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Discussion Starter #1
I'm about to yank out all the stuff that I can in the engine compartment and give it a good detailing. This will include painting the engine blue, the engine compartment black, and various other things to try to make the engine bay look a little nicer. I'm probably going to put new valve covers and possibly a new intake/carb/air cleaner.

I'm not taking the engine out, because it runs fine. In a year or two when I'm finished with the other junk I want to do on the stang, I'll probably pull the engine and do a build up on it. At that point I'll probably really try to do a good job on the engine bay. But for now I just want to get it looking as nice as I can with the engine still in the car.

Besides a rust problem under the battery tray, ok it's a hole /forums/images/icons/smile.gif, there are a few areas on the fender aprons that have a little rust on them. Now, I know this is a common area for rust, but how should I fix it? ALSO, what about the stupid nasty intake manifolds? Eventually when I do a dual exhaust I'll probably replace them with headers, but for now?

You can see in the picture where I've circled in red.

Thanks!
Andy

http://www.krowczyk.net/mustang/images/rust.jpg
 

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I can't give you as good of advice about the hole as some of the other guys, so I won't even try, but here's a website that might help with a few pointers on what you're about to attempt. They've detailed the engine and compartment without taking the engine out. Here's the link: http://www.karmustang.com/engdetailing1.htm
 

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You could just patch the hole with new metal - that's what i would do if it is not in a noticable area. If the other rust areas are weak you should do it right the first time. Replace the apron or patch it if you can.
As far as the exhaust manifolds... you can have them blasted and paint them but it will eventually burn off. I know there's a POR15 paint you can get but don't know if that holds up either. You'll have to get them ceramic coated to keep them looking great.
 

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Andy,
I had the same rust on my fender apron and fixed it with POR patch. I was able to smooth it out and it is barely noticeable. Took about 15 minutes.
 

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Cut and patch but the best is remove the whole panel and replace (which means you have to take the whole front sheet metal off).
 

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If you decide the replace the front inner fender apron, you don't have to remove the front sheetmetal. Check out the "tech" section of my Web site to see how I did it without even removing the fenders.

On the exhaust manifolds, I would suggest just scrubbing them with a wire brush so they have an even rust color, rather than the splotchiness on there now.

While you're at it, remove the shocks and paint them (red, blue, white, or some other color that contrasts with black), along with the shock plates and shock tower braces. You'll be amazed at how much better they look.
 

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I think patching it will just be sealing up a bigger problem lurking underneath. If you dont' go ahead and remove the fenders now you might consider at least finding some small openings to them and spraying in some 3M Rust Fighter or oil to at least slow it down.

I have one small bit of rust coming up in the same as your front driver's side in the pic. I am debating which of the two approaches above to do this winter. If its relatively easy to pull the front sheet metal off I will probably do that and nip the problem in the bud.

Good Luck in whatever you decide to do!
BTW, nice signature pic!
 

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That is a big rust area! All them spot welds in one area is a problem it seems. I am grinding the areas out ( using die grinder and carbide bits) and welding patches in. But, I don't have shock towers anymore, so it is a cosmetic issue only for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
For right now I want to avoid ripping too much apart. If I could patch it somehow to slow down or inhibit rust formation, that would be great. Like I said when I decide to pull the engine for work, then I'll go to town and do whatever I have to do to repair everything properly. But for now I just want to spruce it up a little and get the engine bay at least looking half way decent.
 

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In that case, you might want to follow basketcase's suggestion and go with the POR15 patch, which is a putty version of their product. If those rust spots have broken through I'd use them as access points to spray in some 3M Rust Fighther (p/n 008892) before you patch.
 

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For the manifolds, I have had surprising luck with plain old Rustoleum BBQ paint (black). As I've posted, I tried using some fancy (read: $$) header paint, but the rust came right through. Leave is to "roadracer" and the VMF - recommended the BBQ paint and my Tri-Ys have looked presentable ever since.....Best of all it's available everywhere for $5. BTW, I brushed it on while the headers were still installed. You might want to hit 'em with a wire brush to knock off any loose rust/scale, then heat them up to drive off any moisture before painting..... Good luck ! Dickson
 

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i have my engine compartment almost disassembled to do the same thing you're doing. i also have the exact same rust problems. i bought a repop inner fender apron and a new battery tray. i'm going to use my plasma cutter to cut out just enough of the new fender apron to repair the hole under the battery tray. i'm then going to use the top lip of the replacement apron to cut out patches to repair the the other inner aprons. i'm going to look at doug67's website to see how he made these repairs withoug removing the fenders.
 
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