor? I'm running this set-up so let me know if I can help you.

-- Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Did you buy the CDI box and the coil, as well as the Hyperspark distributor? I'm running this set-up so let me know if I can help you.

-- Mike
Yes I bought the whole shebang. Now looking at the schematics more closely I see that the wire that would normally go to the original coil that goes to the EFI and the ignition system just split the wire and then send one each. Now I'm wondering where the resistance wire is, is it close to the switch or is it right there near the old coil?
 

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On my 69, I got the start/run 12v signal to EFI from my voltage regulator which does not have the resistance wire like the ignition switch.
 

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Yes I bought the whole shebang. Now looking at the schematics more closely I see that the wire that would normally go to the original coil that goes to the EFI and the ignition system just split the wire and then send one each. Now I'm wondering where the resistance wire is, is it close to the switch or is it right there near the old coil?
I re-wired the whole car with an AAW kit, and a lot of the original wiring I've removed (ie - using a single wire alternator, no starter solenoid since it's built into the mini-starter, etc). The sniper instructions and diagrams are really good, as are the AAW diagrams. We got the wiring right the first try because it was all new and well-labled. My biggest advice is to make sure you wire the Sniper + and - directly to your battery. The kit is sensitive to EMI and the battery acts as a nice filter for electronic noise, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
On my 69, I got the start/run 12v signal to EFI from my voltage regulator which does not have the resistance wire like the ignition switch.
I installed a 130 Amp single wire alternator last year and I used that wire for the alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Okay, here's the question I've got three wires that need 12 volt power from the start run wire. The pink wire from the ignition switch is start run. Do I just bundle all four wires together? Or what are my options? I need a power wire for the distributor, power wire for the ignition box and one for the throttle body. Also the Ten Pin connector I don't need most of those wires what do I do with the excess I would feel bad about chopping them off but I don't want a floating around my engine compartment. I think I'll bundle them up and item ziptime out of the way for the meantime.
 

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Run 3 relays. Use the ignition as the trigger. Wire it like the post I referenced earlier. Bundle or trim the wires. It's up to you.
 

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does the sniper ECU control the spark on the hyperspark ? timing advance / curve limiter etc ??
 
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