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Discussion Starter #1
Getting ready to order my fuel line and am considering using the oem style 3/8 stainless (assuming my research is correct that this will work). I have an Aeromotive Stealth II tank and was planning to purchase the Holley EFI Filter Regulator 3/8 NPT #12-875 and place that by the tank so I don't need to run a long return line.

My question - since I haven't purchased my fuel line yet do I want to run the 1 or 2 piece line? If I run the 2 piece I assume I need some pressure rated hose to connect the 2 or do I need to purchase specific fittings because of the pressure - sorry this is still quite new to me. If I need specific fittings can someone help me with what they should be.

Assuming I am still on the right path the plan was to enter the engine bay from the front wheel well just past the firewall and run it up the firewall as far as it will go - then transition to rubber the rest of the way.

I'm open to other suggestions as well.

Thanks!
 

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Getting ready to order my fuel line and am considering using the oem style 3/8 stainless (assuming my research is correct that this will work). I have an Aeromotive Stealth II tank and was planning to purchase the Holley EFI Filter Regulator 3/8 NPT #12-875 and place that by the tank so I don't need to run a long return line.

My question - since I haven't purchased my fuel line yet do I want to run the 1 or 2 piece line? If I run the 2 piece I assume I need some pressure rated hose to connect the 2 or do I need to purchase specific fittings because of the pressure - sorry this is still quite new to me. If I need specific fittings can someone help me with what they should be.

Assuming I am still on the right path the plan was to enter the engine bay from the front wheel well just past the firewall and run it up the firewall as far as it will go - then transition to rubber the rest of the way.

I'm open to other suggestions as well.

Thanks!
I used my original 2 piece fuel line for the returnless holley in tank fuel pump on my 69. Changed all the rubber hoses to efi rubber hoses and used efi clamps in place of original clamps. I get 65-70 psi at sniper inlet and no leaks.
 

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Hopefully I understand your question,

You'll need to flare and have some kind of intermediary plumbing to connect the two. Unfortunately because of the pressure that you're dealing with, just attaching a fuel line won't cut it. At a minimum you may need to flare the stainless lines (not an easy thing to do with stainless) so that you can convert it to the 3/8 NPT. If you look on Holley's website with the link you provided, they show you a pic going from the tank, to the regulator, then to a 3/8 NPT fitting coming out of the regulator and then to an AN fitting. You'll need a similar setup. I believe the equivalent to 3/8 line is 6AN.

One question.. any reason that you're married to stainless lines? They look good, but they are sometimes hard to seal, always hard to bend, and hard to flare. You might want to consider a nickel/copper alloy for fuel line. I just did my entire car with it (supply and return) and it's very easy to work with. If you can find some pre-bent, creating the transition to the regulator would be much easier than using stainless. Even regular steel would be much easier.

-Shannon
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hopefully I understand your question,

You'll need to flare and have some kind of intermediary plumbing to connect the two. Unfortunately because of the pressure that you're dealing with, just attaching a fuel line won't cut it. At a minimum you may need to flare the stainless lines (not an easy thing to do with stainless) so that you can convert it to the 3/8 NPT. If you look on Holley's website with the link you provided, they show you a pic going from the tank, to the regulator, then to a 3/8 NPT fitting coming out of the regulator and then to an AN fitting. You'll need a similar setup. I believe the equivalent to 3/8 line is 6AN.

One question.. any reason that you're married to stainless lines? They look good, but they are sometimes hard to seal, always hard to bend, and hard to flare. You might want to consider a nickel/copper alloy for fuel line. I just did my entire car with it (supply and return) and it's very easy to work with. If you can find some pre-bent, creating the transition to the regulator would be much easier than using stainless. Even regular steel would be much easier.

-Shannon
Thanks Shannon - not married to stainless, just assumed it would be better long term. May I ask where you sourced your nickel/copper from - thanks!
 

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MPS2,

I bent all of my lines (supply and return) myself since Holley didn't have that wiz-bang regulator when I originally did my setup. I started with EFI hose, then that started smelling, so I replaced them the nickel alloy. Harder than rubber lines, but looks much better and they will never rust. If you want to go that route, let me know, I can help out with the stuff you would need. Going with JIC fittings (a hydraulic standard) instead of AN fittings (military spec) will save you at least 50% in the cost of fittings. JIC and AN fittings are all interchangeable, but JIC standards are not as precise as AN and are perfectly safe for a street car.

I did a cursory web search for fuel lines and all I could find pre-bent was steel or stainless. Maybe there is someone else that can chime in. But consider regular steel.. how long did the original steel lines last on your car? 40+ years? And most people really don't drive vintage Mustangs in the snow and rain much anymore. Something to think about anyway.

-Shannon
 

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You can clamp EFI hose onto any metal fuel line that has a retention bead. Two-piece fuel line will have retention beads at the ends where rubber hose connects them (and at all ends where a rubber hose is designed to clamp). Just use EFI hose similar to this: Earls 750066ERL Earl's Vapor Guard™ Hose and a proper clamp for EFI hose: Earls 750006ERL Earl's Vapor Guard™ Hose Clamp. This is rated for 225 PSI. You can easily make retention beads yourself with a cheap brake flaring tool. This tubing is cheap and very easy to work with: Earls NC661625ERL Earl's Easy Form Hardline Tubing. You can also trim steel fuel line and put a retention bead where you need it. From what I've read, stainless steel is much harder to work with.

Here's a retention bead I made on original fuel line:
753151


Here's a picture of my fuel lines using the original 3/8 line for supply and NiCopp 5/16 for return:
753152


All the fittings you need: Vapor Guard Hose Ends - Holley Performance Products

This fitting will allow you to go directly to Sniper with EFI hose: Earls 785066ERL Earl's Vapor Guard™ Hose End. And this fitting will plug the return outlet on the Sniper: Earls AT581406ERL Earls AN Port Plug - Hex Head
 

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Don’t shy away from stainless tubing. It got a bad rap mostly from guys that tried it with cheap off shore flaring tools, poor quality tubing and questionable material preparation.
Read up on the proper method, get a good set of flaring tools and get the tubing from a place that specializes in automotive tubing like In
line Tube, you will be just fine.
I used stainless for fuel and brake lines I pn my car and had issues whatsoever.
 

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If your original 3/8" lines are not corroded, why not just use them like I did? They already have flares at the ends to prevent rubber hose from coming off.
 

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Is there a reason not to use aluminum tubing? I think it's much easier to use (just be careful about kinking, which can easily be avoided). I think it's cheaper, and it also does not rust. Were there reasons not to use Aluminum?
 

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Is there a reason not to use aluminum tubing? I think it's much easier to use (just be careful about kinking, which can easily be avoided). I think it's cheaper, and it also does not rust. Were there reasons not to use Aluminum?
As far as I know, ethanol is not good for aluminum unless it is coated.
 

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Getting ready to order my fuel line and am considering using the oem style 3/8 stainless (assuming my research is correct that this will work). I have an Aeromotive Stealth II tank and was planning to purchase the Holley EFI Filter Regulator 3/8 NPT #12-875 and place that by the tank so I don't need to run a long return line.

My question - since I haven't purchased my fuel line yet do I want to run the 1 or 2 piece line? If I run the 2 piece I assume I need some pressure rated hose to connect the 2 or do I need to purchase specific fittings because of the pressure - sorry this is still quite new to me. If I need specific fittings can someone help me with what they should be.

Assuming I am still on the right path the plan was to enter the engine bay from the front wheel well just past the firewall and run it up the firewall as far as it will go - then transition to rubber the rest of the way.

I'm open to other suggestions as well.

Thanks!
from the way you have worded this, it seems as though your plan is to run from the pump in your tank to the pressure regulator you linked then to the sniper and not run a return line from the sniper back to the tank, is that correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
from the way you have worded this, it seems as though your plan is to run from the pump in your tank to the pressure regulator you linked then to the sniper and not run a return line from the sniper back to the tank, is that correct?
Yes - that is correct (assuming my research is accurate that this will work)
 

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You can clamp EFI hose onto any metal fuel line that has a retention bead. Two-piece fuel line will have retention beads at the ends where rubber hose connects them (and at all ends where a rubber hose is designed to clamp). Just use EFI hose similar to this: Earls 750066ERL Earl's Vapor Guard™ Hose and a proper clamp for EFI hose: Earls 750006ERL Earl's Vapor Guard™ Hose Clamp. This is rated for 225 PSI. You can easily make retention beads yourself with a cheap brake flaring tool. This tubing is cheap and very easy to work with: Earls NC661625ERL Earl's Easy Form Hardline Tubing. You can also trim steel fuel line and put a retention bead where you need it. From what I've read, stainless steel is much harder to work with.

Here's a retention bead I made on original fuel line:
View attachment 753151

Here's a picture of my fuel lines using the original 3/8 line for supply and NiCopp 5/16 for return:
View attachment 753152

All the fittings you need: Vapor Guard Hose Ends - Holley Performance Products

This fitting will allow you to go directly to Sniper with EFI hose: Earls 785066ERL Earl's Vapor Guard™ Hose End. And this fitting will plug the return outlet on the Sniper: Earls AT581406ERL Earls AN Port Plug - Hex Head
You can clamp EFI hose onto any metal fuel line that has a retention bead. Two-piece fuel line will have retention beads at the ends where rubber hose connects them (and at all ends where a rubber hose is designed to clamp). Just use EFI hose similar to this: Earls 750066ERL Earl's Vapor Guard™ Hose and a proper clamp for EFI hose: Earls 750006ERL Earl's Vapor Guard™ Hose Clamp. This is rated for 225 PSI. You can easily make retention beads yourself with a cheap brake flaring tool. This tubing is cheap and very easy to work with: Earls NC661625ERL Earl's Easy Form Hardline Tubing. You can also trim steel fuel line and put a retention bead where you need it. From what I've read, stainless steel is much harder to work with.

Here's a retention bead I made on original fuel line:
View attachment 753151

Here's a picture of my fuel lines using the original 3/8 line for supply and NiCopp 5/16 for return:
View attachment 753152

All the fittings you need: Vapor Guard Hose Ends - Holley Performance Products

This fitting will allow you to go directly to Sniper with EFI hose: Earls 785066ERL Earl's Vapor Guard™ Hose End. And this fitting will plug the return outlet on the Sniper: Earls AT581406ERL Earls AN Port Plug - Hex Head
How does the 5/16” work as a return line? I am plumbing a Holley Sniper this week and the original factory hard line is still on the car. Using the old line would be nice if it’s got enough flow return without pressure. I am using the included pressure line for the feed.
 

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How does the 5/16” work as a return line? I am plumbing a Holley Sniper this week and the original factory hard line is still on the car. Using the old line would be nice if it’s got enough flow return without pressure. I am using the included pressure line for the feed.
There is no pressure in the return line if the end of it goes to a vented tank. If you do not have a high horse power engine which requires a lot of fuel, 5/16" should work for return.
 

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When Sniper originally came to market, Holley did recommed a 5/16 return. But Holley now recommends a 3/8 return. Apparently a 5/16 return works in many cases though.
 
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