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Discussion Starter #1
So quick issue, on top of the others. The horn isnt working and hasnt since we got the car. If you mash it on one side you can get it to go off so in a way it works.

The professional i took it to told me.that the wires are just shorting out and I needed a kit for the grant sterring wheel and then it will work.

Attached is a picture of the horn wires with button removed.

Can someone lead me in right direction?

Thanks.
 

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Can someone lead me in right direction?
The right direction is to run away from that Grant horn assembly as fast as you can. If you do manage to get that to work, then you'll have the horn button and firework shows to deal with. They are notorious for not working properly in the long run.
 

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I have a Grant wood wheel. The wheel itself is fine, the horn assembly that comes with it is crap. I got a Grant horn adapter kit that fixed the problem. I think these were the two pieces I got (at least it looks like them). You still need to be careful that the connectors on the back of the horn button do not short to the steering column as the clearance is tight, but a piece of electrical tape or another insulator can fix that.


 

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Personally, I'd opt for a stock/pony-style steering wheel and horn parts. Far too often, modifying the wheel/horn turn into a total PITA. This is another case of "just because it fits, doesn't mean it will work".Getting the appearance you want isn't always as easy as it sounds in the ads.
 

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Ok, it took a bit of looking because of how they lost things is very odd, but i believe this would be the correct part you were referring to snd would work with the legacy wheel.that is on there correct?

That hub will fit your '69. Most aftermarket 3 bolt steering wheels use the same bolt pattern. You will need a horn button to go with the hub.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok, so if i dont want to switch a lot of parts, and the grant ones will create a problem, what is the stock oem replacement part for the horn that i need?

I am.having trouble finding that part or parts as far as stock replacement.

Thanks
 

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Would this part fix my problem without switching out other parts or a new horn button?
That will fix a stock Ford steering wheel horn problem.
But your original post indicates that you have a Grant steering wheel. So are you going to replace the Grant wheel with an aftermarket copy of a Ford wheel?
Also, I believe you have a '69 Mach 1. Are you aware that the original M1 wheel was a woodgrain wheel with a "rimblow" horn switch? The wheel had a groove cut into it all the way around and the rimblow horn switch was a long piece of rubber with some magic embedded into it so that you could squeeze the wheel anywhere around the circumference and the horn would blow. Reproductions of the M1 wheel are quite expensive.
So which wheel do you intend to use- a Grant?, a plain '69 Mustang wheel? or a '69 M1 wheel?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok, so to be honest I guess I was confused. I am unsure what is currently there for a wheel so here are 2 pics. Plus the one above that shows the wiring. Basically i need to make that work.

Sorry for confusion. The mechanic who looked at it told me to get rhat partivular adapter. But i dont think he had the right part. He just said to get the grant one and I am not sure if thats what that is.
 

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That wheel looks exactly like my Grant wheel.
Buy the GT Performance hub kit, either the 10-6009 in polished aluminum or 20-6009 in black anodized finish. Then buy a GT Performance horn button, 11-1525 closely matches what you currently have.
Here are those items at Summit:

Yep, it's gonna cost you more than $100 but it beats the cheap Grant crap all day long.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yeah, with the shutdown and i am out of work, i may need to go other option.

Can you please show me the cheaper option?

I simply dont have a choice here.

Thanks
 

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Here's the Grant hub kit and the horn button.

About $40.
 

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I don't know who made your current horn button but it looks similar to a GT Performance button.
The Grant horn button has 3 small indentations around the perimeter. The "floating" flat plate consists of a phenolic disc riveted to a steel disc and there is a slight gap between the 2 discs around the perimeter. The 3 indentations in the button snap into the gap between the discs of the floating plate. There is a coil spring that fits over the tip of the steering column and pushes against the underside of the button. Pressing the button compresses the spring and the horn blows. Unfortunately the spring quite often overcomes the holding power of the 3 indentations and the button goes flying off into the back seat.
The GT Performance button uses an o-ring to keep it in place and there is no coil spring trying to push it off into the back seat. The center emblem in the button depresses and makes the horn blow.
Does the center emblem of your current button depress? What holds the button onto the steering wheel- 3 indentations or an o-ring or something else?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Here is some better pics.

I can confirm when i pressed hard on the horn to try to make it work i saw a spark jump out.

It kinda looks like it should have a spring, but there is not one. The horn button is literally just pressed on there firmly.
 

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Yep, the center emblem is not the switch so there should be a spring pushing that whole cap away from the wheel. And there should be some device to lock the cap to the fibre/metal disc. I would not waste any money on a Grant installation kit. You're going to get some free govt. money soon so wait until you get it and then "spring" for the GT Performance kit. I made the switch from Grant to GTP myself and it's well worth it.
 
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