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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm running through a mental list of "little things" that still need to be done on the car before I install the engine/trans.

Since I'll eventually be converting the engine to EFI, I'd rather run one set of lines that will suit both carb and EFI engines.

Although I've seen 3/8" mild steel tubing work for supplying carbuerated engines, I'm not sure if I've seen it used for EFI motors.

If I buy and bend up some 3/8" tubing and install AN type fittings on the ends, I can temporarily use these lines for the carbed engine (only one line actually), but then when I switch to EFI, use one for supply and the other for return. With the AN fittings on the end, I should be able to rig up low pressure connections for the tank and pump.... and then just switch these connections when installing the EFI.

I'don't see any reason why this wouldn't work.... am I missing something?

Thanks,
Dave
 

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Sounds good to me, all the latemodel Nissans in my driveway use high pressure rubber hose, clamps, and regular steel line form the factory.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
high pressure rubber hose, clamps, and regular steel line
Do you think it would be better to use AN type fittings to make the connections... or try to crimp/clamp rubber fuel line onto the metal tubing? I'm thinking that the AN connections would provide a positive (leak-free) connection more reliably than a clamped rubber hose...

I know this is the way the factory does it, but can the same results be obtained from the do-it-yourselfer?

Dave
 

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I think AN would be better.. Myself I just used 5/16 metal brake lines, flared the ends where the rubber went over and used a clamp. Except at the fuel filter where I used the ford quick disconnects (attached to rubber line). Doesn't look the greatest, but should work. I agree, I should have gone for 3/8, but since Ford used 5/16, as long as I didn't kink any too bad, I should be ok. (One area is questionable.. maybe I'm paranoid). In retrospect, if I knew my local parts store had a roll of the 5/16 nylon line sitting around he would have sold me for cheap, I would have used that.
 

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AN is the best in my opinion, clean look, easy to disconnect.

We used stainless hard line, routed it, then removed/cut it and welded stainless male AN fittings to each end. Then used high pressure hose with AN connectors from tank to male hard line.

Cant see the hard line in this, but can see the rubber hose from tank to filter/pump.
http://www.ls1speed.com/ptsc/artwork/cars/67/small/DSC01789.jpg
Bigger pic
 

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How much HP will your car be? When I put my stroker motor in my 5.0 that I will be adding a blower to, I upgraded my fuel lines to -8 braided from the tank all the way up, and used -6 for the return. I'm shooting for 500hp. Make sure the 3/8 tubing is enough to feed your HP requirement.
 

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3/8" is ample for 800+ HP in fuel injected applications. We build all our turbo cars with 3/8" feed.

3/8" ID is equal to #6AN.
 

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All the fox guys that are running blows or strokers or whatever in the 400hp range never seem to mention that they had to upgrade their 5/16 fuel line.. I imagine 3/8 would be PLENTY.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Cant see the hard line in this, but can see the rubber hose from tank to filter/pump.
Of course the most professional looking installation... ever... (read as pure jealousy/car envy)

I wasn't envisioning anything as impressive.

It's going to be hard to duplicate (read $$) your detail, but I'll give it a shot. I'm afforded some solace in that... what? no E-brake in your car? Or was this an in-progress pic?

Dave
 

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modulr: What did you do with the pump/filter? WHere are they located? WHat kind of fuel system you have going on, and what was done in-tank? Thanks!
 

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Yeah, no E-brake yet. I mistakenly ordered the rear Wilwoods without it, so I havent bothered installing any of the cables. I will probably "fix" it over the winter.

We made a 1/2" pickup tube and welded it to the fuel level sender. Then welded fittings on the outside for feed/return.

The pump is a Bosch 420L unit, it has a #10 inlet and #6 outlet. We made a bracket to hold the pump and filter, mounted in front of the tank. I will try to get a pic tonight. I will post a pic of the modified hanger in a bit.
 

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Sorry, don't mean to hijack, but curious as to what you mean by welded a 1/2" pickup tube to the fuel level sender? Was this just to get more fuel from the stock sender, or did you add a sump or something?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
We made a 1/2" pickup tube and welded it to the fuel level sender. Then welded fittings on the outside for feed/return.
Since I'll initially be running a carb'ed motor, I think I'll just leave the modification to the sending unit alone for now. I'll run the hard lines with AN fittings and temporarily adapt the fuel tank end to attach to the sending unit in the traditional manner. When it comes time to switch to EFI, the lines and fittings will be in place and can be easily adapted.

Lokar makes a nice Ebrake cable kit that works great with the rear Wilwoods. The cables are sheathed just about all of the way from the calipers to the stock front cable connection. The sheathing enables the cables to be routed neatly out of the way and not use the factory bracketry.

Dave
 

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Is it a Mustang specific kit, or universal?
 

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The tank adaptation for the EFI is one of the areas I'm iffy about. Fuel delivery wise, I think the 3/8 output from the sending unit would be plenty sufficient, but sump wise, I'm stumped.

Dave: When you switch to EFI, do you plan on just leaving the fuel pickup as is? Thats how mine is now, and I've heard of some people on this board having no issues with it (As well as the EFI writeup for Mustangs Plus. Not sure if I take that one as gospel though).

A lot of others on this board run a surge/secondary mini fuel tank with a low pressure pump feeding it, and then afterwards, a high pressure pump. I'm only running 1 high pressure pump right after the fuel tank.

I'm thinking of leaving mine as is for now and see how it pans out. Worse comes to worse I suppose i could buy a new tank and modify that if this doesn't work out. I also think that modifying the tank by welding a sump onto the bottom of it, plugging the original pickup line, and welding/brazing/soldering another fuel pickup line into the welded on sump would be a far easier solution than 2 pumps + 1 surge tank. Originally I thought gutting the tank and welding baffles in would be the best route, but then the sump idea came into play, which seems even easier.
 

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http://www.ls1speed.com/ptsc/artwork/cars/67/build_small/126006s.jpg
Bigger pic
 

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Is that in essence the same thing but with a bigger fuel line? I didn't take the 'filter' off mine to see how it ends, but is it just like that, it ends at the bottom of the tube? (Not sure if it was like that, or it was a long tube with perforated holes in it or something, which, wouldn't make much sense). Just wondering if you did it just for the amount of fuel, or it has something with the way it picks up the fuel for EFI?
 

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it is made in the same fashion as the stock part, only bigger, with AN fittings welded on the outside. The inlet side of the pump doesnt suck with nearly the same pressure as the outlet, so we generally go larger diameter on the pre-pump side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Is it a Mustang specific kit, or universal?
Nope, it's a universal, but it fits the Ebrake hardware on the Wilwoods like it was designed for them. I guess the only thig universal about the kit is the length. After it's routed forward, it's cut to fit and neatly connected to the factory type pivot point on the original Ebrake fulcrum located just aft of the floor support.

I'll try and dig up the PN for it, but we purchased it from Currie as part of the new 9" package.

Dave
 
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