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Discussion Starter #1
Look at that front wheel.
Is this normal?
Does this mean my Shelby drop is way overdue?

756868
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That is negative camber and you have something wrong, bad ball joint or two would be a good guess.
Negative! Oh yes, that's true!

Thanks for confirming my suspicions. How would I diagnose this?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
A wheel alignment check would help, where abouts in Perth are you..?
Hey man, I'm in Willetton, south of the river. What about you?

Was planning a few upgrades before getting an alignment - namely Shelby drop, GT coil springs, 1" sway bar and monte carlo bar
 

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I don't think you need an alignment shop to diagnose. I suspect there is a mechanical issue and any shop can put it up on rack and tell you real quick what the issue is, and of course offer to fix it. Once fixed, then time to do actual alignment.
 

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I would say that's pretty much normal. First off the car is not sitting. You're turning and the body is rolling. With the stock caster wich can be slightly negative to zero, when you turn the wheel to the right you're really going to notice the caster angle. In this case, lack of caster with the wheel turned as in the photo, it's going to make the top of the tire leaning towards the back of the car and the contact patch on the ground more towards the front. Combined with the poor camber gain of the stock suspension, it's going to exaggerate the camber. In this case negative. End result the tire looks like it's being dragged in the turn, which basically is what is going on instead of biting into the pavement for grip. If you look at my car with the wheels turned to the left. I have 4° of positive caster and a little over 1° negative camber. It really shows the caster angle with the top of the tire leaning towards the firewall. If I had let's say 4° negative caster, it would make the top of the tire looking like it's leaning towards the radiator. And either way it's going to exaggerate how the camber looks being turn. Every movement up and down in the suspension changes both caster and camber along with toe.

Of course you should always check for worn parts
756896
 

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Let's see a still jpg with the car in the driveway and the steering wheel and tires straight.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995
 
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Probably normal with the stock, non-modified suspension as you can see below. Takes more than just the Shelby drop to fix but that is one item that should be on the list. I m not suggesting that you bypass checking the front suspension for worn out parts but these cars weren't built to carve corners to begin with so even if the whole front suspension is new stock its going to do what you see.

 

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Discussion Starter #10
Probably normal with the stock, non-modified suspension as you can see below. Takes more than just the Shelby drop to fix but that is one item that should be on the list. I m not suggesting that you bypass checking the front suspension for worn out parts but these cars weren't built to carve corners to begin with so even if the whole front suspension is new stock its going to do what you see.
Yikes! I see what you mean, looks like a bad ankle sprain!!
So apart from a Shelby drop and stiffer (1" ?) sway bar, and new ball joints what else would you suggest?
What parts specifically should I check to see if they're worn out?
All bushings were changed 7 years ago.
Here's a photo from the side. I'll go take a front on view photo too this afternoon.

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Hey man, I'm in Willetton, south of the river. What about you?

Was planning a few upgrades before getting an alignment - namely Shelby drop, GT coil springs, 1" sway bar and monte carlo bar
Hey man, I'm in Willetton, south of the river. What about you?

Was planning a few upgrades before getting an alignment - namely Shelby drop, GT coil springs, 1" sway bar and monte carlo bar
Lived in Atwell and Canningvale for a while back in Vic for the last 6 years
 

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You will get improved alignment spec's with the Shelby drop. A bigger anti-sway bar, stronger springs front and rear and some decent performance rated gas shocks will all help. Also, an export brace, monte carlo bar and I would add sub fame connectors to keep the chassis twist down.

Another thing that is an issue is the rubber bushed strut rods. I've seen videos of these things compressing and de-compressing with people driving their car and making turns. Poly bushings are made for these but they can be dangerous and cause the strut to break or so I have read. I went with adjustable strut rods that eliminate the bushings.

While you are working on this stuff, put a light in the engine bay on the shock tower on each side and look from the tire side to see if you have any cracks trying to form. It is fairly common and they often come out from the control arm bolt holes. Welcome to the rabbit hole, lol, because once you start down in there it could take some effort to get out the other side of it.

You can go a lot further addressing this but it depends what you are wanting to do with the car or how original you want to keep it.
 

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normal for stock. 1'' lower will make the outside tire go negative and the inside tire go positive and thats what you want. all the tread on the pavement for max traction.
 

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I think the body roll point is also right on. Picture the vertical mount where the Upper and lower control arms attach. For illustration sake, assume it is vertical at a stand still with , now with stock springs and sway bar - check out the body roll in those photos and from a front view imagine that vertical mount is rolled also and no longer vertical, so beyond any geometric issues with teh suspension, the mount itself is canted inward pulling the UCA inward or outward on the other side of the car. That is why it takes a full suspension design for how you want to use the car not just one part that gets changed to deviate from stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Welcome to the rabbit hole, lol, because once you start down in there it could take some effort to get out the other side of it
:D This is exactly what is happening to me now!! I'm trying to decide exactly how little I need to do to make my car drive a lot better haha!!

At this point I'm thinking:

1. Shelby drop with stock UCA
2. New ball joints
3. Roller perches to help with the drop
4. Stiffer sway bar
5. New leaf springs because the rear is saggy and lop-sided

And if that still doesn't help...

5. New front shocks and/or new front shocks

(I already have an export brace and a monte carlo bar coming soon. I've thought about sub-frame connectors. Would they help stop those nasty paint cracks at the rear windows where the drip rail ends?)
 
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