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Discussion Starter #1
I'm just wrapping up a few items on my Sniper installation and had a couple of questions:

1)What are you guys using for throttle return spring setup? I am using a throttle shaft, not cable and the setup I had on my previous carb seems really stiff. Thinking I may need to change the geometry etc. If you have pics, that would be great!

2)How did you wire in the factory temp sensor? I have a second temp sensor installed into my water neck that is currently driving my electric fan relay, could I use that and get accurate dash gauge readings? I do plan to have the ECU control my fan ultimately. Curious what others have done here.

3)Where did you locate and drill the hole in the firewall for the handheld wire to pass through? Not real keen on punching large holes and want to do it once. Again, pics would be great.

I will add some pictures as I wrap everything up.
 

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IIRC, things will go silly if you tie your factory temp sensor (for the instrument cluster) and the electric fan wiring together. Would fact-check that, but I remember something about it needing only one output wire to measure the right amount of resistance? I do know that I haven't seen anyone tap a sender wire to go to two different places.

In my Powerjection install, I chose to have a new port drilled into the intake so I'd have enough holes for all of the senders. I just chose a spot where the metal was good and thick and got a nice threaded bung to weld into the hole. Fortunately I have a friend who's a very good TIG welder. It looks like this, located right aft of the thermostat:



Kind of sounds like you have the intake on already though, so that may not be a good option for you if you're opposed to taking things apart again. I wonder if you could temporarily set up another sensor by drilling through the top of the heater hose fitting (shown in my image) and threading that. Then when you swap the fans over to ECU control, just plug that or buy a new heater hose fitting and you'll be back to normal.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You make some good points Kelly, I forgot for a moment that the sensor needs to match the factory gauge :nerd:

So I think what I will end up doing is wire my fan relay into the Sniper ECU and then remove the fan sensor I have currently in the water neck and replace it with the sensor used for the dash gauge. Not sure if having it located in the water neck will give me grossly false readings or not, but I think in this case close enough is good enough since the Sniper handheld will provide a very accurate reading if/when I need it.

Your friend has some tig welding skills for sure, very nicely done!
 

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I have 200 miles on my sniper - i still have some bugs im ironing out

- the injectors tick SUPER loud
- I dont have my throttle linkage geometry that great, resulting in a sticky 10% pedal then a giant SURGE
- My idle is a high somewhat as a result of the throttle linkage


1)What are you guys using for throttle return spring setup? I am using a throttle shaft, not cable and the setup I had on my previous carb seems really stiff. Thinking I may need to change the geometry etc. If you have pics, that would be great!
- I tried running it with an additional spring (like my carb had), however after trial and error on different mounting points, the installed spring on the throttle linkage is best by itself

2)How did you wire in the factory temp sensor? I have a second temp sensor installed into my water neck that is currently driving my electric fan relay, could I use that and get accurate dash gauge readings? I do plan to have the ECU control my fan ultimately. Curious what others have done here.
I have 2 threaded holes in my intake manifold that fit the temp sensor provided by the sniper - mine were already in use (1 by a fan switch, and the other my dash temp gauge) I swapped out my fan switch one for the sniper, since the sniper can control the fan

3)Where did you locate and drill the hole in the firewall for the handheld wire to pass through? Not real keen on punching large holes and want to do it once. Again, pics would be great.
on a 69 there is a hole in the firewall driver side near the steering column, however I'm probably going to disconnect the handheld since I never really use it.

Heres a video of my sniper (and the ticking) - I had a temporary fuel pressure gauge to try and diagnose it was getting the required 60 psi.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ZdAzEGOCZfw?ecver=1" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have my gauge sensor in the thermostat housing and it works fine. I have 1969 with FiTech.

Dave
Thanks Dave, this will put a check in that box.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have 200 miles on my sniper - i still have some bugs im ironing out

- I tried running it with an additional spring (like my carb had), however after trial and error on different mounting points, the installed spring on the throttle linkage is best by itself
I read some posts on Holley's forum and the moderator over there was adamant that you MUST use a throttle return spring, not doing so is a huge safety concern. The springs on the TB are pretty good by themselves, but it makes sense to me to run a throttle return spring.

I have 2 threaded holes in my intake manifold that fit the temp sensor provided by the sniper - mine were already in use (1 by a fan switch, and the other my dash temp gauge) I swapped out my fan switch one for the sniper, since the sniper can control the fan
Good deal, this is effectively what I will be doing.

on a 69 there is a hole in the firewall driver side near the steering column, however I'm probably going to disconnect the handheld since I never really use it.
Yeah, the 68 has the same hole, but I have it pretty well filled with other stuff. I think it has a solid rubber grommet with a hole in it, I will see about making that hole larger or replacing the grommet to give some more room. Thanks for that!

I have seen your threads about your idle and ticking issues. I ran mine for about 10 minutes last night, just parked - no driving and I did not have the ticking noise like yours. You posted originally that yours was fine for the first 40 miles or so and then started, so will have to see what happens after driving it a bit. You have confirmed your pump pressure is the required 60PSI which is good. What size hose are you using for the return? Are you running a tank vent? I went with the Tanks Inc unit with in tank pump and sender. I am running 3/8" hose for both both feed and return and using Tanks Inc vent valve. Wondering if your pump/injectors are fighting with tank pressure? Good luck getting it resolved.
 

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I have seen your threads about your idle and ticking issues. I ran mine for about 10 minutes last night, just parked - no driving and I did not have the ticking noise like yours. You posted originally that yours was fine for the first 40 miles or so and then started, so will have to see what happens after driving it a bit. You have confirmed your pump pressure is the required 60PSI which is good. What size hose are you using for the return? Are you running a tank vent? I went with the Tanks Inc unit with in tank pump and sender. I am running 3/8" hose for both both feed and return and using Tanks Inc vent valve. Wondering if your pump/injectors are fighting with tank pressure? Good luck getting it resolved.

I didnt see the post on the sniper forum about recommending the use of an additional return spring - interesting point (I would imagine they should have provided the spring if thats the case!)

for fuel lines i'm using earls vapor guard efi hose - 3/8ths feed and 5/16'th return line - with a spectra efi tank and provided pump (there's no vent line on the tank, just uses the stock vented gas cap) -- interesting point on maybe its fighting the pressure... the ticking started after around 80 miles on the unit I wanna say near the end of my first tank full tank ... I have a request to swap it out but the tech I was emailing has gone dark (but maybe just on 4th of july vacation)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Do some research on this forum about the need for venting the tank. I was hoping I didn't have to run a vent since my cap was vented, but the more I read I became convinced that the vent is required since the vented cap is not sufficient. This may not have anything to do with your problem and not sure if the Spectra efi tank has a provision for venting, but thought I would mention it. And I agree, Holley should include a return spring or at least address the need for one in their manual. Other than that, so far I am impressed with the product. Hoping to put a few miles on it tonight.
 

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on a 69 there is a hole in the firewall driver side near the steering column, however I'm probably going to disconnect the handheld since I never really use it.
I'd love to know what hole you're talking about? does it just have a rubber plug in it? Or are you guys talking about the hole/grommet the engine gauge harness uses?
 

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I wonder if you could temporarily set up another sensor by drilling through the top of the heater hose fitting (shown in my image) and threading that.
This is exactly what I did with my brother-in-law's sniper install. Works great. Coolant needs to be flowing by the sensor at all times. When you place the temp sensor of the sniper in the thermostat housing, it will not be able to learn until the thermostat opens. IIRC, the instructions state not to place it in the thermostat housing. The sniper is capable of learning at lower temperatures.
 

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Do some research on this forum about the need for venting the tank. I was hoping I didn't have to run a vent since my cap was vented, but the more I read I became convinced that the vent is required since the vented cap is not sufficient. This may not have anything to do with your problem and not sure if the Spectra efi tank has a provision for venting, but thought I would mention it. And I agree, Holley should include a return spring or at least address the need for one in their manual. Other than that, so far I am impressed with the product. Hoping to put a few miles on it tonight.
oh man.... well now im all paranoid lol -- I'm wondering how I can add another vent line to the tank... maybe tapping into the fuel filler neck. I'll search the forum here and see if anything comes up
 
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