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My horn hasn’t worked since I have owned the car. I just put a new horn on the car and tested it, it works. I then pulled the steering wheel and tested the two studs sticking up out of the steering column, it still works. But now when I install the steering wheel it won’t work. I have tried jumping it from the studs on the steering wheel to the top piece on the wheel, nothing. I don’t know why it won’t work thru the wheel, any suggestions???
 

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Could be fuse, could be turn signal switch, could be the contact plates on bottom of steering wheel. Could be column not far up enough toward steering wheel not making contact. Wiring.

Time to look at a wiring diagram and use a test light with visual inspection of the items I mentioned.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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One of the 2 spring loaded contacts under the wheel brings power to that point. The other spring loaded contact goes to the horn. Using a voltmeter or test light determine if you have power on either of the 2 contacts. You only need to have the battery connected. You don't need the key On. If you have power on one of the contacts use a screwdriver or a wire to jumper over to the other contact. The horn should blow. If it doesn't and you know the horn is good then there is a break in the horn wire somewhere. If the horn blows when jumpered then the horn switch in your steering wheel is not working.
If you don't have power on either of the 2 contacts then there is a fault between the battery and the spring loaded contact.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Could be fuse, could be turn signal switch, could be the contact plates on bottom of steering wheel. Could be column not far up enough toward steering wheel not making contact. Wiring.

Time to look at a wiring diagram and use a test light with visual inspection of the items I mentioned.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Ok thanks I will start with the fuse and go from there
 

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Discussion Starter #5
One of the 2 spring loaded contacts under the wheel brings power to that point. The other spring loaded contact goes to the horn. Using a voltmeter or test light determine if you have power on either of the 2 contacts. You only need to have the battery connected. You don't need the key On. If you have power on one of the contacts use a screwdriver or a wire to jumper over to the other contact. The horn should blow. If it doesn't and you know the horn is good then there is a break in the horn wire somewhere. If the horn blows when jumpered then the horn switch in your steering wheel is not working.
If you don't have power on either of the 2 contacts then there is a fault between the battery and the spring loaded contact.
I jumped those contacts in the column and the horn works. So it’s something with my steering wheel I believe. It won’t blow when jumping it on the top of the steering wheel
 

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Discussion Starter #6
One of the 2 spring loaded contacts under the wheel brings power to that point. The other spring loaded contact goes to the horn. Using a voltmeter or test light determine if you have power on either of the 2 contacts. You only need to have the battery connected. You don't need the key On. If you have power on one of the contacts use a screwdriver or a wire to jumper over to the other contact. The horn should blow. If it doesn't and you know the horn is good then there is a break in the horn wire somewhere. If the horn blows when jumpered then the horn switch in your steering wheel is not working.
If you don't have power on either of the 2 contacts then there is a fault between the battery and the spring loaded contact.
I jumped those contacts in the column and the horn works. So it’s something with my steering wheel I believe. It won’t blow when jumping it on the top of the steering wheel
 

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Sometimes the little contacts need to be tweaked a little. If it ever shorted, it could have welded and actually burned off a bit of the contact.
 

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I found this post. Sounds like there are early and late steering wheels with different contact plates.

64.5 steering wheel replacement
Yes the "early '65" is what we commonly refer to as a '64.5. The '64.5 cars all had generators with a relay in the horn circuit. Pressing the horn button on a '64.5 completed the ground circuit for the relay which closed it and the horn blew.
 

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We need some more info than you have given us. First the basics

What year car are we talking about. If 65 is it a 64 1/2 (generator) or a true 65 (Alternator)?
Now do yup have an original Ford Steering Wheel or an aftermarket?
If Original is it standard or Pony?
If original, look at the base of the wheel. Is it cracked, or warped out of round?

90% of original wheels are cracked or warped. This causes alignment problems with the horn contacts. Sometimes you can tweek them enough to work. Often times you need a new wheel.
Have you looked at all the horn parts in the column and wheel? I have seen many wheels with incorrect parts, missing parts, homemade parts, Improperly installed parts etc.

Pictures would really help here
 

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Based on it working at the contacts, if your components are all correct, it'll generally be that the steering column needs to be loosened at the U bracket and slid upward to close the gap between the wheel and column.

Also, are the contacts parallel to one another, and are they perpendicular to the turn signal plate? They need to be in line line with the commutator rings on the back side of the steering wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Its
We need some more info than you have given us. First the basics

What year car are we talking about. If 65 is it a 64 1/2 (generator) or a true 65 (Alternator)?
Now do yup have an original Ford Steering Wheel or an aftermarket?
If Original is it standard or Pony?
If original, look at the base of the wheel. Is it cracked, or warped out of round?

90% of original wheels are cracked or warped. This causes alignment problems with the horn contacts. Sometimes you can tweek them enough to work. Often times you need a new wheel.
Have you looked at all the horn parts in the column and wheel? I have seen many wheels with incorrect parts, missing parts, homemade parts, Improperly installed parts etc.

Pictures would really help here
It’s a 65 standard, not a pony, it does have the alternator. The wheel is cracked a little but not bad. It does seem to be out of round or warped but I will look this weekend. Everything in the column looks original
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Based on it working at the contacts, if your components are all correct, it'll generally be that the steering column needs to be loosened at the U bracket and slid upward to close the gap between the wheel and column.

Also, are the contacts parallel to one another, and are they perpendicular to the turn signal plate? They need to be in line line with the commutator rings on the back side of the steering wheel.
I will try that this weekend and see what happens
 

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The contact plates are probably worn out. You have to consider that every time you move the steering wheel those two posts are dragging against thin copper slides on the bottom plate.
After replacing my turn signal switch a number of times, my horn is now connected to a button under my dash. The repro switches are junk.
 
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